Sure-Flow Setup

[Guest rfitz]

Ron, I would never use this setup for house washing, only decks, I use my downstreamer for washing houses,, and sometimes that is too strong...

[Cleveland Mobile 14]

Hey Rob.....

I saw your unit and it is great.....need more chem? Just have an extra 6 gallon container. Most people dont think of filling those 20 gallon containers. In a van that can be a real pain. Seeing your entire unit being built at PressureTek, I'm hoping this summer I can take the trip to St. Louis just to see it in action.

Most the people I see here either have a trailer or a box truck. I have had trailers....never could get use to backing them in....and now with the box truck I run into problems with wires for residential. I personally think a van is the best way to go for residential work but it does require accounting for the low ceiling and limited space. And I think you've done just that......great ideas.

Andy

[Aplus 525]

For deck work, I prefer my portable sureflow setup. The reasons are simple.....I can adjust my chems exactly how I need them for each deck. There is a six gallon pail attached in the photo. Many times I have to mix up more than one pail. I use portable cold water units for decks, and it's not big deal for me to move my cart assembly.

I would however, like a permanent mounted setup in my trailer with the hot water skid. Since everything else is on reels, it would be conveniant to have chemical application that way also. I would still mix my chems as needed for each job because I feel it's safer to transport around granuals and powders in separate sealed containers, rather than liquids than are more prone to spills and gaseous fume issues.

[beyoungsr 14]

Tony,

I beleive I read that you are using air line hose on your shurflow.

How does it do in cold weather?

Does it unroll and roll up ok?

[Aplus 525]

BE,

The hose you see in my pic is Good Year air hose. I bought it from a Harbour Freight store, and it was a higher priced hose. It has held up very well, and rolls up fine in moderately cold weather. I've never used it during weather below, maybe 40 degrees, so I can't say how it would behave then.

I use red or orange hose for my chem line so I can readily distinguish it from high pressure hose, since both are 3/8". When too many hoses are on the ground they can tangle up like a pile of wet snakes.

You can see an extra pump mounting plate I have prepared on it to accept a second pump, so two of us can spray at the same time. That comes in handy on big decks, or on super hot days when the chems evaporate and dry so quickly. I used a large deep cycle battery for that reason, so I have plenty of capacity.

A potential of four hoses on the ground means I need to know at a glance which is which. I looked over at HD and Lowes to check out their 3/8 hose offerings, and the air hose just seemed to fit the bill. I mainly spray HD-80 and citric acid through it, and there is not any apparent damage after two very busy seasons.

Hope this helps.

[beyoungsr 14]

Tony,

Thank you for the reply.

I have made a similar cart and am in the process of buying a new shur flo pump for it. Lasted 14 months.

I use it mostly for SH. Will add additional ball valves this time for flushing of the pump and additional chem use.

Do you think a hose reel would hold up for this type of use?

Looked at a lot of your deck pics today. You do nice work!

[Cleveland Mobile 14]

Lot of great ideas here. I have always kept the stripper/ cleaner/ and brightener in the truck and run them through the injector. All of them are strong enough that they work fine at a 10 to 1 ratio....as long as the deck is against vinyl siding......aluminum or wood siding i have to be careful with and thats when i use a pump sprayer. I can guarantee that I will have a sureflow unit like that this year. Have to be prepared for everything.

And by the way......just something to look out for.....there are some vinyl sidings out there that are made from recycled vinyl. You can regognize these because the color isnt all the way through. If you bend back a panel the underside is black. Any soap or stripper will remove the paint. Sad part is...at least here in Cleveland....this siding is used on the more expensive newer homes. I had a nightmare with it while washing a deck....just wanted to pass that on.

Have a great holiday

Andy

[Paul B. 523]

I'm curious to find out what stripper you are using.

Must be very strong concentrate if you can dilute it 1:10.

[Guest rfitz]

Paul,

Iv tried using strippers with downstreaming and x-jetting, and results werent that great, especially on harder stains to strip, so I had to use a pump up which is a complete drag, so that is why I am now going with a sure flow, at least my experience has been my strippers like HD80 had to be full strength,

and then some, in order for them to work effectively, and dwell time of 30 minutes to one hour, but what has really helped me out was first washing the deck with a lite bleach and strong soap solution, to remove dirt, mold etc.. so my strippers wouldnt have to work as hard, after I washed them with that, then I applied my strippers when all it had to do was attack the finish, and nothing else and that worked great...

