Deck restoration project: some ?s...

[wjr18.pa 14]

Greetings,

Long time lurker, first time poster here, looking for some help on a deck restoration project.

I am restoring what I think is a redwood deck off my new home (pictures attached) . After a lot of research here and elsewhere, I’ve come up with the following game plan.

1. Prep with a sodium percarb cleaner (Woodbrite) and rinse (no pwash)

2. Brighten with Oxalic acid (AX98) and rinse (again, no pwash).

3 Let dry

4 Apply stain (oil based semi-trans—VOC complaint ;-(.

Seems straightforward enough, but some challenges present themselves:

1. The weather. Where I live it rains. A lot. So much that frankly, I’m not sure I‘ll have a week straight of dry weather where I can do the project. If I were to do steps 1 and 2 only to have it rain before #3 and am I back at #1 all over again? or can I just wipe it down, let it dry and go?

2. Speaking of drying, are there any quick and easy ways to test the moisture level of wood? Obviously a moisture meter would be best, but this is probably a one shot deal for me, so I’d rather no invest in such a specialized piece of equipment. Cabot’s web site had a tip of using a piece of household tape—apply and pull, and if it’s clean you’re good to go, but I had never heard of this. Thoughts?

3. Finally, what are folks position on the new VOC compliant Cabot (#7400 series)? Where I live this is the easiest, and from what I can tell the only legal, oil-based I can get my hands on….

Thanks a lot for any and all advice, and for being willing to help! .

WR

[RPetry 564]

Greetings,

Long time lurker, first time poster here, looking for some help on a deck restoration project.

I am restoring what I think is a redwood deck off my new home (pictures attached) . After a lot of research here and elsewhere, I’ve come up with the following game plan.

It is good to have a plan, especially when doing something presumably new.

1. Prep with a sodium percarb cleaner (Woodbrite) and rinse (no pwash)

This is fine if there is no existing stain on the redwood. Otherwise, you will need an exterior wood stripper. If not using a powerwasher, scrub the wood after applying the percarb, then hose off.

2. Brighten with Oxalic acid (AX98) and rinse (again, no pwash).

Never a need to powerwash a brightener/neutralizer. But for most oil stains, rinse the oxalic off the wood very well. Not sure what AX98 means, we use citric acid.

3 Let dry

Very good idea, unless using questionable, gee wiz stain products.

4 Apply stain (oil based semi-trans—VOC complaint ;-(.

Oil based is good. There are very good VOC compliant exterior wood oil based stains available.

1. The weather. Where I live it rains. A lot. So much that frankly, I’m not sure I‘ll have a week straight of dry weather where I can do the project. If I were to do steps 1 and 2 only to have it rain before #3 and am I back at #1 all over again? or can I just wipe it down, let it dry and go?

No, you only need dry wood for step 4, staining.

2. Speaking of drying, are there any quick and easy ways to test the moisture level of wood? Obviously a moisture meter would be best, but this is probably a one shot deal for me, so I’d rather no invest in such a specialized piece of equipment. Cabot’s web site had a tip of using a piece of household tape—apply and pull, and if it’s clean you’re good to go, but I had never heard of this. Thoughts?

I cannot believe the Cabot's "tip" is for wood moisture. Our business is in NJ and we tend to get rain also. Use common sense. Humidity, temperature, and sun exposure all all factors. In general, for most woods, 2 days without precipitation should be fine.

3. Finally, what are folks position on the new VOC compliant Cabot (#7400 series)? Where I live this is the easiest, and from what I can tell the only legal, oil-based I can get my hands on….

If you want a terrific redwood deck to look like a pressure treated picnic table, shame. The 7400 series is what Cabot's calls "semi-solid". In reality, it looks like thin paint.

Redwood here on the East coast is quite rare. It is a beautiful wood. Let it shine. Think oil semi-transparent. Think Ready Seal, Armstrong-Clark, Extreme Solutions stains. All are available on the web, use Google.

Thanks a lot for any and all advice, and for being willing to help!

Just don't "paint" it!

Edited June 30, 2008 by RPetry

[wjr18.pa 14]

thanks for the quick and detailed advice. I'm afraid I have more questions!!

First, stripping. Is this process as straightforward and quick as cleaning/brightening--i.e. apply, scrub and rinse? Could anyone recommend a product? All I can find around here is the Behr "all purpose" stripper, and I'm leery...

