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Medic442

where to buy shurflo pump

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I read a post about building your own shuflo pump. I have looked and called every body in St. Louis for one. They all say the same... we never heard of... vitrohama what???? You have to buy that from Granger. (great if you have an account)

Can anybody give me a place to buy the pump? I think i want the 120 volt.

Thanks for the help

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In my opinion the Decker Topper is much more versatile than a regular shureflo pump. It also has viton seals and is adjustable so you have more control when spraying sealer. Beth sells the 12 volt version in her store but I think she can get a 110 volt also.

A sureflo set up is great and a cheaper way to get started if you are low on cash, but for just a little more money you might as well have the best.

Orshlens Farm and Home Stores often carry surefloe's along with hose and spray wands.

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Northern Tool has the best prices. I bought a 3 gpm shurflo from them for 49.00 plus shipping. I actually ordered the 1.8 gpm, but they made a mistake and sent me the 3 gpm instead. What are you planing to use the surflo for? Giving advice on how to set it up really depends on what you plan to use it for.

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I looked at northern tools and i did not see a 120 volt pump. I think they only sold the 12 volt. I do not feel like dealing with the batteries. I want to be able to put down chems and seal on my deck and the growning list of family decks.

Strange how that happens.... you tell them you are starting or planning to start a pw biz and the next thing you know... i have this you can "practice" on. That is ok.. family and they are willing to let me practice..

I was planning on putting down some stripper on my deck or sealer.

I know the 12 pumps are cheaper but i really do not want to mess with the batteries.

Thanks for the help guys.

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Shur Flo makes many different pumps, some can handle chemicals, some can't, some are 12volt some aren't and many GPM/PSI models so you need to know just what you are going to use it for before buying.

I would also ask Beth if she can get them. Prices start around $75 up to hmm, couple hundred.

Go here and check them out and enjoy the time spent reading.

http://www.shurflo.com/

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You can buy an AC/DC converter for a few bucks from almost any store that sells electronics (Best Buy, Radio Shack, Circuit City, Waldamnmart, etc.). Just splice it into a cheap extension cord (by cheap I mean one with thin wires so you don't lose much current) and you will be good to go as long as you do a good job splicing it and then putting enough electrical tape to seal the connections from water. Clip the female end of the cord and rig any type of connection you want to a 12 volt pump (direct permanent connect, alligator clips, etc.).

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HI guys, never posted anything before but after reading Ryans reply I felt compelled to do so. In my spare time I also work as a union electrician (LU58)

so I picked up on a common misconception by alot of people. To reduce the current flow as Ryan suggests you would actually want a cord with a heavier conductors such as a #12 or even better a #10. Cords with "tiny" wires #14,#16

actually restrict current flow.The best way to understand electricity and how it works for you is to use what I refer to as my "plumbing theory" of electricity.Voltage is pressure, Current is flow, the size of the wire or conductor is the same as the size pipe the the flow travels thru. So having said that its easier to understand that to do a given amount of work you are better off with larger pipes, it allows more flow without having to increase pressure. This is why

the the lower the voltage the higher the the current will be to do the same amount of work. Such as 12V vs. 120v, to perform the same task the 12v pump

would require approx. 10 times the current flow as the 120v pump and so on. Forgive me for rambling but the bottom line is as far as cords go for any application bigger is better.

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LJ Long,

Thanks for pointing that out. I guess I was thinking that a larger wire acted as a bigger resistor and would restrict flow....makes sense though that given a larger pipe the electrons can flow more freely.

Here's something I never understood.....why are larger wires given smaller gage (sp?) numbers? Things like that have always made my brain spin.

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I would not recommend the shurflo for sealant application.

Here's why....

I spent an entire afternoon at orschlens turning my 1.2 gpm 60 psi 12v into a sealant sprayer. I tried the step up wand for 36 bucks and tried forever to find a fan pattern for it, but finally decided to use the regular adjustable tip. I finally got it home and tried it with some wood tux. It pumped fine, but the bottom line is even 1.2 gpm is wayyy to much for anything but the floor, and the pattern is wayy more wasteful for anything but the floors. one gallon was gone before I knew it (50 seconds to be exact) and the pattern was crap. If anyone has ever been able to adjust the flow on a shurflo let me know!! None that I have ever seen can be turned down.

I would recommend to go with a decker or an airless and plastic the heck out of everything, 10 feet on allsides (including underneath if applicable). I got my airless 4 years ago at home depot for $380 and haven't had any problems, even with overspray because of plastic and masking tape, both obtained at Walmart and Sam's and passed on to the customer. A Decker is next on my purchase list because I hear it has a lot less overspray. Even with a decker it is probably still a good idea to plastic a bunch.

Optimally you might want a decker for right now. My airless comes in handy pretty soon on a barn painting side project for a local farmer though.

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Nick

I have to disagree with you about the shur flo pumps for spraying sealant.I've been in spraying with shur flo's for over 7yrs and I've sprayed 300Lft of 7'high fence in under 2 hrs 2 coats.I use an oil base stain that has lots of solids in it and have NO problems spraying the stain .It's filtered from the pick up tube and on the tip.

On the top of the pump there is a preasure switch you adjust pressure with an allen wrench.

So i use shurflo's for chems and all my staining cause i use only 1 type of stain a semi no solids stains where a ariless may be needed.

This is my set up works like a charm I've also sprayed a 6000 sqft deck in under 8 hrs one pump.

Also Nick you need a diff tip my smallest i use is a 500033 i think from spraying system Inc.I can spray and barely get any over spray takes forever but great for spindles on railings.:cool:

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A close up of the trigger and tip i use on my 4 ft wand that i love to spray fences with.

Do airless sprayers only have that little trigger or do they have an extension cause i've never used one b4?

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Seymore, I know of the pressure switch, but when I turn the pressure down, the switch wears out much more quickly because it cycles on and off. I've had to replace two of them because it was adjusted incorrectly. I have never done any projects as big as you describe, fences etc. The decks I do are usually no bigger than 1000 ft2 total. The real problem I had was finding a good tip for the shurflo handle. Yes, the airless does have an extension which comes in pretty handy on the floors. I couldn't get the control I wanted from the shurflo tip or handle I tried. when it comes to needed volume for huge projects like that, I think I could use a shur-flo, but the airless does a beautiful job when you need control for railings.

I'm itchin' to buy a decker because of it's flow control and patterns. I think it would be the best of both worlds: low overspray of the shurflo and controllability of the airless.

Nick

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Nick

Are you turning the pressure down to get very little overspray?

The tips are the key the smaller the tip the more expensive they are by the way up to $10 a tip

I know the pressure switchs are set from the factory"what PSI i'm not sure" and usually i break them in for a little while.Over time and feel of the preassure i adjust accordingly.

1- 2 full turns clockwise at a time is usually enough.I usually need more pressure when i'm doing fences.

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