WTW tips

[bigchaz 157]

700 sq foot all horizontal job I just sold with wood tux wet. Stripped the previous finish and brightened

Any tips for the WTW? I learned on my sample tests that it should be really thin. The wood is pine. Planning on using the 18 inch pad for it

Anything I should know or y'all recommend before putting it on?

[Russell Cissell 65]

First time users have a natural tendency to over-apply. Once you get used to working with the high solids content it becomes much easier. That is the number one thing to look out for the first few times you use Wood-Tux.

Wood-Tux is extremely high in pigment and resin solids.

One coat is all you ever need when applying it to slightly damp or dry wood.

There is no need to "saturate" the wood with Wood-Tux. Your spread rate should be 200 square feet or more. Any less than that and you are over applying.

If you are going to use an 18 inch pad, spread the product as much as you can. An 18 inch pad holds a lot of product so you should get a good amount of coverage with each trip to the stain tray.

Since this is your first time applying the product, I would recommend going over the deck with a dry pad when you are finished applying. This will just help insure that if you have any heavy spots, they will be spread out or picked up by the dry pad.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

How about a review hijack..... :)

Got my Honey sample yesterday.... tried it, and must say it sure is nice in many ways. Unlike some say, it is thinner compared to some others I been trying. It penetrates decent and seems to have high amount of pigment. Sits on surface abit more then some and but looks very even and highly pigmented. Very similar to Penofin or Cabbot Aussie on how it flows and spreads but doesn't stink near as bad as Penofin. The Aussie is thinner and I don't think it is geared to last as long. This WTW smells more like a nice interior paint to me. It shows the grain off on both rough or smooth redwood without over darkening it and one coat is way plenty on cedar. I won't mention how the overall look compares to another stain common on this board cause I am almost embarrssed for it at this point.

But speaking about tips..I am all ears and wonder about thinning for lighter color or cross mixing colors...and then interested how it works for people using hvlp..

[bigchaz 157]

The wood im working with is fairly old and probably a bit drier than most

Should I still shoot for 200 or go more for 150?

[Celeste 341]

Stick with the 200 - and don't reapply if you think it's sinking in alot. Made that mistake earlier this year. 200 period :)

Celeste

[MMI Enterprises 289]

About same zact amount that my Peno tests did. Reason for bidding practices hovering around 100 sq.ft per gal is likely due to allowing for two coat with other products or some hecka major overspray.. :)

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

We have begun using an airless paint sprayer in order to limit the application rate and adjust the amount of product we are putting down by making additional passes as the wood will accept it. So far, the results have been very encouraging.

Rod!~

[bigchaz 157]

Yea if the tux starts taking off for me it sounds like airless will be the way to go

[NBT22555 14]

where is the best supply outlet for wood tux

[Celeste 341]

The Sealer Store - Wood Deck Stains and Brick Paver Sealers-Deck and Paver Restoration Services and Sales

or

Extreme Solutions - Extreme Solutions - Quality Restoration Products

[Russell Cissell 65]

You can certainly thin for lighter color if your local VOC regulations permit it. Obviously thinning the product will jeopardize it's service life to some degree. There is also a clear version available for creating half tones while maintaining the resin solids content. You can mix the colors to produce variations along the brown red scale.

Wood-Tux works well with an HVLP spray system.

The Sealer Store does offer contractor discounts along with free shipping. This makes them more price competitive in the northern half of the country. In most cases their turnaround time getting your order out the door is faster as well.

[bigchaz 157]

Finished the job today with the tux. I was nervous about over applying so I actually measured and made sure I used only a gallon for the 200 sq feet.

It was def dark at first but I hung around to see if it would lighten up a bit. It did but when I left after parts of the surface had been sitting for a few hours it was dry to the touch but parts were much darker than others

Will this continue to even out over time? I was expecting that bright gold look that I saw on everyone elses pics, but It was very dark in spots and lighter in others. My application was very even with the pad and going back over it.

[Celeste 341]

Older wood will be darker than some of the "light" decks that you see. The way the color evens out and richens will amaze you though :)

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Species and previously finished (even when stripped) will also play into the final look.