Also, it's possible I'm wrong about the wood--it might just be a color application. Is there a way to figure this out, or would I have to strip and scrub it down first to determine the wood, and then purchase the right semi-trans stain? If so, I start to worry about time frames--esp. if I have to order online...

Finally, any thoughts on Cabot 1400?

[gt2003 18]

wjr18, I don't see the pics. Post them and let us see what you are dealing with.

[Jarrod 22]

Hire a pro.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

I agree..hire a pro especially if you need to strip. Don't even mention that Behr word around here..lol.

Don't worry about time frame in regard to ordering in product. Those mentioned will likely have product at your door before your finished prepping let alone by time wood is dry.

Stain choice doesn't have much to do with type of wood unless you have some exotic hardwood deck that wants a hardwood formulaton or it is junk wood you would rather cover over than look at. Usually it all looks better with a choice that shows off the wood grain..a toner or semi trans is a good bet. Some of us have pics up in various threads of all the stains mentioned. Latest good looking deck would be bigchaz using Armstrong cedar. Use the search function.

Good luck if you choose to tackle yourself!

[wjr18.pa 14]

Thanks all for the replies. Some pictures attached. Any and all input regarding getting it back to bare wood, or the type of stain/wood pictured herein is greatly appreciated.

Having read around more I am feeling better about the following plan.

PREP

1. Clean (Woodbrite)

2. Scrub and rinse

3. Strip (Defy?)

4. Scrub and rinse

5. Neutralize/Brighten (oxalic)

6. Scrub and rinse

7. Let dry

MMI—thanks. I agree with you and I should have been clearer, when I said “the right type of stain” I meant a color that would best highlight the grain. Having read more, I plan to go with Armstrong Clark in sierra redwood—seems like a good fit for my deck (see below--esp. the rails), and for what I am trying to do in terms of color/protection.

Jarrod--one of the reasons I decided to DIY is b/c I had trouble finding a local pro who struck me as reputable/knowledgeable. More than one came out to the house offering only Behr, or just a straight pwash by way of prep. They were either unfamiliar or unwilling to work with some of the things I had read about here and elsewhere (higher-end stains….oxybleach…brightener(!) etc), so I decided to research as best I could, and put together a plan for doing it myself. I have the time, enjoy the work, and want very much for this to be done the right way, so I’m reading as much and as asking as many questions as I can.

I also understand there may be mixed feelings about helping out DIYers “pro bono”—so I try not to ask too many questions, and to stick with the DIY sections of these boards so as not to intrude. I will say I’m ordering my stain from The Sealer Store-- a product I wouldn’t know about from a vendor I wouldn’t know about, were it nor for this site--by way of saying thank you.

W

Edited July 10, 2008 by wjr18.pa

[bigchaz 157]

I dont think that's redwood. Hopefully someone with a better eye can ring in to verify that.

Those floor boards are going to be a bear to strip. Youll need a heavy application to budge those solid areas. Rails will also be hard to strip if you're not pressure washing. Any indication what the old stain was? Old stain can laying around anywhere?

No need to clean the deck before stripping it. If anything do it afterward once you can see what the wood looks like underneath the old stain.

You dont scrub after putting oxalic on the wood either. Once the stripping is all complete, just spray your oxalic on and let it sit a few minutes before hosing the deck down.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Thanks all for the replies. Some pictures attached. Any and all input regarding getting it back to bare wood, or the type of stain/wood pictured herein is greatly appreciated.

Having read around more I am feeling better about the following plan.

PREP

1. Clean (Woodbrite)

2. Scrub and rinse

3. Strip (Defy?)

4. Scrub and rinse

5. Neutralize/Brighten (oxalic)

6. Scrub and rinse

7. Let dry

MMI—thanks. I agree with you and I should have been clearer, when I said “the right type of stain” I meant a color that would best highlight the grain. Having read more, I plan to go with Armstrong Clark in sierra redwood—seems like a good fit for my deck (see below--esp. the rails), and for what I am trying to do in terms of color/protection.

Jarrod--one of the reasons I decided to DIY is b/c I had trouble finding a local pro who struck me as reputable/knowledgeable. More than one came out to the house offering only Behr, or just a straight pwash by way of prep. They were either unfamiliar or unwilling to work with some of the things I had read about here and elsewhere (higher-end stains….oxybleach…brightener(!) etc), so I decided to research as best I could, and put together a plan for doing it myself. I have the time, enjoy the work, and want very much for this to be done the right way, so I’m reading as much and as asking as many questions as I can.

