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John T

Cold water for Commercial flat work

Question

I'm debating on setting up one of my rigs with a cold water power washer that pumps out around 6 gpm. This would be used for The surface cleaner and flat work only. For Gum the Hot water PW on my trailer would be used for that. This would be for a 2 man set-up. One for the flat work(Cold water) and the other one for Gum removal(Hot water).

Do you think the Cold water will clean as well as the hot water for commercial flat work when using the surface cleaner??

Thanks

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with out a doubt, no. There are times when I get ahead of myself and start cleaning with the surfacer before the water gets too hot and you can see the difference from cold, to hot water on my cleaning path.

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OK even though I pretty much knew this I wanted to see if any of you guys could prove any different.

It looks like I'm going to have to part with this Cold water Powerwasher I have in my garage since I already have two others for Residential use. Its a shame because this PW has a kick butt 18hp Honda engine on it and I can't think of anything I can do with it.

Look to see it soon for sale somewhere on the net.

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I used to use cold water on residential flatwork. It is as you say "allright". I won't go back hot is quicker, easier and it cleans better with less damage. Ive had to hold on a stain alot longer with cold water. Just turn up the heat and if you use dual lance wands you can lower the pressure and apply more heat and clean even faster. GPM's and heat mix well for any concrete.

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Guest rfitz

With residential or commercial cleaning, , I have heat now and am maybe getting rid of it, after testing alot of cleaning with hot cold and the right chems, the right chems will get the job done 50% of the time, you just have to ask yourself is 50% of your work worth the added room it takes up, the added expense etc.. When cleaning patios and driveways this year, the only time I needed heat to clean was when I had a customer that spilled a turkey deep fryer on their patio, and the grease was 1 inch thick, other than that I have removed all oils, grease stains, dirt mold etc.. with the right sodium hydroxide product, remember after 180 degrees your chemicals stop working, the heat will kill the chemicals from working at all, and 180 degrees is hot.... and you cant use heat in the summer for residential, you will the grass where the hose comes into contact it, also ask any chemist and they will tell you, its not only heat that cleans, its chemicals too, just go wash a deck and crank up your heater to just 180 degrees and watch the damage done to the wood after it dries, I disagree about heat on wood... Hot Heat

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Rob, I don't know where you get your info from, I am not going to agree or disagree, but son, you have alot to learn. that is ok, this is the place to learn, but you better keep your mind open to suggestions and ideas or you will be left in the dust.

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Guest rfitz

Maybe in missouri in the summer, because of our heat and humidity, the water in my tank is already 150 degrees, and that is why I havent needed heat all summer,? anyhow, I guess as a safety feature, a hot washer is always best to have on hand, than not at all.....

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The water in your tank won't get any hotter because of humidity. I have a hard time believing the water in your tank gets to 150 degrees unless you keep the van shut up in the sun all day, and even then I doubt it gets that hot inside....Hell, I'm in Florida and I doubt you get much hotter or more humid than we do, and I've never had the water in my tank even approach warm, let alone 150 degrees.

That 180 degree threshhold you mentioned where chemicals somehow stop working, is that for all chemicals?

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Guest rfitz

I was just joking about the water in my tank getting to 150, just making fun of st. louis summer heat, I think most chems stop working after 180, I think the window is something like 140 to 170 is optimum, for heat to double the strength of soap and chems in general, I think I read that somewhere, but ask a chemist to make sure

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