Jump to content
  • 0
Sign in to follow this  
Lenny Schrec

Sikens,

Question

Does anyone have a stripper for sikens. I applyed sikens to a deck a few years ago. It now shows its wear. The customer is selling the house and wants to redo the deck but not with sikens. If we cannot remove it we will cover it with solid stain. Any tips.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

19 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

HD-80 will work.

We have stripped Sikkens Cetol DEK with it before.

Mix it at 8 oz to the gallon, let it dwell until you are sure it is through the surface, keep it moist with more product. Could take a while, scratch it to see if it is ready.

Beth

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I just got back from vacation.

I already told the customer that it would most likly not come off and we would cover it up with a solid. He was happy with that. He wants it to l;ook good to sell the house.

Thank for the tip Beth

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Covering it up is not the best solution, even if the guy is selling the house. When it starts to chip and peel, do you want the new owners telling the neighbors that it was your work?

Worse yet, do you want them to call you to remove a solid stain over a failing Sikkens? Talk about a nighmare. You couldn't pay me enough!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Stripping Sikkens is not as hard as everyone thinks. Yeah, it takes time but thats why they call it dwell time. I have stripped dozens of decks with the stuff on it and the homeowners were very pleased each time.

Just keep it wet and dwelling for 15-20 minutes per coat till you can scratch thru to wood with the tip of your spray wand concentrating on the vertical surfaces the most particularly under the rail caps.

Rod!~

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I'de be inclined to take it off to avoid potential grip failure of the new stuff ...

My point exactly. Why put something over something that is about to fail and give the customer more headaches? The new coating will stick well in areas where the wood is exposed and it can have a better hold, but on the areas currently holding a coating that's time is past is only setting up an environment for peeling and flaking which leads to an uneven repair in the future.

Besides, you may get the $$$ now but in the future, the results the customer has to contend with may be a deterrent from using you again.

If one cannot do it right the first time, don't take the job. (my little saying) To many including the customer who ultimately develops the perception it only makes the rest of us look bad and harder to get the job because of someone else who didn't hold up to standard.

Rod!~

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Well I got this deck stripped. I had some HD 80 but was afraid it would not be enough so I tried some Remove I got from Sunbright. It did the job. I mixed it twice as strong as recomended, 1 bottle to 2.5 gal. water, and had do strip 1 layer at a time. I knew it only had the base and 1 layer on top of that. I wished I tried the Remove at 1 bottle to 4 or 5 gal of water.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Beth,

When mixing your hd-80 at 8oz. per gallon, what is your method of application? If I were to use an x-jet, what would be my dilution rate? Tom D. gave me some of his to try, so I want to give it a shot next week.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

We rarely use it at 8oz/gal but like to apply it with a sprayer over an x-jet or m-5 jet due to the 3:1 dilution ratio which makes it too weak to perform. For most our purposes it is mixed up to 6oz/gal in concentration to get the job done and avoid heavy fuzzing. Patience is key next to dwell time and attention to where the stripping is successful vs not complete.

What can I say...it's an art to me.

Rod!~

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
We rarely use it at 8oz/gal but like to apply it with a sprayer over an x-jet or m-5 jet due to the 3:1 dilution ratio which makes it too weak to perform. For most our purposes it is mixed up to 6oz/gal in concentration to get the job done and avoid heavy fuzzing. Patience is key next to dwell time and attention to where the stripping is successful vs not complete.

What can I say...it's an art to me.

Rod!~

Will a pump up do?? I'm close to selling my company, and I want to be able to keep my buyer on top of all other guys in my area.

And Yes Rod, you and Beth do "artistically beautiful work!"

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

They now serve as a back up in case the sprayer has any problems.

Contingency plan, you got to have one for just about everything in this business.

Rod!~

btw, thanks for the compliment. We'd all be interested in seeing yours and others work too. It's great to see things go from yuck to wow!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

If you're selling your company and you'd like to keep on top of the competition in your area for your potential buyer, then you still need a shurflo or cart sprayer setup. A pump up should be for emergencies in case your equipment breaks down, but you still definately need it.

John

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
If you're selling your company and you'd like to keep on top of the competition in your area for your potential buyer, then you still need a shurflo or cart sprayer setup. A pump up should be for emergencies in case your equipment breaks down, but you still definately need it.

John

I will show him that option, but I'm not going to purchase that right now. I usually use my x-jet for all of my chem applications, but I'm trying a few new strippers (hd-80 and f-18) and I hadn't run into any dillution ratios used w/ the x jet..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I've got a job that has Sikkens on redwood. Problem is that the owners son did some unsupervised power washing and ended up doing some gouging of the siding. The groove isn't that deep, but needs to be sanded. I've never worked with Sikkens, so my question is, can I just sand and refinish a section? They called me in to potentially strip to the bare redwood, but I'm not sure what product to use. So is HD 80 what I want to tackle this job?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×