[Mike Cappa 14]

Andy makes his own stripper that works great. He knows every trick in the book. He is a little old though, I think he started doing decks before trees were invented, lol.

[Paul B. 523]

Mike,

That is old...but then there is a lot to be learned from old folks.

Rob,

Shur-flo is definitely a speedier method than the pump-ups. - I purchased our first one a couple of years ago and have added several since then. I'm looking to add one for roof-cleaning during the next couple of months.

I agree about washing prior to stripping however, if the surface doesn't dry fast it adds time or is not dry when you apply the stripper it dilutes the stripper.

[Cleveland Mobile 14]

Before trees were invented.......ha ha ha......actually I do mix all my own chemicals.....that is why I can dillute 10 to 1. On solid stains I do put the stripper on straight. And there is no "dwell time"......wax on...wax off.......(ancient chinese secret).

Actually I would be happy to share all my secrets.....if you want to call them that. I like to refer to them as baptisms of fire over the years.....learning by mistakes.

And Mike.....was that you I saw on tv giving a hard time to all those people in whoville.....taking their xmas stuff?

Andy

[Mike Cappa 14]

Yeah, I think that was me, lol. I was the one with the little dog.

[Paul B. 523]

Please do share some of your woodcare secrets. We're all here to learn and share.

[Aplus 525]

Let me share a little secret about Shurflo pumps.....Buy it from Northern tool, and for an extra $7 they will give you a full two year warranty!

Not bad eh? Actually, the only problem I've ever had is the pressure switch failing. You can temporarily bypass the pressure switch to finish up the job, but be careful because the pump will keep pumping and could blow the hose or the fittings loose, and spray the chems all over, at a fairly high pressure.

I keep a whole spare pump in each trailer, because it is easier/faster to change a pump than it is to change the pressure switch, at least when you're on the jobsite. The problem is that replacement pressure switches cost over half as much as a complete brand new pump.

BE,

I've though about adding a hose reel, but I think it might just add more weight than it's worth. Notice how I just wrap the hose around the cart. It's fast, easy, and doesn't add any weight.

Thanks for the compliments on the decks. Actually, decks are my specialty, and I take great pride in doing each and every one as best as it can be done. I have personally restored more than 600 decks over the years, and have never given less than my all on each and every one.

[beyoungsr 14]

Tony,

Ever thought about adding a small brass plate on the railing referancing your company.

Deck finished by A+Plus

Address

phone #

Something nice though not cheesey.

Bet the custumer would give you the nod!

[Aplus 525]

BE,

Yes I have thought about it. I was thinking something about the size of a business card would be just about right.

However, I haven't come across anything that strikes me as being right. Brass would tarnish, I thought briefly about something like the material used for making name plates in offices, but that might look cheesy.

Does anyone have any ideas about the materials etc.. for making advertising nameplates for a deck?

[Atlantic Power Washing 14]

I would try using painted aluminum.

[Dale 16]

The Flood Co. has those in aluminum 2" x 6" .. one side is silk screened with the co. logo and a paint brush pulling a blank blue band 1"x5" giving you a space to add your company info... under that it states "this deck is protected with Flood products Manufacturers of CWF UV....arggg..the other side is blank...brushed aluminum..kinda nice, pre drilled nail holes in the corners..but which ever side you use, you have to come up with a way to add your info. depending on your penmanship you could use a etching pencil or a marker, unfortunately my writing is almost unreadable.lol.

[beyoungsr 14]

Tony,

Tell them when the brass tarnishes it is time for deck service.

[Grant 500]

www.seton.com has a huge selection of custom tags in various materials / colors etc...

[Cleveland Mobile 14]

I went to a local printing shop (printing partners) they had some really nice plates that looked like a wood grain but were made of a plastic type material.

Andy

[Guest rfitz]

I would think since it is wood, wouldnt you use little wood plates, you make yourself with a dremel, or router, and replace every time you do maint. on their deck, if you use a good stain and then varnish it, it should last a long time, and I think would look more professional since we are in the wood biz...? maybe use Ipe or teak, then paint your name, logo, etc.. where you have routered it.... you could mass produce these on a saturday, and make 50 easily...

[Atlantic Power Washing 14]

Impractical...

[R. Williamson 14]

A custom cabinet shop would have a cnc router. You would have to pay a setup charge for the programing, but after that just per piece.