help with trailer setup

[TalcottPressureWashing 14]

HI all I just got my pressure washer 10:45 pm this very evening matter of fact! it's a 16 hp vanguard 5 gpm a min machine cold water .

My trailer is a 6x12 enclosed single axle, I have a 250 gallon water tank that is going in in there also my question is what is the best way to set this up in regards to location of tank and PW?

Also this machine has a general pump ts2021 that according to the info I can find is rated at 4.5 to 5.6 gpm how can I verify how many gpm I'm getting and how would you adjust it ?

I know that they make gauges to test psi just not sure on how to judge gpm

Thanks in advance

Lyn

[Dan Stapleton 14]

To answer your last question, With the machine running wide open, spray water in a 5gal bucket for one minute. If you fill it in one minute your machine puts out 5 gpm.

[TalcottPressureWashing 14]

LOL thanks Dan that what i kinda figured I was gonna have to do.

but I didn't know if there was a more hightech way to do it

[Keth 15]

Congrats on the new washer. Most often I see these setup with the PW unit mounted near the back door so the exhaust can vent with the tank in the middle of the traiiler for balance. If you have a side door the reels can go there for curbside deployment.

Where did you get the PW from?

[dgold42 14]

If it is I can tell you alot about this machine. Check the pump and see if it's a ts2021 or a ts1011, ts1015.

Dan

[TalcottPressureWashing 14]

I found it on Craigslist for 675.00. the Man I bought the unit from had gotten out of the business about a year ago because of back problems. this was his back up machine. It doesn't have a hour meter but he estimated well under 200 hours on this machine. His primary was a hot water unit he had already sold.

I felt the price was excellent considering the fact that 4gpm directdrive portable units that look like they have been beat to death are going for 500-800 dolllars . this one is belt drive and electric start

[TalcottPressureWashing 14]

according to the tag on top it is a T series 47 TS-2021 general pump

Any info that anyone can give me on this pump would be well appreciated.

[JohnW 14]

Hi Lynn,

Glad to see you were able to get a washer finally! Sounds like you're ready to get in business with that thing. I found this on the web:

http://pressurewash.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=48&products_id=215 or you could try www.generalpumps.com and look it up there probably.

Good luck Lynn, and if you ever need anything, Philip Doolittle and I are just a county away.

Take care,

John W.

Superior Pressure Washing

Fayetteville, GA

[Keth 15]

The TS 2021 is a workhorse that can really move some water. That is a great pump at a great price. Congrats.

[dgold42 14]

HI Lyn,

The TS2021 is a really good pump. I could be wrong but I think it's the most widely used pump in our industry.

I had one for about 5 years and had great results. The machine I resently purchased was advertised as having a TS2021 but came with a TS1011. In the end I got the problem straightened out.

The machine I bought is virtually the same as yours and so far I happy with it. Does your machine have a 2 gallon float tank?

By the way, you got a really good price. Even if you had to replace the pump within a year it would still be worth the price.

I recently purchased all new equiment e-250, pwer, weather guard shelving, shurflo setup etc. I'll be posting pics shortly and hopefully they can help you find the best layout for your needs. It's a van mounted setup.

If you have any questions feel free to send me an email.

Dan

[Paul Kassander 26]

The TS2021 is the most common in type industry, or so they say. It is an exellent pump you will be very happy with it, I know I have been. Plus the repair parts a very inexpensive and widely available.

As far as setting up your trailer you will want to mount the tanks over the axle as much as possible or slighlty forward of center. Put some slide blocks on the sides of the tank to keep it from movinb and strap it down. Make sure you maintain adequate tounge weight on the trailer, but not too much. If the weight is too far back the trailer will sway back and forth when going down the road. If you have a side door I would put your storage area in the front for your excess equipment and supplies which will help to maintain that weight in front. The machine is best mounted in the rear of the trailer for adequate airflow for cooling and access. If you can, use an exhaust diverter to get the exhaust out of the trailer and away from the machine so it is not sucking it back into the air cleaner. Then mount your hose reel and chem tanks and away you go. Good price on that machine by the way.

[jbruno 14]

here's a few pics on how my trailer was first set -up, now it's a mess! LOL

I put my reels out the back door for 2 reasons, 1. because I had a side door that I would be going in and out of to get chems and supplies and the sorts, so I wanted that clear. 2. I try to back into each driveway, this way I'm not losing distance in my hose stretches. and If I don stay in the street, it works just as well, No matter what side of the road you're on.

[TalcottPressureWashing 14]

One other question on my pump they have the supply and the pressure washer connection on the same side is this necessary or could i move the unloader to the other side of the pump so that it would feed out the pressure hose straight out of the back of the trailer?

[TalcottPressureWashing 14]

anone have any ideas on my pump question?

[Paul Kassander 26]

It makes no difference which side the inlet and outlet are located. Just remember the top 3/8 FPT openings are the high pressure side and the bottom 1/2" are the inlet or low pressure side. Move them around before you mount your machine for your ease in servicing later. What I usually do is remote mount my unloader off of the pump and use a jumper hose to it. I have found that they last longer because they are not subject to the vibration of the pump and motor.

[TalcottPressureWashing 14]

Thanks for the reply Paul, That makes me feel a little better because the way it is set up now the inlet and unloader are on the same side and if i mounted it this way it would have my pressure hose coming out towards the back of the trailer and then having to curve around. would prefer not to do that to reduce any stress on the fittings.

Also could you explain a little more about remote mounting the unloader right now it is hooked on to about a 4-5 in piece of pipe.

