Armstrong Clark Ranger Brown Two-Tone

[Tonyg 14]

Here is a very old and worn out deck that I finally was able to get to do. I had been wanting to try to do a couple of semi-transparent stain variations in a two-tone - semi/semi not semi/solid.

Did them last week and was able to see one today which is in AC Ranger Brown. This little deck was in worse condition than I had originally thought but the boards did become fairly presentable. I did replace the 1x4 perimeter boards since they were deteriorated so I wanted to see how the two-tone would work out.

This color is a combination of RB/CS and RB/CS/Na. I did my own shed which is in Cyprus with a little PT deck on the front and it looks really nice. I will gets some pics soon. On older boards it gives a nice brown color as what I think is a better option than the RB. I replaced two of the deck boards here and it blended in great with a little modification. On newer wood and Cyprus the cedar really shows through and has a nice orange tint.

The deck was so bad that I don't think many stains would have looked great but what do you think of a semi/semi two tone?

Edited September 21, 2009 by Tonyg

[RPetry 564]

Daniel,

The bottom brown is not bad, and the reddish brown next to it looks ok on mahogany. The other colors are not to my taste.

BTW, that mahogany does not look ready for staining.

[plainpainter 217]

Daniel,

The bottom brown is not bad, and the reddish brown next to it looks ok on mahogany. The other colors are not to my taste.

BTW, that mahogany does not look ready for staining.

I applied those colors after the customer attempted to strip and brighten the deck himself. I did those colors at that point just to get the ball rolling with ordering. I restripped it and brightened after that photo. But it was a nasty overapplication of ATO - and even then needed a severe sanding to look decent even after I had stripped it.

[PressurePros 248]

ATO and Wood Tux are the most brutal strips. I would guess its the short oil that cures like a rock. (Tung)

[plainpainter 217]

ATO and Wood Tux are the most brutal strips. I would guess its the short oil that cures like a rock. (Tung)

Interesting - I wouldn't have thought woodtux to be a hard strip? That's what I haven't heard over the years - and the dribbles on the side of a can that are year and two years old are still goobery. Unlike ATO and other tung oil based stains - which have rock hard dribbles on the side of a can. Does woodtux have tung oil resins?

The stripping on this deck was my bad - I was lazy and downstreamed F-18 at 24ozs/gallon - which turned out to be 3 ozs/gallon by the time it came out of the gun - which is wholly unsuited for stripping ATO, even it was previously stripped by a customer. HD-80 mixed at 8 ozs/gallon and applied via a pump-up on my other mahogany deck in your other thread ken - came off pretty good, except in a few spots {underneath railing and right in the corner underneath some roofing}

I think by far the absolute hardest strip which technically should start being approached by paint strippers is that Sherwin Williams oil based toner product - that stuff is like trying to lift silicone caulking - it's an utter mess!

Three sequential applications of HD-80 boosted with extra surfactants and glycol - just barely gets the job removed.

[PressurePros 248]

Dan, when I get home I will dig up some pictures of Wood Tux strips. Even after sanding the wood isn't totally clean.

[RPetry 564]

Dan, when I get home I will dig up some pictures of Wood Tux strips. Even after sanding the wood isn't totally clean.

Ken,

There's some great news. Hope S. Lane and his Princeton ipe' rots in *ell!

Arggg, wait a minute. We did a large Wood Tux red mahogany deck in Spring of 2008. Its located about 600 yards from my house, can't duck this one. Hmm..., next Spring is booking up!

[PressurePros 248]

Rick, you can do maintenance on them and on hardwoods, stripping is not bad. The hardest species to remove the Tux from is cedar. Here is a picture after running a floor sander over it. I'll add the second pic so you can see the sander to know I am not BS'ing.

[RPetry 564]

Ken,

Yeah, cedar yet again. It is a challenging wood. But for an "oil", the old Tux should have stripped out better than that. Only used straight Tux on one mahogany, one sm. PT, and one ipe' deck, never on cedar.

We have used a 2/3rds RS, 1/3 Tux mix on two small mahogany jobs. Did a 2 yr. maintenance this year on both of them, they held up well, bleach cleaned, and reapplied the same mix. Maintenance was a breeze. Have about 5 gals. of Tux left, have to find a use for it!