Beth n Rod

Pottybrain... Must be you, because I was not in the gutter at all. I was referring to not rinsing the deck after neutralizing and having the salt residue show up when it dries. It can happen. I've seen it. Beth

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Yeah but there are other ways besides sweating to see salt stains on a deck.... ;) Beth :lol:

What, you have never seen salt stains on a deck? HAHAHAHA Rookie! :lol: Beth :seeya:

You are the king of multi-step jobs in ways most never think about! ;) Beth

Exactly. A cookie cutter approach is NOT necessarily the correct one. Look at the job site and the job and decide from there. Beth

FYI....your poll results...well they are proving our points! Beth

Correct! This is not for every sanding job, but there are times more often than not that the deck gets dirty from not only the sawdust but tracks from mud, scuffs from boots and people sweat a lot. I don't know if any of you have noticed but the sweat alone on a deck can leave little spots with a whitish haze the customer is always pointing out. Besides, the percarb helps to also take a second whack at the crud in the cracks the sanding and blower does not remove. Rod!~

If he has the desire to be even better, he can correct his mistakes. I hope we see him learning and bettering his business for 2009! Beth

That link is not what I would be putting in a search engine. While a marginal amount of information contained in your site may have some basis in fact to it, the underlying methods, techniques and chemical recommendations have long since been proven incorrect and are no longer used by experienced and might I add; Trained powerwashers. The pricing guide is comparable to what many here would call 'lowball' and does not reflect the practices of a financially stable company. With all due respect, I think you should look into how powerwashing and all it's facets have evolved. I think your eyes would be opened and perhaps you would be able to update your site to reflect the education. While I will give credit to your efforts on the site and your marketing, bottom line is; much of the information it contains does not stand up to todays standards. Rod!~

I agree with Mike, and will add **** **** that's some wrong info! How long have you been doing this......? Beth

...and our National Tree.... Christmas in Washington, DC - A Photo Gallery of Decorations Beth

Here's the DC area Mormon Temple too... Washington, DC Mormon Temple Festival of Lights Pictures Beth

Here's one that is like 10 minutes from our home. You drive through, lights off, it is in a state park. Enjoy the link! Photos of Christmas Lights at Seneca Creek State Park Beth :cup:

We have not had time to decorate the outside due to working, but I did manage to do a little something today outdoors..... Enjoy! :lghohoho::martini::martini: Beth

How cool is that! I went to go vote and the site has gotten a very cool upgrade! I like the live help too! Beth :groovy3:

Not always but in certain cases. Sometime we do it the way you have listed, other times not. Depends on the job. Beth

The symptoms sound like water in the gas tank to me but I have to rule that out since you said you drained the old gas and put in new. I could question whether that got it out or not but still a possibility. Another possibility could be that the mix is set too lean. It runs for a few minutes then sputters out as you put it could be another indicator of this being the cause. The last possibility is a bad float valve either sticking or being obstructed by lacquer build up. Run a gas treatment through it to help remove the buildup. Rod!~

Sorry I this is going a little off topic, but if the sap is coming out again or has been seeping, the best suggestion I have is board replacement. Obvious I know but the sap can continue exuding for a couple of years till the vein is depleted. Back on topic :winkanim: Rod!~

The day you sand an active sap vein will be another day you have fun with clogged sand paper.... ;) Beth

The is a relative statement pertaining to whatever step is necessary on any particular job. No I don't strip then wash or vice versa. The one exception was a time that I washed a golf course type deck...algae had become moss! It was so thick I had to hit it with a bleach and sodium hydroxide mix first just to kill it off and wash it to remove the mess. Then I proceeded to strip the deck then neutralize afterwards. oh, I forgot about the foot deep layer of leaves I had to blow off first to even see the deck!It wasn't one of my prouder deck jobs because the deck never sees the light of day due to the terrain and the tree coverage. The customer wasn't interested in having it sanded to help make the floor look any better which was severely neglected, had tons of planters and a cat that used it as a part time litter box. Rod!~

To provide a little insight in to that, the ladders I spoke of are at least 8 years old and have gone through multiple cleanings and have seen in the estimate of about 500 jobs each. They have joints that no longer function properly ie locking or allowing extending without the confidence the unit is actually locking into place. My crew and I have deemed them unsafe in the 'A' frame position and only use them in the fully straight configuration. I have 2 smaller step ladders, one of which is the one I mentioned in my previous post that converts from an 'A' frame to straight. The other is just a 4' step ladder that we use to clamp plastic underneath a deck and so forth where extension ladders are just too long for the job. I think it is the term of their service life under the heavy use that they have been used has been exceeded. I'm thinking of recycling them but man I wish I could turn them in for recycling cash. I'm talking a case of Dr. Pepper now! :) Rod!~

I am going to pose another suggestion based upon the trials I have had with convertible ladder systems. We have an older aluminum version of this which has been a terrific aid in working on different heights that an extension ladder is unsuitable for. Werner Ladder The problems I have had with multi-fold ladders and the little giant systems comes from the uses in which we subject them to that creates problems and makes them more frustrating to use. They get more clunky from exposure to sealants, blasting grit and sanding debris which gets into the joints and mechanisms making them difficult to use or even fail to work at all. I have 2 multi-fold ladders (12' and 16') that have become too difficult to unfold and position and they rest more than they are used. I have had the distinct advantage of a couple of customers who were so proud of their little giant ladders that they insisted we try them on the job site and was later disappointed when they were easily foiled by grit from our blast process and became difficult to extend and use. I cleaned them out and applied some WD-40 to remedy the situation but it was an insight into the ladders incompatibility. With the price tag each carries, it's not worth it. We have used Werner Ladders, stabilizers and racks instead due to the simple design and ease of use without the problems associated with our work. I do recommend these two accessories: Werner Ladder - Accessories Cool Tools: Ladder Levelers Rod!~