Unloader Question

[Rick2 42]

I never really think about unloaders much, just crank them up when doing surface work then return the setting when finished. Well, one of my machines started acting up yesterday. First it started making that sound when there isn't enough supply water getting to the pump. Then it started blowing a thin stream of water through the middle of the unloader valve knob. Weird eh? I don't know what kind of unloader it is, it just says "Made in Italy" and it's on a cold water General 30/40.

I imagine it's time for a new unloader but is one really better than the others? Also, how do you set up the new unloader after it's been installed? I know there are some type of adjustments for a new unloader but I have never done it before.

[TNRoofCleaner 16]

You need a pressure gauge and adjust to the pressure setting with the gun open.

[Rick2 42]

Any reason why it's blowing water through the top of the valve? It looks kind of funny, like a whale.

[Guy B 70]

O-ring prob gone, if you change out unloader, don't go with the same kind pictured. down streamer built in (No No), if the down streamer craps out unloader no good????

[ECS MARK 19]

I suggest you replace with a UMR (Unloader Made Ready)

See page #34 top left of catalog.http://easycleansystems.com/PDF_Folder/ECS2010Catalog.pdf

You can get one of these or similar, from your local distributor probably.

[Jerry 24]

Reliability in unloaders and pumps is about the way you plumb the pump...

If it gets the "perfect water supply", it can live a long time between water seals. If you have a "bolt-on" unloader valve on a beefy pump, it's still a pile of crap for reliability... it can too easily overheat in bypass. Plumb it with the bypass to your water tank, and every pump can be reliable. the water flowing through the pump carries away heat from the plungers going in 'n out of the seals... if there's only a few ounces of water bypassing back to the inlet of the pump, it will overheat quickly, and scorch the seals in your pump and unloader valve. If the system is ONLY going to be "pressure-fed", get a "high-volume bypass line" (we use a 5/8" x 60" hose) with 30 ounces or more of water bypassing, so you can lay the wand down for a few minutes when you need to... the slower heat-up time also makes the thermal relief valve MUCH more accurate too !

Also.. NEVER adjust your unloader without a pressure guage.

e-mail me for a free copy of our "Unloader Install and Adjustment Guide".

[chris francis 15]

Jerry I just Looked at unloader you are talking about that is one beefy unloader and hose. How much is that unloader setup and how hard is it to replace them I have the same setup as Rick does one pump my other pump will start but shuts off when you pull the triger thinking bad seals or unlaoder but do not. I have question I want to learn how to rebuild or do feild repairs is there any books out there teach it.

[Jerry 24]

The common unloaders only last half as long on the rebuild as original..

Spending half the replacement-cost to do it, makes that all guesswork on reliability.

If you want reliability, replacement is the rule,

..and a spare on hand is certainly wise. Eh?

Few unloaders are "worth" rebuilding..

K7 is my favorite for rebuildabiliy, the AL609 is good, Giant 22913 is great.

You have to spend more to get these, but your business IS an investment, right??

"Get over" buying cheap, and you can enjoy "Long-Term-Low-Cost".

I will say this about pressure actuated unloaders..

the first failure, is usually the outlet check valve.. and an easy fix..

It hides inside the outlet fitting of the unloader, and has an o-ring on it.

In order for the unloader to unload, the outlet check valve has to trap pressure..

That's why ANY leak in the high-pressure side of the system

makes your unloader "cycle".. which is very hard on the system, and dangerous

if you have a pressure switch (instead of a Flow switch) controlling your heater.

The very FIRST time you notice your pressure "cycling" with the gun off,

check that o-ring, and make sure the valve can work properly..

You may be extending its life by MANY months.

Another reminder..

the first rule of pumps ..is give it the "perfect" water supply.

The 2nd rule, is NO LEAKS anywhere, any time..

No dripps on the inlet side, NO drips at the connect hoses, or hi-psi fittings,

NO bleeding out the gun,

NO leaking hose reel swivels.

..and back to the "better" unloaders..

FLOW-actuated versions are NOT affected (nearly as much) by leaks.

FLOW-actuated versions don't have an outlet check valve to fail.

FLOW-actuated versions are BEST. period.

I'm just disappointed the control manufacturers don't make 'em for 4000psi

over 4gpm, ..with an affordable price.

Edited July 7, 2010 by Jerry
add-ins

[Rick2 42]

Thank's for all the input on unloaders, there sure is a lot more to them than I thought. I think I'm just going to drom the whole thing off at the shop and have them repair whatever is wrong. I believe I'd just make it worse if I tried it myself. That's what I tell my customers when they ask if it's worth it to powerwash the job themself.

[John Orr 206]

Any reason why it's blowing water through the top of the valve? It looks kind of funny, like a whale.

The water is actually blowing from the downstream injector, which is built into the unloader. Most likely, the spring has sprung.

[Rick2 42]

It was comming straight through the center of the knob of the unloader.