Strippers

[Chris 14]

Made you look!

But seriously, I got a request today to strip.

1000 square feet of pavers that need to be chemically stripped to fix the worst sealing job I've seen (surrounding a pool), and then re-sealed.

I've done plenty of cleaning and sealing but never removed sealer. Any suggestions on proper chemicals and techniques?

Thanks!

[Flamin SuperDuty 14]

it is very difficult, we did a job last year for the county sherriff, it was very messy. we used a gel like stripping agent that you brush on and let sit. it was a eco freindly agent called Bean Clean i believe. it was approxamitly 250 to 300 dollars for a 5 gallon pail. we used 2 pails. when the sealer comes off it ruins your jeans so make sure you have a old pair on. let me know if you have any more questions. i have some left if you want to try it out.

[Chris 14]

Thanks,

Being eco friendly, do you think it would cause any harm geting into a swimming pool? She's not too concerned about some runoff but I won't do anything that could mess her pool up.

[Kory 14]

Call me I have done it before. Its a P.I.T.A 813-407-9077

[Chris 14]

Thanks Kory I will. I'm anticipating a nightmare with it and will probably tack on $1k for the hassle. If I don't get it I won't lose any sleep (if I do I probably will!).

[ACleanerImage 14]

First thing, tell the customer they will have to have pool clean after you are done. Is the pool patio over an existing pad? If so you may need to let it dry 3 and 4 days. If it is sand set I would advise 2 days just to be safe Maybe even put a fan out there. Do you have a heater? You can use dads stripper, it runs somewhere around 115 for a 5 gallons. You can roll or spray it on let it sit for about 15 minutes or so. I normally roll it on to saturate the area. Then you want to use the surface cleaner and heat. You may need to do the process twice. Once you have made sure all of the sealer is removed, you should do a light acid wash. Then rinse everything down. What type of sealer are you putting back down? If the sealer has xylene in it, you will need to dilute the sealer with some xylene. You may want to use a waterbase sealer back there it just depends on how the customer wants it to look. Let us know how it turns out. Good luck!

[Jeff 232]

Did I hear something about strippers? LOL

this is some of the local talent, they double as bartenders during bike weeks. now thats some hard working women:lgsideway

[Adrian 155]

you're a trip Jeff.

[Jeff 232]

you're a trip Jeff.

Bike weeks coming up in May if you want a tour of our local talent LOL

[Russ Spence 76]

But seriously, I got a request today to strip.

Please dont !

[sflasealcoatinginc 14]

Your obviously quite a ways from me...i was up in melbourne last week for a job....I have a store IN delray beach...The stripping isnt hard if you know how to do it....I do about 2-3 strip jobs a week,,,,yes thats right ...did one yesterday.about 2200 sq ft..have another one tomorrow.about 1500 sq ft..i have soem posts on here with before after pics if u want to look through the archives. You cannot put a water base over top of a solvent #1.......#2 75% of pool decks are 1 " brick..... especially in florida where they had cool deck....concrete or chatt under. This is usually the cuase for the hazing 99% of the time. People coat sealer on like they are not supposed to and thats what happens. If they are tiles ( 1 inch brick) There is a very good chance it could happen again ...let the homeowner know about this. If there is no screen enclosure you should be good to go.... If there is....count on a mess. Dads stripper is usually priced from 119-125 per 5 gallon....i sell it cheaper than anyone @ 115 per 5 gal. you can give me a call anytime i can walk you through it step by step. :)

[Scott Paul 164]

We have been stripping paver sealers for about 10 years, mainly due to cheap sealers turning white and or bad sealing job with sand all over the top. The best way to strip is to use a methylene chloride based stripper. Dad's Stripper is a good brand that contains this chemical. Make sure to use a chemical respirator and protective clothing. Best way is to roll on in sections and use a turbo tip to remove. Once the stripper emulsifies the old sealer it will come off like you are removing a layer of white "skin". This old sealer needs to be pushed into grass or vegetation. IMO it is impossible to reclaim.

Good Luck, it is not a fun job!

[MMI Enterprises 289]

You cannot put a water base over top of a solvent #1

I prefure to say you can not put a waterbase over top of an oil based product without proper prep.

To be clear, generally speaking it is not advised to put a waterborne coating such as a latex paint over an oilbased coating/paint that contains the natural oils/drying oils without priming first. Such primers are an alkyd/synthetic that bind well to and traps the oil. The waterbornes of course bind well to such as there is no natural oils involved.

.. This leads to a worthy mention that many if not most hard surface foot traffic coatings use synthetic resins/acrylics in a solvent carrier and can take a waterbased sacraficial coating just fine...Good luck finding a suitable waterborne clear meant for exterior use though.

For most part it is common to place a waterborne over top of a solvent borne in interior applications.

Cody, your statement for sure can hold true when speaking of penetrating oils for deck or perhaps the pavers but I'd like to ask what waterbased or solvent products do you see people doing together in the paver world that creates a no no situation? Is it mainly their using some waterbased sealer meant for interior use or is it an actual existing oil coating causing problem?..

[sflasealcoatinginc 14]

I dont deal with latex coatings or wood ect.... When i say waterbase over solvent... im talking more about pavers and concrete... When aplying a ssolvent over top of an old waterbase sealer job....the solvent will (melt) or blend itself into the previous coating givign it something to bond to. A water base product doesnt have this bonding property. It simply sits on the surface and sometimes may cuase it to peel. This is especially true when doing concrete stains. Sorry i forgot to clarify that... Oh and Scott Paul was dead on....I have many scars unfortunately on my legs from Dads lol so use it with cuation. Try spraying pepper spray on ur skin and leave it for 10 seconds and your about 1/2 of what dads feels like lol. And yes it gets pretty messy. I especially like the really thick strip jobs cuase it comes of in big flakes. I get excited about odd stuff like that

I prefure to say you can not put a waterbase over top of an oil based product without proper prep.

