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Jeff

how to restain decks ???

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congrats on new bb beth looks nice

question for all. I'll be pwashing a expensive home soon. They have multi level decks and front porch & stairs. Home owners mentioned they may be restaining decks soon. I have very little knowledge in wood cleaning and staining. The decks are huge on a stilt home. rough guess is 1500- 2000 sqft of deck not including railings.Deck is in good shape stain is peeling a little bit. the wood looks like pine from underneath the stain is cedar color .I think it may be semi solid stain and it looks like it popped off in trafic areas instead of just worn off also worn alittle..Also in very small areas it looks like it may be turning gray were its thin. If homeowner uses same product as whats on it can I just restain it. and how should I prep it wash it. I'd like to get this restainjob this house is beautiful. it would look great in photo album

what do you charge for restaining sq ft not including materials,should i brush and roll spray or what I dont have spray rig could rent I'm a little wary of overspray house is on ocean marsh and is windy at times:confused:

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Jeff,

Is it a glossy looking stain or a dull looking stain? Any way you can find out about it?

HD-80 will strip just about anything off, but if they have painted it, it takes some but not all paints off. If they have a deck stain on there, you're safe with HD-80 and Citralic to brighten.

You can apply with a pump up sprayer, and use a spray shield to break the wind flow.

Sure hope this helps. Also, I have heard ong the street that stripping charges run anywhere from 1.20 per sq. ft. to 2.40 depending on what you're stripping. Some things take longer than others, the dwell time can vary, and time is money.

Beth

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Pretty sure its latex semi solid stain .I don't want to strip it for the most part stain is in good shape.I want to know if I can just recoat decksTHANKS

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Latex...are you sure it's not paint?

Normally, to apply another coat, you will want to give it a gentle wash with a percarboante cleaner like EFC-38, then you can recoat it. I would check to see how many coats and what the product is if you can, since you don't want too many layers on the wood. After a point, you'll need to strip and recoat.

Beth

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definitly not paint it is a stain. I have the house washing I want to upsell to the deck.one coat is on there now its only probably a few year old house. If they have stain leftover from original staining I'll know what it is

if it is latex semi solid what do you charge to apply sqft

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Depends on the the cost of the product, and the way you're applying it as to what you'll want to charge. Figure out your costs.... then figure out how long it's going to take to do it. How much do you want or need to make an hour? That's the type of thing I look at. Also you need to factor in all your operating expenses as overhead for a percentage of the job... lots of folks neglect that.

We charge different prices for differnt products we apply, based upon easy/difficulty of application and cost of product.

Beth

p.s. you need to know what's on the can before you try to strip it....

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I cannot stress this enough.....

You must test.....test......test......Prior to taking on or even giving a price for this job.

I didn't do that last summer and paid the price....

It was the "Deck From Hell" The "Stain" was "Super Deck Acrylic Latex" White two coats. Nothing....I repeat....Nothing was taking it off...HD-80 didn't even touch it. I know HD-80 is a great product but for this I might as well have been trying to strip it with soap.

I ended up cleaning it then putting on another coat. This was at the owners request, since I was getting ready to just refund the money paid, take my loss and walk away.

So I repeat.... Test .... Test.....Test

Just my thoughts on the matter.

:cool:

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Howard, I have got to tell you, you found the ONE thing that has given it a run for it's money. I still have to wonder.... and we'll probably get some of the product and do a test here with it. It takes off some acrylics... Like Wolman Extreme.

Beth

:confused:

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I agree, and don't get the wrong idea I'm not, or didn't intend to knock HD-80. I think the key word here with what I got into is "LATEX". The Super Deck Solid Deck Stain is an Acrylic Latex.

When you do try the super deck and find something that will strip it, please let me know

So if I stepped on any toes I apologize.

Howard

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I've had a couple encounters with acrylic latex and found that HD-80 takes off 50% at best. That may not sound so good, but consider that Wolmans Deck Strip at full strength removed almost none of the stain.

I also tried TWP's Safe Strip, which did nothing.

I'm not knocking any products, but rather reporting the results I achieved.

The railings have been the problem. I don't think it's a dwell time issue as much as the stain on the verticals was in better shape to start with, no wear, no uv damage. The floors were peeling really bad, but still required two stripper applications before I was satisfied with the results.

Two of the acrylic latex decks I restored ended up going with a two tone, latex on railing, and semi-trans on the floor. It came to the point where hand sanding was the only option to restore the railings, and quickly got too expensive. Hence the two tone.

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Hi Howard,

Hydroxide based products are not extremely reliable on latex based stains... we run into the same problem with our TimberPro line. The best resolution for latex is a product like Back To Nature or even something off the shelf in regards to a paint stripper.

Take Care,

Greg

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i have not stripped a deck with this type of sealer on it yet but here is my thought.

Has anyone ever stripped vynial wallpaper?

They sell a little gizmo called the PAPER TIGER.

It has little rollers under it that have teeth/pins that punture the paper as you roll it around the paper. This allows the chem to get past the waterproof paper and get to the glue where the chem has the correct effect.

I think that the HD80 just cant get to the wood to breakdown the langlin/dead wood so you can strip it.

I think HD80 works because of the chemisty of the wood not the chemisty of the finnish.

I wonder if some kind of spiked roller would effect the usefullness of the HD80 in cases that are stated in the above post's.

The spikes could be more like the tip of a knife and rolled WITH THE GRAIN to min. damage to the wood.

Anyone think im on track here or way off base?

You could have a shr-flo pump set-up that coated the roller with chem as you roll it. It would need to be weighted. Maybe a cylinder that you fill with water?

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I like your thinking ron. We have encountered some latex jobs that just wouldn't come up 100% without mechanical removal. We had one yesterday that was peeling badly on much of it but the areas that were stable wouldn't come up easily at all. These require a different stripper all together... who wants to strip a deck 5 times.

Find an ICI delux nearby and by a gallon of Hydrostrip. This is Napiers Removall under the ICI name.

Greg

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Actually, yesterday we learned from Russell that HD-80 does effect the chemistry of the sealer, which it why the sealers will fail and melt when they come into contact with it. It effects the petroleum base in the sealer.

Beth

P.S. Yesterday everything went well, and the soap nozzle for rinsing was all that was used at first to blow off the pallet. The only thing that Rod needed to put a little pressure to was the Wolman Extreme, and it sliced right through it and flew off the board. That one won't just rinse, you have to help lift it after it separates is the best way I can describe what I saw.

It's acrylic, but it was a little different in how you worked the product. For other acrylics, it may not be the solution, but I'll bet you dollars to donuts Extreme Solutions is working on something that will do it for you.

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