CompletelyClean 14 Report post Posted March 24, 2004 What's the best method to remove varnish or a latex sealer like Thompsons from wood, specifically Cedar? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted March 24, 2004 Sanding doesn't work because it gums up. Last year I used a Porter Cable paint remover ( tungston carbide) to remove. then went back over (sanding). This was after 16 hours of stripping. My biggest ^&*#@% to date......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted March 24, 2004 Bryan, Can you post a pic? It would help alot. Also if the owner knows what's on it, it would sure help us help you out. Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted March 25, 2004 Bryan, Check out this link http://www.thegrimescene.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6189#post6189 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Guest rfitz Report post Posted March 25, 2004 I have had really good success stripping concrete porch's and decks with varnish coatings, with BIX gel stripper, letting it sit several hours and misting it every 10-15 minutes, Napier products out of Canada sell's a good gel stripper as well, it will take off anything, the cool thing about these products is they dont tear up the wood, they just emulsify the finish, then just wash like normal with hot water, stuff comes right off, I ve tried both ways, sanding with 40-60 grit orbital sander, and using the gel type strippers, and I like using the gels,plus I charge between $3.00 and $5.00 a sq ft, because no one else will touch them..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 CompletelyClean 14 Report post Posted March 25, 2004 Beth, I will have pics next week. Took the wife's Jeep and had my digital in MY truck (crap). Also, the homeowner doesn't know. He bought the house with the deck done like this. Tony, Thanks for that link. I'm wondering if I could rent that gadget from the local Rental-All place...problem is, the railings and spindles are messed up, too. Upon further reading on that post, I saw someone mention sandblasting. Now that's ANOTHER expense to egt into. What would it take to get outfitted with sandblasting equipment for my 5GPM, 3500 PSI, hot water unit??? Geeze! Maybe I'll try the Bix (or similar type) gel, like Rfitz suggests. The deck is rectangle in shape and only 2 feet off the ground. Easy access and notheing but pebbles underneath. The only concern I see is letting it dwell for a couple of HOURS and continuing to mist throughout...what a PAIN! By the way...the good news is that there are only patches of this crap left after a couple different PW'ers tried to do the job. I asked a lot of questions regarding these contractors and was able to gather that they A) didn't know their A$$ from a hole in the gound, and B) didn't have or weren't aware of the valuable resources like this board! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted March 25, 2004 Bryan, you should do a couple test patches to see how it will be, before you decide if you really want it. For myself, I don't get into jobs like this one. I will solid stain it, or walk from it. I don't have the patience to put in the hours that could come of it. Plus if you have to get into the methylene chloride strippers, you're looking at some really toxic stuff. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 paul-uk 500 Report post Posted March 25, 2004 how about suggesting a two tone job...then you can concentrate on the patchs on the boards and paint the uprights...... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 CompletelyClean 14 Report post Posted March 26, 2004 It's a good friend of mine (he didn't get a discount, either), so I really want to get this job done and done right. I have to admit there is a bit of ego on the line here, too. Two other contractors couldn't get it done right, so I want to be the one that succeeds. I realize I may get snake bit, but I haveto give it a shot. Stay tuned for pictures and the conclusion... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 herbie1 14 Report post Posted March 26, 2004 You may want to try sandblasting off the varnish. Of course you will need a blaster and an air compressor but you won't get poisoned either. Herbie Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted March 26, 2004 Paul, Two toning would be a great option, if the customer will go for it. It's much easier to get the floor looking good, but the pesky spindles can be tough. The ornate spindles are the worst. They almost always fur up when using strong strippers, even when the pressure is moderate. I wash all decks with a 2509 tip, which gives me about 750psi max. Even that, or less can make spindles look like wooden porcupines. Here's my take on using BIX..... I'm confident BIX will do a fine job disolving the finish. But you still have to scrape off all the toxic goop on every square inch of the deck. Where do you plan on disposing of several gallons of toxic ooze? You know what happened to the Ninja Turtles. You are still going to have to wash the deck, because you can't leave any film or remnants from the BIX before you stain. Now when you actually wash the deck, where is all the toxic runoff going to go? I'll tell you where.....all over everything within 10 feet! No matter how much you rinse, you've still deposited that methylene chloride (spelling?) all over the ground. IMHO, BIX is more suitable for use in a controlled environment, like stripping an old dresser in your garage. It's not for large outdoor structures that kids and pets will be using right after you're done. I'm hoping that Mean Papa will jump in here with his .02 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted March 26, 2004 Bryan, Here are pix of a two tone. The deck had several coats of a dark colored Behr product. I don't know which exact product. The spindles would not come clean enough to allow for a typical staining. It wasn't the finish you're dealing with, but still it had to be done two tone to be cost effective for the customer. He did not want to spend the extra $$ for what it would have taken to hand sand the railings. I'm just trying to point out an option if the finish ends up getting the best of you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 CompletelyClean 14 Report post Posted March 26, 2004 Thanks, Tony. If it becomes my choice, I will opt for the two tone. I've printed your picture and will show to the customer. In fact, the color of the house in your picture is the EXACT same color as their house! Question...what is the process for future stripping on the floor baords when it comes time to redo them? How do avoid strippingthe railings/spindles? Cover th plastic? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Brian Keating 14 Report post Posted March 26, 2004 Bryan, If your going to repaint them I would strip the railings/spindles to get any loose varnish and dirt off before painting. Make sure you prime with an oil based primer before painting. The thing you need to protect is the floor when painting the rails. I would recommend using a brush but if you spray them make sure the whole floor is covered or you will be sanding over spray off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted March 27, 2004 Bryan, You do have to give the deck a good wash to remove all the loose materials, but you won't get it all. If you effectively could, then you wouldn't have to two-tone. Up to this point, I've done at least 15 two-tones, and I've never primered any one them. Furthermore, none have experienced premature failure, and I know this because I've gone back to look at them, and a couple I've had to re-do the semi-trans on the floor. For the deck in the pictures above, believe it or not I used Behr solid stain, because that is what was used on the house, and it was still in perfect condition. The homeowner had a partial can in the garage and I was able to obtain the recipe for the color, and have more blended. The match was perfect. I've used HD house brand with good success, and Olmpic solid with no problems. I did my shed with Benjamin Moore solid stain, and it worked well, but cost $30 gallon, which is too much. I did not like the Wood Pride brand supplied by ICI Dulux, it had poor coverage. Be aware that if you ever solid stain a deck floor, no matter what you do, it will not last well, mainly because the floor flexes too much, eventually causing splits in the finish, and premature failure. Railings however, do not experience that problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 CompletelyClean 14 Report post Posted April 17, 2004 Well folks, the jury's back! I went to do a couple of test patches today on this nasty finish. I went armed with Remove-All's paint & varnish stripper (Methylene Chloride based) and my favorite sodium hydroxide based deck stripper. I still don't know what the finish was, but the Sod. Hyd. did just as good of a job as the Remove-All. Better, actually because it is WAAAY easier to apply. Needless to say, I now have another happy customer to add to my list. I REALLY felt good about the fact that 3 contractors had tried and failed to strip this deck before me. I KNOW I'll be getting a TON of referrals from this one! As Tony likes to say..."the proof is in the pudding". Thanks again for all your help, especially you, Tony. Your constant support is always appreciated Sensai! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
What's the best method to remove varnish or a latex sealer like Thompsons from wood, specifically Cedar?
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