Stripping new water based stain?

[RPetry 564]

Just got back from looking at a beautiful 2 yr. old red mahogany deck. A painting co. applied some water based stain only 9 days ago and the customer does not like it.

To be honest, I think it looks ok. Kind of mottled, but not too bad.

The customer is going to try and get the manufacturer, product, and color of this stain from the painting company. If it would help, I'll pass along that info when I receive it. Any hints on the best, most effective manner in stripping new water based?

The builder did a great job. All deck boards are attached from underneath, the gaps are very narrow but of identical width, and some good joinery and detail work on the posts and handrail. This is real nice wood.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Pretty deck! :)

Beth

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Water based and possibly containing acrylic resins. I would use HD-80.

Rod!~

[Jarrod 22]

HD80 full strength!

[RPetry 564]

Rod & Jarrod,

Thanks for the guidance. When you say full strength, 8 oz/gal or stronger? Once and if I get the particular stain product used, I'll repost with the info. Never tried to strip a waterbourne stain less than maybe 18 months old and only a handful of them.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

That is almost too beautiful deck to touch isn't it?.. I see that water puddling and wonder if that will go away same as the RS says theirs will. I would not want it to stay that way thats for sure.

[Jarrod 22]

8 oz per gallon will do.

[John T 744]

Personally I think that Home owner should just let that stain stay on and redo the job when the deck needs it mainly because Mahogany decks and IPE decks never last that long with the stain looking good...But then again its good to have money like these people obviously do to have you redo it.

[RPetry 564]

John,

Thats my gut feeling and was relayed to the customer. I think the wood looks ok but then again, its not my deck. Told her it will be easier to service in a year when the water based stain is weathered.

Due to about an inch of rain yesterday, it was difficult to judge the stain job and coloring. This house is only 1/4 mi. from my home so I'm going to stop back for another look when dry.

Kevin, you said:

I see that water puddling and wonder if that will go away same as the RS says theirs will. I would not want it to stay that way thats for sure.

Can you say this in another way, I have no idea what you mean.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Rod & Jarrod,

Thanks for the guidance. When you say full strength, 8 oz/gal or stronger? Once and if I get the particular stain product used, I'll repost with the info. Never tried to strip a waterbourne stain less than maybe 18 months old and only a handful of them.

Also, talk to Tom about 633-HF, add it to HD-80 mixed @ 4oz/gal with about a 1/2 cup/gal added to it, sit back and smile. It does smell like a warm beer to me though. Sort of like waking up on a bar floor.:whoops:

Rod!~

[RPetry 564]

Rod,

I think I still have some 633-HF around, will have to look. Do have 45 lbs. of ACR's 760 NaOH stripper, so if I can't get the customer to wait a year, will use that.

Waking up on a bar floor, HAH! Been decades. Had a friend in Steamboat Springs, Co. fall asleep outside in the dead of winter against the outside back wall of the Tugboat Saloon. Found him the next morning still passed out and covered with about 10 inches of fresh snow.

[Deck Guy 14]

JUst out of curiosity, what color do they want? It looks pretty much like mahogany should now. It's beautiful.

[CDR17 14]

Tell the customer to wait for 30 days some treatments need 30 days to see the true color.

[RPetry 564]

Larry,

The wood is red mahogany which does have a natural light red coloring to it. If you look at the last picture of the post, underneath the handrail, something similar to that. But man, this wood is just real high quality. Looks like the contractor hand selected boards for grain, trueness, etc. 2 yrs. ago, the cost of the deck was ~60K.

She saw the wood wet after the painting co. had pressure washed it. You know how hardwoods look then, their natural color but a bit darker and deeper. I believe that is what she is looking for.

Charlie,

Maybe, I don't know squat about water based stains. But the finish is very brownish now, nowhere close to the natural color of red mahogany.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Maybe, I don't know squat about water based stains. But the finish is very brownish now, nowhere close to the natural color of red mahogany.

Me neither but I'de say overall the color reminds me of a beautiful non-gloss walnut gunstock...

Kevin, you said:

Quote:

I see that water puddling and wonder if that will go away same as the RS says theirs will. I would not want it to stay that way thats for sure.

Can you say this in another way, I have no idea what you mean.

