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Attached is a picture of the same area viewed from two directions of an Ipe deck done with Wood Tux. I am not getting the results I wanted. The deck was stripped and neutralized then left for 5 days to dry. The deck was also defurred with an Osborn brush (not impressed by this thing, will stick to sanding in the future). The Wood Tux was brushed on liberally, allow to sit for 5 mins, then padded in to remove excess. This stuff went on pretty thick and was like padding through mollases after only 5 mins., very tacky. Temp was mid 60's and sunny. With some parts of the wood it settled in, on other it just seemed to sit on top, shiny appearance. Neither the customer nor I were satisfied with what was going on; he said it looked just like the ATO that failed after one month. We agreed to leave this section for a few days to see what happens. If it still looks this way, I'll probably strip it off and try Bakers (probably should have used that to begin with; a product I know and trust).

Did I do something wrong? Is this just the nature of Ipe? As far as I know, I prepped it correctly. This will be a 6 month maintenance contract so I want to get the "base" coat done right. I'm about ready to 60grit sand the whole thing then wash it again.

I will be flying around the country today so I won't be near a computer but if anyone wants to call me, I get back to you during one of my lay-overs. 817.372.3743.

Thnx.

post-1269-137772202759_thumb.jpg

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Pete,

Pretty much ALL semi-transparent oils will "look" the same. They contain pigment, but let the wood show through. They all come in pretty much the same colors. Ipe is dense, so they will all last about the same - or within a few months of one another in full sun. This is an expected result.

As for the Osborn, we prefer the defelting pads on ipe. You can get them at ACR PRODUCTS . They are a buffing pad, and we like the results better on ipe. Better than sanding or Osbornes. We like Osborne's for other things....each tool has its place.

Beth

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Pete, Baker's won't hold up on ipe (you'll be lucky to get thee months from it). WoodTux is very quick to start curing, you just aren't used to it. The quick cure is exactly what you want on ipe since any type of penetrating oil will go in and come right back out. Deep penetrating oils are fighting the natural characteristics/density of the wood.

I agree with Beth, the look has nothing to do with finish longevity. You are not used to working with ipe. It is not the same as doing other woods. I price in wiping every board. Whatever has not penetrated in 5-10 minutes is not going to penetrate. Wiping the excess prevents a surface film which can leave you with shiny spots. Fot what its worth, i think what you have stained thus far looks great.

One last thought: Be careful what you parlay to the customer. They will follow your lead. If you start showing doubt their confidence will falter and you will have a harder time a) convincing them you know what you are doing and b) accepting the final results.

PS: I would never use an Osborne on ipe. It will leave too many scratches.

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Ya can't tell how that is gonna be after a week or two to where ya can support starting over. If anything ya might have to fix the shinies sooner or go back and clean them up when done. I would have done the whole thing at once and made it clear that it needs to settle awhile. I believe Ken is correct with the idea of not steering a customer to conclusions. You must be armed with solution and answers to their questions of course but rarely would it be to start over or a change in product in middle of a job...good luck there..

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I don't think you can pad enough of the excess off, Maybe you can but I haven't figured out how. I go through about 15 lbs of wiping rags on 2000 square feet of decking to get a nice flat look.

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You have some spots that were not completely removed of the fuzzies that are left from the wash. An osborn could work to finish but a pad would work better.

Don't go so heavy on the application and use a pad. This will help you to pick up the excess and spread it around to bare wood. If it sets up on you, then use some mineral spirits to wipe off the excess. Over time, you will get better at the application by making sure you are getting a matte finish upon application.

It takes time to learn various techniques associated with stain application on hardwoods but with attention to detail you will figure it out.

Rod!~

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You have some spots that were not completely removed of the fuzzies that are left from the wash. An osborn could work to finish but a pad would work better.

Don't go so heavy on the application and use a pad. This will help you to pick up the excess and spread it around to bare wood. If it sets up on you, then use some mineral spirits to wipe off the excess. Over time, you will get better at the application by making sure you are getting a matte finish upon application.

It takes time to learn various techniques associated with stain application on hardwoods but with attention to detail you will figure it out.

Rod!~

I applied with a brush and back padded to drive it in and take away excess.

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Pete

By looking at your pictures, I would say the product is over applied. I understand that you brushed and then back padded. Back padding or back brushing are generally used to even out a finish. Your goal with Ipe is to completely take up the excess. For this a dry rag generally works much better. If you find the finish becoming tacky you can season your rag with a bit of mineral spirits.

I try to explain to people working with Ipe that it is more similar to finishing furniture than staining a deck.

Feel free to give me a call if you like.

Russell Cissell

Wood Deck Cleaning & Sealing Products - ideal for wood siding and log homes

636-288-8512

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Ken,

Hah!, great picture. You really don't get out in the field much. Pristine blue jeans, clean unstained shirt, and knee pads that look like they just came off the store shelf. I'm jealous!

Pete,

I think Rod is right. The osbourne brush did not help and maybe exaserbated the problem. Ran into the same thing using 60 grit sandpaper on ipe' and finishing with WoodTux. The finish just does not look right. Fix was to use 3M defelting pads on the Makita 9227 and refinish.

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Ken,

Hah!, great picture. You really don't get out in the field much. Pristine blue jeans, clean unstained shirt, and knee pads that look like they just came off the store shelf. I'm jealous!

Who's the guy on his knees? Ken don't take care of wood does he?:whip:

I mean I heard he is old fat guy right?

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