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A couple of years ago I got a message from a FM in Michigan. He wanted to know how to contact Dave. He wanted Dave to add his jurisdiction to Dave's service area. That is an indication of the high regard others had of Dave.

If that is the way you want to go then be prepared for some situations that it will not handle. I will give credit to 'one story' washing with low pressure but in my neck of the woods, these are just one side of the house. The others are typically 2 - 3-1/2 stories and I guarantee you, that set-up will NOT reach those places. I know I am going to start an argument here but you asked for advice on doing something which looks great but doesn't take into account any other factors. I'd like to see that set-up work in any 10-15 mph winds that can be found pushing through between 2 houses. Having been frustrated trying to get soap on the siding before it is blown around the corner, I can tell you...this set-up will leave you unable to complete the job. -Get an m-5 jet. It has an adjustable nozzle which allows a fan pattern for up close use and a stream pattern for long distance application. you will need a separate container for your chems close by. Sorry, but this is work and doing it right requires certain compromises on the operators part. -Buy an extension lance (8'-10'). This helps with reach and access to high places over roof extensions and valleys between dormers and gables. -Get an extension pole. Purdy sells one that extends 18' with quick click features for fast extension and reduction. -Pick up a couple of wash type brushes. You will need them for hard to reach and stubborn stains bleach alone will not get. These are examples. Where you get them is up to you. ie. Carbon staining and clay staining, windy days and uneven terrain a ladder will not be safe on. -Look into the chemistry involved in cleaning the most common forms of contaminants found on siding, brick, stucco etc. Bleach and simple cherry are not the magic bullet. Trust me, there is more to it than this and part of it is a liability for bleach left on the surface. Some stains like aluminum oxidation found commonly below capped windows and more cannot be removed by bleach or most soaps. You will need a mild acid. Clay stains also need an acid. In the video, (Sorry Micheal) there is no where near enough rinsing going on and I can guarantee the mold will regrow within 6 months due to insufficient rinsing. You will need a rinse aid and hot water (120* max on vinyl). That temp alone will make holding onto a ball valve for extended periods very uncomfortable. Meanwhile, keep in mind, this video is not a typical example of a house. It is one side, one story and quite easy. I wish they were all like this but they are not. Next time you are driving through a neighborhood, take some time to seriously consider each house you see, look at the construction design, the landscape, terrain, the roof pitch, the extensions such as porches, dormers, gables and eaves, trees and other plantings which can inhibit access. Consider how you would have to access each of these and keep in mind working from the ground and that you must keep 'line of sight' in mind. You are moving into a new segment of this industry and you are obviously supporting a family and wanting to be as effective as possible to make money. Invest in the proper tools, equipment and soaps and you will do well. Don't take one videos word that this is the be-all-end-all solution. It demonstrates well what is possible with that set up but in our experience, it doesn't fill the needs we face on the home styles found in our area. I hope this post helps you to make the decision that is right for you. If what is in the video is sufficient for your area's home styles and you don't have a great deal of tall homes, clay staining, carbon staining, clay staining (found at base and foundations)...get the setup as shown. Ball valve, low pressure injector (attached to the pumps outlet) and whatever bleach + simple cherry. Otherwise, look into the other tools. Rod!~