Solid Stain Strip

[Gutter Squad 14]

Here are some pics of a test patch that I did on a deck quote about an hour ago. Sorry for the low quality, my digital camera battery was dead (so I used my phone's camera). I am curious if you guys think that this will come up well enough to do a semi-transparent (with minor sanding).

I planted a seed for the customer about a semi-solid in the event it did not strip well. They don't care - they just want it to look better.

It came up better than I thought it would. Used HD-80 at 10 oz to a gallon ratio. Let it dwell for about 5 minutes (and did scrub a little). It is about 52 degrees here as well. The test spot was in a corner that seems to not get sunlight and is less exposed to the weather due to an overhang.

I also did the bottom of a spindle nearby and had similar results - little bit of stain down in the grain, but not very noticeable. I told them those probably would not come out without sanding. I also suggested replacing the spindles.

Edited April 11, 2009 by Gutter Squad

[Tegrey 121]

Aqua,

I agree with everything you said. I would really try to talk the customer into a solid stain. Going from solid to semi = $$$. The price should double to tripple. We have done too many solid to semis and they are no fun. Also you are damaging the integrity of your wood. Common sense says stay with a solid and live with it. Replacing the spindles will save you tons of work and the HO the same amount of $. If they insist, give them the fair price for your profit. It would be better to not do the job and loose $ vs. doing it and loosing $. My 2 cents. Thank you.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

In our experience, stripping a solid stain was one thing, getting it out of the cracks and crevices was another. Making it look natural with any transparent-semi transparent stain was impossible without changing the boards.

The best option is to apply another solid but a natural wood tone in the browns range would work.

Don't know what your customer is looking for but I have to agree with Terry. The spindles would be a royal one for your stripping enjoyment.

Rod!~

[Greg R 82]

I agree..... getting a white or light colored solid out of all the nail/screw holes and checks is nearly impossible. You might look at Cabot Decking Stain - it's about 80% opaque and holds up pretty well on the floors. Be carefull how tight you sand the floor out though as the stain won't penetrate well.

[Tonyg 14]

The last one I tried to strip down from a blue/green solid to a WT semi-trans it turned into a huge disappointment. I had the HO, and myself, excited about how it was going to look but ended up with a tremendous amount of work only to have to go with a green semi-solid.

After two very strong strips there was a blue tint left between the boards and on spots here and there that just would not come out. Blue tint under WT WHG would have been terrible so I ended up having to sand it back out from such heavy strippers just to cover it back up with a green.

[Gutter Squad 14]

Another question - I've never put a dark semi-solid over something light before. If I'm able to get it to a point where the light remnants are just in those hair thin cracks, will a dark semi-solid correct the color in those areas... or are they going to be really noticeable?

This is something the customer wants to do now (they have some kind of gathering happening in early May) - I advised them they would need to go dark. A neighbor has a deck a couple houses away finished in a very dark nutmeg-like color and recommended something along those lines.

I think I can get most of this stuff up - it was not put on very thickly by the original owner of the property. Should I steer them to another solid in a better wood like tone? I have actually already quoted the job - with two different options...

1. Strip and actually be able to apply a semi-soild.

or

2. Strip and apply another solid.

I think I'm just rambling at this point. This deck has me thinking a lot. I've tried taking off solids a few times before (not for customers, though) and they didn't come up nearly as easily as this stuff did (or at all).

[Chappy 138]

I have never used a semi solid. But I agree with the above sentiments. You wont get the solid from the cracks and checks. I dont know how a semi solid would cover. But heres an example of wood that had a solid over an acrylic. Severe splintering and cracking, and no way to get even half of the old stuff off.

Applied Cabots problem solver then Cabots solid Alkyd. I didnt like his choice of color but it came out as smooth as humanly possible. I still wouldnt walk on it barefoot though.