Beth

[jnoden 15]

I have applied it with my deckster a few times and I think it applies better with the pressure at150psi or more. It does put it on fairly heavy though and so I am wondering if I need a different tip for my deckster. I like the cone tip I have (think it is a #6 from Sunbrite) but I am wondering if a different size would work better. Is there anybody who sells the cone tips in different sizes?

[YVPW 20]

With Wood Tux as long as the shiny spots are gone when you leave the job you are good to go. It doesn't matter how much you apply at first as long as those are gone.

[bigchaz 157]

Yea I went ahead and wiped after applying to be sure I didn't have any shiny spots

[CALLTODD 15]

I wish I would have read this last week. I stripped two decks on Mon. Sealed them heavily with WTW on Wed and they are still wet today. Any suggestions?

[Russell Cissell 65]

calltodd

Give me a call on Monday and I will walk you through how to fix that.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I wish I would have read this last week. I stripped two decks on Mon. Sealed them heavily with WTW on Wed and they are still wet today. Any suggestions?

Go back over the deck you have already applied WTW to with mineral spirits to wipe it down. That should take care of it.

You can also add 2 to 4 oz to the gallon of Japan drier (you can get it at a paint store) to add to your 5'er at the initial time of application and see if that helps your cure time.

Beth

[RPetry 564]

Apparently there is a curing problem with one or more recent WTW batches of stain. Have a ipe' sample stained 5 days ago, still wet on the surface. Both cedar and PT samples stained 3 days ago are not wet, but moist and not dried fully on the surface.

I do not care as they are sample boards. But planning on using this 5'er of WTW soon on real paying customer wood. Have been advised by other contractors to try "Japan dryer" as an additive to the WTW.

Has anyone out there done this or used another solution and wish to share results and any hints to get this stain to cure?

[CALLTODD 15]

Thanks Beth,

Russel gave the same advice with the mineral spirits. I should have known that. But I will have to try the "Japan dryer."

[CB works 14]

Rick,

We have added as much as 12 oz or more per 5er and had much better cure times. Still not as fast as the old WTW. It still took more than a day or so to cure, but that was up in the mountains when it was much cooler. I kind of like the control using the japan dryer. When it's cool, just load it up with the stuff, when it's 95 degrees out side, leave it as is and enjoy the extra working time.

Hope this helps,

Christian

[RPetry 564]

Christian,

Thanks for the tip. We a planning on trying WTW on a customer's ipe' later this week. As you may know, ipe' takes very little stain due to the density of the wood. Very little penetration and the stain will be hand rubbed with lambswool.

Would a mix of say 4 oz. of Japan drier per gallon of WTW (warm honey gold) get the curing times back down to what is considered normal? Thanks.

[CB works 14]

Rick,

I just finished a 2000 sq ft ipe dech with the new WTW. I was figuring same on ipe, as far as penetration, so I didn't add any jap dry. I wish I would have. The deck stayed tacky for 3 days. I think the reason it stayed tacky for so long was because the rain hit a day after I finished. What was nice was that even though the rain hit and it wasn't fully cured all the stain stayed on the deck. I would definitely beef it up it the japan dry. Just so you know, I applied using the same method you mentioned. I had really long working times in the shade. I was brushing four twelve foot boards then going back to wipe off the excess with no shine on the wood. On the ocean side where it was exposed and the boards where hot I would go down one board at a time.

I can't say if 4 oz would bring it back to normal on ipe because like I said I didn't use any. I would think that it wouldn't, unless the boards were hot. I would ask Russel if I were you.

[RPetry 564]

Christian,

Thank you very much for the guidance. My wet 5 day old test ipe' sample board has been stored in my garage to keep out of any rain. Maybe this is a partial reason for the ipe' still being wet?

Think I will try 4 oz. Japan drier in 1 gal. of WTW and apply to a small section when this upcoming ipe' job is prepped. Let it sit overnight and see if it cures. Go on from there and make any drier adjustments as needed.

Unless someone else has used this recent batch of WTW on ipe' along with Japan drier and has some practical, real field experience they are willing to share. Thanks again.