plainpainter

Rick, you're kind of snotty. You know I do not like the A.C. product - but you had to go thumbing your nose into this tread and bringing it up. This thread was asking if anyone had any experience with matching a Cabot's color in the TWP line. It had nothing to do with A.C. or any other product. Why do you insist on being an A$$?

I've been using TWP steady now for 3 years. I would never use the product you use on decks.

Well, I don't really want to use A.C. anymore - although, I've had some success with the product on Mahogany that suggests that it may be a plausible product to use. I just don't understand these stains anymore. I've had great great results with TWP on pressure treated, and not so great results with it on Mahogany. And I have the reverse results with A.C. I've had lousy results with it on pressure treated and decent results on Mahogany. I just don't understand how one stain can perform wonderfully on one wood and not on another - and get the reverse results with a different manufacturer. I don't want to pass judgement on TWP yet, as the mahogany deck I did is super hot with tons of south facing sun - and there are other variables I dont' want to discuss. And the other thing is another deck I did with A.C. that I thought was mahogany with 1x6 boards I think turned out to be another kind of wood, where A.C. was nonexistent on it the following year. But it didn't look like Ipe either, perhaps teak or maybe that spanish cedar that looks identical to mahogany to me. Which is what this woman seems to have.

They have redwood, http://www.amteco.com/products_twp_1500.php#.UeK9lPmkqqI I don't know from these online color samples if it's similar - went onto the Cabot's site and the Mahogany flame didn't really look red to me - that's why I hate these online colors. Just wondering if anyone knew from experience.

Anyone have experience matching Cabot's Mahogany Flame color in the TWP1500 series of stain? This would be for Mahogany decking, the customer says it's cedar - the only cedar that it looks like it is spanish cedar - but my guess is that it's still mahogany.

I find that no matter how competitive gutter cleaning becomes, there always seems to be room to make a handsome profit. I can't even tell guys how much I make anymore with gutter clean-outs, they just can't comprehend why I am getting so much money.

Just made killer money prepping a cinderblock foundation for painting with my turbo nozzle.

I just washed my own house the other day, took down some notes based upon it. Let's say you do a house that requires 500 gallons of total solution/rinse, and you have 5 gallon muni supply. You will need approximately 130 gallon tank for a 9 gpm machine. And that assumes you come to the job with the tank filled. As far as I am concerned large buffer tanks are for starting a job immediately, if you have to wait for it to fill - you kill the whole purpose of it especially when you are trying to combat low flowing muni supplies. Let's say you are doing two homes that require 500 gallons of solution, which is what I am estimating a 3600-4000 SF home would need, then you need to double the buffer tank to a 260 gallon tank. If you plan on three homes of that size, then you need a 400 gallon tank. After each job the tank will be approximately filled a 1/3rd less, if you get the 400 gallon tank and do 3 homes of this size. This assumes no waiting around for the tank to refill

I have a 5.5 gpm machine and the 35 gallon buffer works just fine. If you need any bigger than that, than you need to charge clients extra for water delivery - because there are real supply issues at that point! My only issue is that the traditional float valves that looks like it came out the back of a toilet - allowed me to have water fill right to the top, yet it couldn't hold back any serious muni-supply pressure and the tank would leak from overfilling. The Hudson valve that replaced it, can take the pressure - but you lose like 10 gallons of capacity - and I hate that!

Without knowing the size of your home, it's hard to say. If it's a one level ranch that measures 17 deep and 34 wide - then I'd say the quote was right on the money.

Lance, stop asking questions about this. A homeowner that wants oxidation removed on their aluminum siding - yet doesn't want to pay for a repaint, is a homeowner that's going to stick you with painting their whole house for free. Just walk and look for another profitable job.

Most definitely - get drills and core those tips out until the chems draw. I tried a 4040 with my two machines hooked together - and I thought I was going to blast the house off the foundation.

with that setup you'll only pull chems through a 3/8" hose barb - only the single injector after the machines are joined up will work with 3/8" line. But you'll have to happy with 15-17:1 downstream rate. If you want to stick with 3/8" line and a single injector - you'll have to get a 1 gpm delavan and pump chems through the chem injectort in order to make it work. If you just want a normal setup - you'll have to resort to all 1/2" hose. And once again you can put an injector after each machine.

I went through the same thing you just did two years ago. I couldn't get the machines when hooked up together to pull chems through even 100' of line. And I took the hose reel out of the loop to see if it would help. Nothing but nothing would pull chem unless I was just shooting straight out of a 3/8" male hose barb. But I was doing something slightly different as well - I was putting an injecter sized for 5.5gpm machine after each machine before they were joined together. Probably forcing all 10+ gallons through a single injector would get the injector to once pull again. But the limitations is that the max flow through a single injector is 84 ounces of chemical per minute. To a 10 gpm machine that's a downstream rate of 15:1. I don't know about you, but unless I can get my hands on 18% sodium hypochlorite, that's useless to me. That's why you will need 1/2" hose to make the system work well.