Ready Seal on Cedar.

[jbruno 14]

3 years ago I used RS on my PT front porch and it still looks pretty good. So I started using RS all the time. It looks greta on all my PT that I did last year and the yaer before, but it's not looking too hot on one of my Cedar jobs.

my main concern is a deck I'm re-staining this year, it was just cedar flooring, and it looked great last spring when I did it, but it faded pretty good. It is sun drenched, and has no shade cover. the homeowner also do a lot ofgpartying on the thing. He wasn't concerned at all that it needed to be re-done, but I'm worried because I just did a cedar pool deck this year and don't want to have to go back next year...

[Everett Abrams 501]

Hey Bruno!

One of the best features of using Ready Seal and other parafinic oil based products is the maintenance feature. It really does not need to be stripped on reapplications. It is a light wash and recoat. The problem in todays market is that to meet VOC compliance many of the reformulations are more film forming than ever before. This creates many problems for the contractor who is trying to build a business and looking for repeat customers. The "real" key to choosing a sealer is how user friendly is it for later visits and reapplications. While longevity is a very important characteristic for both contractors and customers, it is my opinion, that what is best for the wood and continued maintence is the most important over longevity. There are ways to set this perception from the first meeting so that expectations between you and the customer are in line. Many of the products out there on the market do not perform as they once did and recoats leave less than desirable results. Since there is no one size fits all product, I believe you are using one of the best available. My advice would be to sell a discounted maintenance plan, if you aren't already.

[JFife 14]

Bruno,

..couple things:

1) I don't feel cedar holds its color as long as PT for various reason. IMO

2) What color was it? Assuming you know the lighter color fade faster.

3) Could the moisture content have been wrong?? this would lead to premature fading.

Everett is dead-on in regards to maintenance.

[jbruno 14]

Thanks Everett, and John.

The color was Dark Red, and I know the wood was dry enough, but it didn't hold as well as I thought it would. Maybe I'll ask Pierce next time I order some.

My customer wasn't at all upset about recoating it, but I guess I'm worried about my newest customer I just did with DR on Cedar. She already has asked for touch ups on the 'lighter' spots. I explained how each piece of wood is different, and that semi-trans stain doesn't give a uniform look. I'm also worried because it's around a pool deck.

But I totally agree with the maintenance plan, but I gues I was alittle shocked about having to do it on cedar and not on PT yet???

I used SW waterborne on a deck this year because I couldn't get a dry day and the people had been waiting a while, but I'm concerned how well that will hold up in the North East climate also.

p.s. do you guys spray any RS and if so are you using an airless or a decker (deckster) I'm looking into buying a sprayer, but if I use other stains, I want to be able to spray them.

[JFife 14]

...You really need both types. I've tried using an airless with RS, and even with a huge tip it still atomizes too much. Those TJet tips work the best, though I've just started using them under the tutelage of Peirce. Still trying to find the best way to build a portable Shurflo type, as I don't like the Deckster. For airless, something in the range of a Graco 395Ultra or a Titan 440 is your best bet. I use airless for all other stains.

[RPetry 564]

James,

Was this new cedar? Sanded or defelted cedar? Cedar can be a problem for any semi-transparent oil based stain.

With Ready Seal, the best method I have found on a new job with cedar is to get a medium application on, let it penetrate overnight, and put another light application of stain on the next day or soon thereafter.

I use a Decker 5'er for application of Ready Seal, its made by a company called Pump Tech I think. Sorry, out of the office but I know that Tom Vogel of ACR Products carries them. It is the most valuable piece of equipment I own and in 3 years has never seen anything through the pump execept Ready Seal stains.

IMO, Ready Seal is much to "thin" a consistancy for an airless. They're good for thicker stains, paints, etc, but would not even try to use one for a thin paraffinic oil.

[jbruno 14]

Thanks Rick and John,

Both Cedar jobs are 'old' cedar, the pool deck I cleaned and prepped 2 years ago and the hoemowner put cabots on it. This year they had me do the entire job (strip and stain/ they picked DR). The other deck was a strip off of Behr, then a staining of RS.

But I also think RS is too thin with an airless, so I may be contacting Tom Vogel about the decker... does it come dc, or is it all battery?

[RPetry 564]

James,

One of the problems I have found with cedar is getting enough stain into the wood. Though soft in constitution, cedar is pretty dense. If dealing with a pool area, chems from the pool water could also have some affect on the stain.

The Pump Tech is a continuous running pump, unlike a Shurflo. You can adjust the PSI on the unit, I run mine between 35 - 45 PSI for Ready Seal. Along with the 50' flexible feed hose, make sure to get the adjustable gun. This has a thumbwheel adjustment near the trigger, and you can adjust the volume of stain flow without removing your trigger hand. Works just great when staining exterior wood.

As far as I know, the unit is only 12 volt. Get a deep cycle, marine type battery. The pump will run all week on a single charge. Search on this site for "Pump Tec" or "Pump Tech", cannot remember the correct name. I posted some other info a while ago to another question.

It is truly an indispensible piece of equipment if you are using Ready Seal stains.

[jbruno 14]

gracias

[PressurePros 248]

Orrrrrr, if you don't want to spend $500 I could tell you where you can get turbine driven electric HVLP sprayers for about $90 (and the answer is not Home Depot). I have used them with paraffinic oil sealers (Baker's Grey Away), Wood Tux, and Cabot's solids without ever changing a tip. Very little overspray, no excess atomization and no hose to clean out (only air runs through the hose)

[Ron G. 14]

Orrrrrr, if you don't want to spend $500 I could tell you where you can get turbine driven electric HVLP sprayers for about $90 (and the answer is not Home Depot). I have used them with paraffinic oil sealers (Baker's Grey Away), Wood Tux, and Cabot's solids without ever changing a tip. Very little overspray, no excess atomization and no hose to clean out (only air runs through the hose)

Ken, Iam interested. Thanks.

[RCBill 14]

Here is Tom Vogels site.

http://www.acrproducts.com/

[jbruno 14]

Orrrrrr, if you don't want to spend $500 I could tell you where you can get turbine driven electric HVLP sprayers for about $90 (and the answer is not Home Depot). I have used them with paraffinic oil sealers (Baker's Grey Away), Wood Tux, and Cabot's solids without ever changing a tip. Very little overspray, no excess atomization and no hose to clean out (only air runs through the hose)

Do tell.