Removing Thompsons

[CCPC 26]

I have a deck that I need to strip and stain. The deck is only about 5 months old and the Thompsons that had been applied twice, by the company who built the deck, is, of course, allready looking like crap. It is not a clear thompsons seal, but instead one with some redish brown pigment.

Will I need to use a stripper such as HD-80 to remove this type of Thompsons finish or will a milder cleaner such as EFC-38 do the trick.

I want to do a excellent job on this deck because unlike most of the homeowners around here she is willing to pay for good quality. Actually, its kinda funny, I just posted a remark on another thread talking about how nobody in this area is willing to pay for quality wood restoration and about 15 minutes later this lady called. I think I must have angered the wood gods.:whoops:

here are a few pictures

[Russell Cissell 65]

EFC-38 at full strength with a dwell time of about 15 to 20 min would work well.

HD-80 at about half strength with a dwell time of about 15 min would also work well.

HD-80 at full strength would work with a dwell time of about 5 min, but that is overkill.

In either case, follow up with Citralic to really bring out the color of the wood. You can also use an oxalic acid neutralizer however this will leave the wood an unnatural whitish color.

I hope this helps

Best of Luck

Russell Cissell

[CCPC 26]

Thanks Russell.

[Everett Abrams 501]

Clarification please, for me and other readers of this thread.

Stated: There is a finish that looks like crap.

Question: What to use to remove the coating?

EFC-38 is a percarbonated bleach product, correct?

If so how can you use or call this a product that will "remove or strip" a coating when a percarbonate usually doesn't do this?

HD-80 is a sodium hydroxide based stripper and most would think this the appropriate product.

As a general rule we often recommend new and grayed wood to use the bleach and any wood with a coating to use sodium hydroxide.

Is there more to this that I do not see and others may have the same questions or can you expand further.

Thanks Russell!

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Everett,

EFC-38 is MORE than just a percarb, it's got a little attitude. It is a light duty stripper as well. Remember the photos of me stripping a deck last summer? Well, I was using EFC, and taking off F&P.... Now under that F&P there waws Behr that we were not told about un a beige color. Thank goodness the pail of HD-80 was also in the truck, because the EFC didn't take the Behr.

Beth

[James 625]

Do a test spot. The only way to learn is to do a test spot s and to see what works.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Agree with you 100%.

[Aplus 525]

Thompsons has several different products, and I think they have changed some of their receipes.

I recently came across a deck with two coats of Thompsons wood toner, with the honey color. It appeared like any typical semi-transparent stain.

The Thompsons laughed at the HD-80, even at full strength, the stuff beaded off, even beyond 30 minutes dwell time.

This was the first time I was unable to remove a Thompsons product. When I get some free time I need to get over to the hardware and check this product out.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Tony makes an excellent point. It's not just the manufacturers brand name you have to be aware of, you have to know which product it is you are removing, or at least be able to tell when you are on a deck if it is an oil, an acrylic, or what. This makes all the difference in the world as to how it will turn out or how big of a pain in the butt it will be.

[CCPC 26]

Tony,

So what did you finally do about that deck? Did you find somthing that would remove it?

I'm pretty sure that's not whats on this deck, I hope. As far as test spots go, I was hoping to get some input from those of you who with a lot of wood restoration experience to help increase my chances of using the correct method from the get go. I had read on another thread that efc-38 could remove most of the thompsons products so I just wanted to see if anyone could confirm that. Even if it can, it seems the best method, in this case, is to just go ahead and use a Sodium Hydroxide based striper and call it day.

Thanks for all of the responces folks.

[Aplus 525]

Your best bet is to do a test spot and see what happens. Do a test on both verticals and horizontals. Then you will know what you are up against.

[CCPC 26]

The problem is I don't want to spend a couple of hundred dollars on chemical that I only need for the occasanial deck job. Meaning, buy one for 70.00 plus shipping, try it, realize its not going to work; buy another, try it, realize its not going to work, so on and so on. Now I've spent more money than the job is paying.

I realize that I test spot is the only way to know what will work FOR SURE, but the reason for this post is to gain some input from others on this site which may increase the likelyhood of getting what I need from the get go instead of wasting money on products that I might only use twice a year.

[Aplus 525]

If I were going to keep one chemical on hand for stripping decks, it would have to be HD-80. You can adjust the strength up/down as needed for each job. The EFC-38 is OK, but it's not the right chem for most situations. Of course don't forget you need a nuetralizer as well, be it oxalic or citric.

I understand what you are saying about keeping chems around you don't use often, but in this business you have to be ready for whatever task is at hand, and that means you need to keep many different chems on hand. It's the nature of the beast.

Maybe the first job you do with each chem is just a break even, but think of it that future jobs will have added profits since your chems will be paid for.

[CCPC 26]

Good points Tony. I have chems now that I don't use very often but when I need them I'm glad there there.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I spoke with a friend the other day wo used EFC on a CWF deck, used it at 4 oz per gallon, he thought the deck had two coats and was a year, maybe two old - homeowner applied. He only meant to clean. Not to strip.

EFC began to strip the CWF. It is a great cleaner and light duty stripper. But it is not just a plain percarbonate. Because it has a light duty stripper in it, it you should always neutralize behind it. (we beleive you should anyway - percarbs are alkaline too)

Rod typically uses his HD at about 6 oz per gallon. He rarely dials it up to the full 8. He lets it dwell al ong time and tests as he goes. I wish I could explain is methods better. Some of you have worked with him hands on and you see how he does it. Every now and then you get the killer deck that laughs at you. Had one last year, but came to find out it was paint under a coat of stain. It took the stain, but the acrylic latex paint underneath laughed at it. Isn't it funny how a homeowner can remember the paint selectively?

Beth