To be clear, generally speaking it is not advised to put a waterborne coating such as a latex paint over an oilbased coating/paint that contains the natural oils/drying oils without priming first. Such primers are an alkyd/synthetic that bind well to and traps the oil. The waterbornes of course bind well to such as there is no natural oils involved.

.. This leads to a worthy mention that many if not most hard surface foot traffic coatings use synthetic resins/acrylics in a solvent carrier and can take a waterbased sacraficial coating just fine...Good luck finding a suitable waterborne clear meant for exterior use though.

For most part it is common to place a waterborne over top of a solvent borne in interior applications.

Cody, your statement for sure can hold true when speaking of penetrating oils for deck or perhaps the pavers but I'd like to ask what waterbased or solvent products do you see people doing together in the paver world that creates a no no situation? Is it mainly their using some waterbased sealer meant for interior use or is it an actual existing oil coating causing problem?..

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Cody, I too am talking about concrete... I mentioned the other surfaces since the common situations of maintenance or recoating them often sees what yer saying in all its glory with things peeling or failing. But again I'll reiterate that those are sutuations of 'oil' and IMO does not apply here. Unless you tell me your seeing people having had used oil products on pavers or crete I have to disagree with you with no waterbornes over solventbornes...

Concrete stain is generally an all synthetic product which is generally acrylic in a water carrier. Besides that we have acid staining as well as solvent borne and waterborne dyes. In the case of most synthetics the normal direction would be waterborne toppings over solventbornes unless your using the solids of the solventborne acrylics to lock the acrylic staining work in.(hence your term' melting'). However the solvent carrier evaps off and all that is left is a binder/coating that is fully compatable to a waterbased acrylic on either side of it..either underneith or on top. Is 100% acrylic. Again it is not oil.

Although some would think it to be an acid job, below is an example of waterborne acrylic staining that is locked in (melted) with solventborne acrylic and then topped with waterborne acrylic.This is of course interior job but what should be noted is that the solvent based acrylic is tough enough to endure common wax stripping methods of the waterborne topping. I regularly care for thousands of feet of waterbornes that are on top of solvent acrylics, epoxyies, and poly's and never see the water product peel ever. In contrast though it would be rather easy to peel up or chip up some poly or epoxy if the surface was not prepped for enough grip. For most part all interior staining jobs are waterborne topped to help protect the work. Same can apply to exterior if proper product is used. There are some clear waterbornes out there that are toted as being tough enough and uv stable enough to go over exterior work. Am not done testing them myself though so I can't recommend them. I suspect that if they tough as they say they will not be readily strippable and therefore useless as a sacraficial topping of the solvents.

In the case of solid exterior staining I would consider solvent borning over only an intact waterborne stain but if dealing with clears I would remove the waterborne product rather than trying or hoping for a clear finish. I say would cause I generally mess with the interior fixing or upkeep of existing or new coatings.

[Chris 14]

Oops, didn't check in for a few days. Cody, I will forward your info to her if you're interested in the job, we have plenty of other work on the schedule and I'm really not too interested in the hassle. If you are interested and get the job, I'd like to stop by to check it out and maybe grab lunch or a beer. I'll send you a pm.

[sflasealcoatinginc 14]

Point taken.....Ive never had very good luck ...and actually have fixed a couple driveways where a waterbased stain was put over a previous solvent based stain. Undertanding that both have the same acrylic, the only difference is the carrying agent. In all three cases where the water based stain was used, there was flaking of the new stain. So though it may be possible, i usually try to stay away from it. And that pic does look like acid stain btw lol

Cody, I too am talking about concrete... I mentioned the other surfaces since the common situations of maintenance or recoating them often sees what yer saying in all its glory with things peeling or failing. But again I'll reiterate that those are sutuations of 'oil' and IMO does not apply here. Unless you tell me your seeing people having had used oil products on pavers or crete I have to disagree with you with no waterbornes over solventbornes...

Concrete stain is generally an all synthetic product which is generally acrylic in a water carrier. Besides that we have acid staining as well as solvent borne and waterborne dyes. In the case of most synthetics the normal direction would be waterborne toppings over solventbornes unless your using the solids of the solventborne acrylics to lock the acrylic staining work in.(hence your term' melting'). However the solvent carrier evaps off and all that is left is a binder/coating that is fully compatable to a waterbased acrylic on either side of it..either underneith or on top. Is 100% acrylic. Again it is not oil.

Although some would think it to be an acid job, below is an example of waterborne acrylic staining that is locked in (melted) with solventborne acrylic and then topped with waterborne acrylic.This is of course interior job but what should be noted is that the solvent based acrylic is tough enough to endure common wax stripping methods of the waterborne topping. I regularly care for thousands of feet of waterbornes that are on top of solvent acrylics, epoxyies, and poly's and never see the water product peel ever. In contrast though it would be rather easy to peel up or chip up some poly or epoxy if the surface was not prepped for enough grip. For most part all interior staining jobs are waterborne topped to help protect the work. Same can apply to exterior if proper product is used. There are some clear waterbornes out there that are toted as being tough enough and uv stable enough to go over exterior work. Am not done testing them myself though so I can't recommend them. I suspect that if they tough as they say they will not be readily strippable and therefore useless as a sacraficial topping of the solvents.

In the case of solid exterior staining I would consider solvent borning over only an intact waterborne stain but if dealing with clears I would remove the waterborne product rather than trying or hoping for a clear finish. I say would cause I generally mess with the interior fixing or upkeep of existing or new coatings.

[sealerguy 14]

Dads would work great, maybe lay some plastic over the pool or float it if there is water to collect debris as much as possible.