Beth n Rod

The post was also from 2008... Beth

Bump! Hey guys, heads up. Rod!~

The difference is in wood prep and staining. The wood holds less sealer so you have to be careful how you prep the wood. Finishes will not last long, about the length of an outdoor season so be careful how long you tell the owner it will last. Beth :cup:

Same here Greg, but I think this year we will be revisiting costs more frequently. Beth

Sorry, but I have to make a correction here. "Darkness" of the stain has no more protection factor than a lighter stain. Opacity is what constitutes protection. This is determined by the pigment level or solid content. Opacity in terms of how much light can pass through. Toners offer the least opacity. Semi transparent has higher opacity(translucent:meaning light will pass, falls into this category), then there is semi solid which has even more. Solid color stains (looks like paint and you cannot see the wood beneath it) are totally opaque. This means no light can pass through it, so it offers the best protection from UV light which is what causes wood to turn grey, crack and degrade. To answer the initial question of this thread, there will be back brushing or wiping necessary with the products you have listed. My advice to your question is going to be redirected towards maintenance. Applying these products is easy enough, the problems start when it comes time to do it again. How hard is is going to be to clean? Will it color shift (change color either lighter or darker as it ages)? This is an issue because future applications may not match what remains on the wood. This will require the need to remove the product with a stripping chemical. For a diy'er it may be more than you are willing to take on based upon the question you posed regarding difficulty. My suggestion is to use an oil based product like Armstrong which is easy to maintain and cleans up easily and is easier to maintain on teak which will require annual service. Rod!~

Sorry - amber is a contractor only color. My bad. Closest color match is Cedar-semi-transparent. You won't get any more film with it than you will the others you mentioned, in fact you will get less with it due to the non-drying oil. Beth

We use Armstrong Clark on Teak and Balau. I have furniture of both species on my own deck, and that is what they get. I like the color Amber. Plenty of pigment and protection. No need to use a dark color if you prefer not to. Beth

Just sounded like you were not going to keep up your standards. Rod!~

Cool info to have...thanks for sharing it! :groovy3: Beth

All I hear Chappy is : if ya can't beat em, join em! Where do you compromise next? I understand your position quite well. We have much of the same here so I am not without empathy here. I think you over look one thing...liability. you have been covering yourself and now you are going to leave yourself wide open. Rod!~

Welcome Rob's new little girl, Charlie. She was born at 7:30 this morning and was 7lbs. 5 oz. and 20 inches long! Beth

Bummer. It's too bad people are not willing to get the job done right. We get that here too, not much you can do except go on to the next bid. Beth

Paul - please add your signature...House rules. Beth

Love to all three of you! Biggest hugs. Beth

Far from being a novice, Rick2 had seen his share of mishaps and even though his experience had taught him much and his confidence was high, he never suspected he could have re-entered....The Newbie Zone... Rod!~

Personally, I would not use 36. Try 60... Also look at Armstrong Clark or TWP's 1500 series. Beth

Hi I have moved your thread to the DIY area. Beth

That's just too funny....was it real? Beth :cup:

Woohoo!!! Congrats!!! Beth

WindKnot.... Please add your signature. House rules. Beth

When in doubt and the label doesn't specify otherwise, strip it. Compatibility is the reason why most manufacturers state that the wood must be clean, free of debris, dust/dirt, oils or any substance that will impede penetration and adhesion. Rod!~

We use stainless QC's from the end of the hose to the tip. We have numerous changes when doing wood and it helps to use them. The 22m connectors are on hose whips between machine and hose reel. Rod!~

"Stains to avoid," Ones that color shift with age and don't match up to the product itself when it is time for maintenance. Most products work well initially but duration and maintainability are the key issues we look at. Rod!~

There are a few formulations but they are not what we use anymore so my help there is limited since the VOC reformulations of 2005 and later. Armstrong stain was designed for redwood initially and cedar being very close in genome is a very good candidate for use. Of the 3 you mentioned, Ready Seal is a moisturizing oil and helps keep cedar soft and as an oil, inhibits water penetration which is the 'sealer' portion it provides. Rod!~