The Ready Seal FAQ perhaps explains it best:

"Why does product stop beading water?

After the product has completely soaked in, the beading will stop. This does not mean that it has stopped performing. Ready Seal is made to spread water out so it will dry up as quickly as possible. It is still keeping water out even though it is not beading water. "

...Water beading to show that something is sealed is not all it's cracked up to be. On vehicles if the level is not just right you can get mineral spotting but most like it. On concrete or vct if it is too much you can get slip and fall easier due to water taking longer to dry. And in case of some decks in some parts of the country I imagine that same applies as well as possability of stains forming around the drying water areas.. Almost have to sqweegie it off if it don't dry fast enough.

Is called surface tension and can relate to slip resistance. The odd thing is that with some sealer manufactures (like found at big box) they apparently don't care too much about such.. I can tell you my own horror stories as it relates to this but I don't like to talk bad about products if I can help it...

[RPetry 564]

Kevin,

Ok, got 'ya. You are right about RS, the stain kind of "sheets" rain instead of beading or puddling. Not sure it makes any difference on wood as long as it is keeping the moisture out of the wood.

What is vct? I'm a dummy.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

VCT is your standard everyday vinyl composition tile/resilient tile.

When you say "sheet's" that is what you get with top coatings like on cars or vinyl tile. On sealed concrete, brick and/or your various commercial clay tiles installed in restaurant's it is often best to be straight penetration minded with no beading. However, once you go to film forming on surfaces you can still have wide variety in the sheeting ability and hence dry times. The more the film spreads out evenly the better. In wood the RS folks apparently understand the idea well and want it to act similar to sealed concrete. The two surfaces are very similar in this aspect. With concrete it can be sealed (protected from moisture harm and some measurable amount of moisture penetration) yet is often interprited by onlookers that it is not.. Standards for concrete are about 2% actual moisture pass through..wood I unsure of but I know we want it to breath and spread its moisture as well as outside moisture around so that the problems I sighted don't occure and also I imagine so that warping is minimized...This is not to imply it is ok for water to pass straight through either product like a seive (sp?) but that the % of absorbtion is controlled at some level for various surfaces.

An example of how some of this applies can be experienced in going through the process of health inspectors going through their motions of inspecting meat fridges on slabs. To them, if it don't bead up then it aint sealed to the fluids passing through. Rather than taking chancethatitis truly sealed and all the liquid will evaporate they go the other extreme of forcing a top coat. They have reason for everything in this world I suppose.. but for most part many of these safe practices are just copied amongst counties for sake of saving money on their own education or research into the matter..

[Deck Guy 14]

I see what you're saying about the color now. I helped build a couple wooden boats out of mahogany and it definitely has a bit of a red tint with golden grain in areas. We actually used luan plywood in some areas (the foredeck), which is a good match when stained with the same stain. Can you say 17 coats of clear laquer with wet sanding between each one??

Still, I think they are crazy to have it re-done now.

[RPetry 564]

Kevin,

You are either a walking encyclopedia or know what you are talking about. More than suspect the latter. Please stick around on TGS, us woodies need people like you.

Larry,

I agree. If it was my wood, I'd be happy for a season. I like the coloring of the deck. But it is not my deck. Yesterday, I advised waiting for a year then let me at it.

[CDR17 14]

So what product was put on the deck?

[RPetry 564]

Charlie,

I do not know. The customer does not know. She is waiting for information from the original contractor, a painting co.

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

Also, talk to Tom about 633-HF, add it to HD-80 mixed @ 4oz/gal with about a 1/2 cup/gal added to it, sit back and smile. It does smell like a warm beer to me though. Sort of like waking up on a bar floor.:whoops:

Rod!~

Rod,

I looked at ACRs website and found a product called 633 HP under woodcare chems. Is this it? Is it a thickener similar to np9?

Thanks,

Scott

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Rod,

I looked at ACRs website and found a product called 633 HP under woodcare chems. Is this it? Is it a thickener similar to np9?

Thanks,

Scott

The one I get is labeled 633-ADD. He may have a different version of the same thing in stock. Call Tom and ask him. He can explain his products better than I. As far as thickening, it does not do that, only boosts the strippers surfactant to help strip other types of products. I add an alkaline foaming agent to add a minimal vertical cling ability.

Rod!~