And just to clarify i can have the unloader coming out one side of the pump and the inlet coming in on the other side and everything will be good?

I know this may sound like some silly questions but i really don't want to screw this thing up

[Neil_Asheville 114]

Good morning, Lyn. I know where you are...setting up your first rig can feel a bit overwhelming if you don't have anyone local to go to to show exactly what they mean. I'll see if I can add a bit...

Remote mounting of the unloader means using an unloader block that mounts directly to your pw frame. I purchased mine from ACR Products. In the image i've attached, the unloader block is the square brass block with the unloader (k7) mounted on top of it. An unloader block is just a solid brass block with a 90 degree 3/8ths line drilled through it. Both ports are 3/8ths female pipe thread (FPT). This type of setup gives you more flexibility on where and how to mount unloader, you can avoid any odd in/out or wrong direction hose angles with brass 90 degree elbows. As paul said, it prevents you from having a heavy unloader hanging off your pump head. The solid mount prevents vibrations.

If you don't already have a high pressure hose reel and 200' of hp line, you should budget this in. If you do already, your hp line will come off your pressure side of the unloader to your hose reel, so you shouldn't have to worry about any stress on that connection if it's a bad angle.

Here's my schematic in the picture. It's a good setup for my needs. Supply hose from source > inline filter at tank > 90degree brass elbow > drilled hole through tank > hudson float valve inside top of poly tank > pvc outlet port > pvc ball valve > pvc T junction with 1" clear tubing going towards back of trailer with another ball valve on end to fill buckets, wash hands, etc. > other side of T is supply side 1/2" polybraid goes through inline sediment filter > bottom inlet of pump head > hp outlet of pump brass street elbow > 2' high pressure jump hose with QC's on each end > inline pressure gauge > inlet side of unloader > unloader mounted directly to block > hp line from unloader with QC socket > 10' hp jump hose to inlet swivel on hose reel > 200' hp hose on reel > heavy duty ball valve with swivel > gun. You'll see the black 1/4" line coming from the unloader, that's the bypass back to top of poly tank.

Call me anytime. Hope this helps.

/neil

[Paul Kassander 26]

Thats a good setup, well thought out. what is that piece on the back of the pump by the sight glass? Is that a support bracket to the guard?

[Neil_Asheville 114]

Yes, Paul. It's spring-tensioned to the belt drive guard.

[Neil_Asheville 114]

Actually, my supply hose is 3/4" polybraid from tank to pump, not 1/2".

/neil

[The Cleaner 14]

HI all I just got my pressure washer 10:45 pm this very evening matter of fact! it's a 16 hp vanguard 5 gpm a min machine cold water .

My trailer is a 6x12 enclosed single axle, I have a 250 gallon water tank that is going in in there also my question is what is the best way to set this up in regards to location of tank and PW?

Also this machine has a general pump ts2021 that according to the info I can find is rated at 4.5 to 5.6 gpm how can I verify how many gpm I'm getting and how would you adjust it ?

I know that they make gauges to test psi just not sure on how to judge gpm

Thanks in advance

Lyn

The TS2021 is a very common pump which puts out 4.5 gpm.You should mount your unloader on a block in a very accesible area.If you are pulling water from a tank you will eventually have problems with your unloader.

U can mount the unloader on a block with a swivel type fitting which makes it easy to remove and service.Put your tank over your axle and make sure you use a good mounting strap for the tank.Also make sure that your exhaust has a means of escape out a side door or even vent it thru the roof.The best tip orifice size for that pump is a 5.0,and if you want your pump to last a good long time make sure you run a line back to the tank off your unloader which will keep your pump flowing with cool water when the pump is running and your not working !!Just my 2cent's

[TalcottPressureWashing 14]

Hi all well I think I've gotten most of the stuff to hook everything up but The problem that i'm still working on is how to mount the tank.

It is a 250 gallon tank with the metal cage around it . If anyone has any ideas on how to do this I would appreciate it. Neil it looks like the one you have , I looked at the pics you posted and it looks like you just have screws running threw the bottom of it. I could be way off on this but I sure could use some advice.

Oh yes and to add some humor to your day.... Lastnight after i had bought some stuff for it I decided i gotta try this thing out and see how much more water it puts out as opposed to my lil 2.5gpm homedepot unit well i hooked up the water to it and fired up the motor and realized about 2 seconds later that in my haste i forgot to hook anything up to the bypass so lets just say I got a nice shower as i rushed to cut it off!

Have a great day everyone

Lyn Talcott

[Paul Kassander 26]

Better now than at your first job.

When you hook up the tank you will want to put some type of blocking around the base to prevent it from sliding around when you are driving. Either some angle iron or some wood bolted to the floor tight to the tank. Then make some heavy duty ubolts out of some threaded rod and run them through the floor to the frame or make a big plate so they cannot pull back through the floor. Finally get some 2" rachet strap tie downs and strap the tank down to the floor. Now the tank won't bounce around or slide around when you are driving. Hope that helps you can call if you have any questions.

[TalcottPressureWashing 14]

OK finaaly getting ready to bolt all this stuff down, I know its been a while but had a lot of family issues since last post sickness,and death of grandmother.

My question is when mounting the pressure washer should i use rubber feet for vibration or mount it directly to the floor of the trailer? once again thanks for all the help.

Lyn Talcott

678-410-8804

[Paul Kassander 26]

I would mount it directly to the floor, you dont want any movemet of the machine base during transport. The slightest movement can cause it to break loose. Besides the machine itself should have some vibration dampeners built into it if they are needed, (the good ones will).