mlaurenza 14 Report post Posted August 5, 2009 I recently purchased a used Alkota hot watre pressure washer. When the pump reaches full pressure the blow off valve releases all the pressure from the blow off valve. The guy I bought it from said that the bypass valve was recently replaced... any suggestions? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Russ Johnson 141 Report post Posted August 5, 2009 Does it pop off while spraying or when the gun is released? Could be the unloader is set too high or the pop off is not set high enough or is bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlaurenza 14 Report post Posted August 5, 2009 If I let go of the trigger and let pressure build thats when it blows out of the pop off valve...I tried to screw the unloader up and down and I get the same result.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul Kassander 26 Report post Posted August 5, 2009 sounds like you need to adjust the pop off valve. Plus you should re-adjust your unloder to its proper position with a gauge. If you over tighten it this can cause the system to over pressurize as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlaurenza 14 Report post Posted August 5, 2009 Without the risk of sounding like an idiot....how do I adjust the pop off, and unloader valves and what kind of guage would I use...and what would be the proper pressure... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
COOPER 14 Report post Posted August 5, 2009 Is the unloader kicking into bypass when you release the trigger? If not you probably have a bad unloader. If it has a pressure gauge, check to see what the pressure gets too BEFORE the pop off valve "pops off". If it is a lot higher than the machine is rated for then you probably just need to turn the knob(if it has one) down on the unloader. If it doesn't have a knob then loosen the bolt at the top and (unless its a zk1 or k5 unloader) turn it counter clockwise. If its one of the above unloaders turn it clockwise. If the pressure doen't get much more than the rating on the machine, then you either have a bad unloader or the pop off valve needs adjustment. Most time the pop off can be adjusted with an allen wrench. Just turn it clockwise a little (maybe a half turn) and try it again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry 24 Report post Posted August 7, 2009 VERY IMPORTANT !!... Whenever you guys see a problem like this, in a new-guys hands, start with this.. 1. RED-TAG unit, so no one will try to use it when you're not lookin'. 2. SAFETY devices do their jobs... they react when something is wrong... That means something ELSE is wrong. You have to fix that FIRST, and without hurting your self, nor “adding stress” to the system. Go directly back to the operating instructions, and troubleshooting guides that should have been provided with the equipment, even if you got it used.. My website will have that information ready to print our by this weekend. Just call or e-mail info@pressurewasher.net for a free copy. 3. If the relief re-sets itself, at proper system "safety-setting", you've just proven the valve works, well. don't go throwin' it away... Inspect it for corrosion, and make sure the check-ball is stainless, or nylon. ...NEVER settle for one with a rubber ball. Eh? ..they cut, the first time the water rushes past. That’s the one that doesn’t re-seat itself even when it’s new. Right? 4. Before you fire-up any system with a relief issue, see if there is a “troubleshooter” at the local pressure washer service center, and bounce a few symptoms off of him, and make sure what he says makes sence. Then, when you get there, show him some respect by adding a pressure gauge to the order if the system doesn’t already have one... Making it easy for people to help you, is always noticed, and costs you LESS. Eh? and better yet, let him install it for you, showing you his test results... spike-pressure 'n all. 5. Let's itemize possibilities... and there's a lot of ‘em... some include.. a. Unloader-regulator is set too high, and a nozzle is partially clogged. b. Unloader seals are "sticky" and/or damaged from bypass-over-heat issues. c. Somebody just put a new unloader valve on, and didn’t understand adjustment procedures, or worse, connected it wrong…. The bypass has to bypass. Eh? d. The heater could be over-heating. ...especially in Summer months... RED-tag that heater too !.. WHEN- EVER you have flow problems, do NOT turn on the heater, unless it's the 4th of July, and you completely understand the effects of a steam-explosion. Eh? Everybody has their safety glasses on anyway, right ? anyway.. e. Go back to that heater, and make SURE the controls are also working perfectly ! …Heaters cause pump problems too ! …a sticky flow-switch can “change” your day. A pressure switch, shouldn’t even be “allowed” to control a heater, unless it is “to back-up” a flow switch, for better safety, and longer-term-lower-cost. And, be ready to replace that pressure switch every 9 to 12 months… they don’t last nearly as long as flow switches. And remember a pressure switch “allows any old pressure” to turn the heat on… a leaky quick-coupler will cause that ! Back to your test results so far... you have proven the unloader is NOT unloading !! replace it with a good one. Unloders fail for several reasons too. ...so call me. It’s hard to know “everything”. ASK LOTS of questions before you buy your next system ! In a recession, know your friends, know your competitors, know your suppliers, know your equipment, and Focus on “the elimination of weakness” (and self-perpetuating-mistakes) like not buying “cheap”. Jerry McMillen President, Cleaning System Specialists, Inc. dba www.PressureWasher.net manufacturer of Sirocco Performance Vacuums, the VacuBerm, and… BullDogPro Industrial Pressure Washers the ultimate in reliability call 619-448-8111 e-mail to… info@PressureWasher.net Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