I also understand there may be mixed feelings about helping out DIYers “pro bono”—so I try not to ask too many questions, and to stick with the DIY sections of these boards so as not to intrude. I will say I’m ordering my stain from The Sealer Store-- a product I wouldn’t know about from a vendor I wouldn’t know about, were it nor for this site--by way of saying thank you.

W

There is nothing wrong with asking questions here. Many are willing to help, some more than others... and this time of year many are strapped for time.

You are wise to do your research. It will yield you a better end result. It can be don't just make sure you don't stray from the steps prescribed, be very particular about following them, and take the time needed to do it (no skipping steps!) Make sure you stop at logical stopping points and not in the middle of a step - for example, NEVER leave stripper on a deck until tomorrow. Always finish the task. Always wear the dreaded PPE. Wear the respirator around chems. Wear the gloves. Wear the eye protection and the PVC on hot days. Deck stripping can be hazardous, and I am not trying to scare you - but you really don't want a trip to the ER due to a burn or a lung full.

Be safe on your adventure! :)

The "mom" in me has spoken... ;)

Beth

p.s. without seeing more of the floor, based upon the rails - I think the deck is PT lumber (pine)

Edited July 10, 2008 by Beth n Rod
adding PS

[gt2003 18]

Dang, tough to tell if that's a solid, semi-solid or semi-transparent. The middle 2 pics look almost as if you can see the texture/grain of the wood. Any ideas on what was put on there?

[bigchaz 157]

The floor color looks like a sikkens deck I stripped last year. Rails seem like a different stain altogether though....or there's been a buildup of product on the floor

[Jarrod 22]

Jarrod--one of the reasons I decided to DIY is b/c I had trouble finding a local pro who struck me as reputable/knowledgeable. More than one came out to the house offering only Behr, or just a straight pwash by way of prep. They were either unfamiliar or unwilling to work with some of the things I had read about here and elsewhere (higher-end stains….oxybleach…brightener(!) etc), so I decided to research as best I could, and put together a plan for doing it myself. I have the time, enjoy the work, and want very much for this to be done the right way, so I’m reading as much and as asking as many questions as I can.

W

I'm not surprised at all that you had that experience with the "pros" that showed up. The problem with this industry is that there are so many who buy a squirt gun at Home Depot and print 25 flyers and they are a "pro." Good job on weeding out the hacks. Call Scott @ the Sealer Store, he will steer you in the right direction.

[wjr18.pa 14]

Yes Charlie --I think the floor boards and the rails are different. When I went out to to take a closer look I could see some contrasting drip marks and laps b/w the two.

There are cans for every paint job on the property out in the garage except, of course, the deck!!

Here are a few more pics--the first four are additional shots of the floor/rails. The next three (next post) are from a stairway that I went ahead and cleaned with percarb (WoodBrite) last night to try and get a better sense of what I was dealing with.

W

[wjr18.pa 14]

Post-Woodbrite....

[bigchaz 157]

woodbrite didnt even touch it....not a good sign

[wjr18.pa 14]

So after a *long* weekend of SW Stripper and Oxalic, I think I've made some real progress getting back to bare wood (which now seems to my untrained eye to be PT pine?). I've attached some pics here (these are the same spots as in post #14 above )

My plan now is to spot strip a few of the more ornery (vertical) patches, sand the fuzzies and use Armstrong Clark semi redwood--hopefully next weekend.

Look ready to you??

Edited July 28, 2008 by wjr18.pa

[bigchaz 157]

You certainly have a good bit of sanding still to do on those steps. Floor looks good minus some small spots but anywhere else on the deck that you still see old red stain needs to be removed. Your worst spots are the facing of the step treads and the side of the railing 2x4 as well us up high where the spindles meet the rail cap

[wjr18.pa 14]

I agree--the stripper was real fluidic(?) so verticals were a problem, and my brush couldn't hit those tight spots you're talking about so those really just got a dwell and rinse. Going to rent an orbital sander and have at it all Saturday.

Quick ?: Could I use an orbital @ 60 grit to prep the surface and to get that old stain off as well, or do these jobs need to be treated separately?

Thanks!

W