Burner and plumbing a buffer tank?

[rsrs 14]

I picked up a portable mi-t-m 3504 hot water pw for a good deal. I would like to mount this on a trailer with a buffer/float tank. Since the burner turns on and off in accordance with when the trigger is pulled, when I plumb the bypass backto the tank will the burner continue to burn? Not sure how the pressure sensor in the pump works. I will be using a small buffer tank (50-70 gallons).I don't want the burner to continue if no water is going through the coils. Any help would be appriciated.

[Russ Johnson 141]

The burner control should work the same whether you bypass to the pump, tank, or on the ground.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

The unloader will have a flow switch which turns on and off the burner.

When the unit is in by-pass mode, the burner is off and the water goes to the tank w/o being heated.

Rod!~

[Jerry 24]

I picked up a portable mi-t-m 3504 hot water pw for a good deal.

I would like to mount this on a trailer with a buffer/float tank. .. ..

.. .. I will be using a small buffer tank (50-70 gallons).. .. Any help would be appriciated.

Choose a tall tank, to maintain good water-feed to the head of the pump.

the easier the pump gets water, the longer the seals last (especially with a "high-speed" pump,)

and you also benefit from it having a small footprint.

we have a 44gl tank with 14 x 26" footprint. and there are float valves work fine

..as they bounce down the road.

you don't have to dual feed a 4gpm pump, but use at least 1" feed line,

with no "flow restricting" fittings.

[rsrs 14]

The unloader will have a flow switch which turns on and off the burner.

When the unit is in by-pass mode, the burner is off and the water goes to the tank w/o being heated.

Rod!~

I'll have to look closer at it when i get home, but I thought the sensor/switch was wired into the pump and not the unloader. I could be wrong though.

Robin

[rsrs 14]

Choose a tall tank, to maintain good water-feed to the head of the pump.

the easier the pump gets water, the longer the seals last (especially with a "high-speed" pump,)

and you also benefit from it having a small footprint.

we have a 44gl tank with 14 x 26" footprint. and there are float valves work fine

..as they bounce down the road.

you don't have to dual feed a 4gpm pump, but use at least 1" feed line,

with no "flow restricting" fittings.

Jerry,

So, do you think a 55 gallon drum would work, I was thinking of laying it on the side, but if I need the head pressure with it standing up that's what i'll do. Also when you mention duel fed do you meen feeding the pump from both inlet sides at the same time? If so would that help if I did use a shorter drum/tank?

[rsrs 14]

Here is a pic of the pump, is the small rectangle box in front of the pump the burner switch? The wire coming out of it goes to the main burner on and off switch. If so do I need to move that to the unloader.

[Russ Johnson 141]

The pressure switch will be fine where it is. When the unloader kicks out, the pump goes to zero pressure.

Get rid of that strainer, though. That is one of the most restrictive for suction applications. Get a 3/4" Y strainer, a 3/4" X 1/2" reducer nipple, and a 3/4" hose barb for your inlet.

[Jerry 24]

Jerry,

So, do you think a 55 gallon drum would work, I was thinking of laying it on the side,

.. but if I need the head pressure with it standing up that's what i'll do.

Also when you mention dual fed do you meen feeding the pump from both inlet sides at the same time?

If so would that help if I did use a shorter drum/tank?

I would use a skinnier drum if it's just a buffer-tank.

If you want to do quick demos out of it, get the 55.

Either way.. stand it up for head-pressure.

With less head pressure.. yes, dual feed the pump..

it's so easy, and the parts are SO inexpensive, just do it..

call it "trying" ..to increase your luck.

About that pressure switch..

it looks real old,

they normally only last a year,

they are inexpensive (like dual-pump-plumbing),

upgrading to a "Flow-Switch" would be even better,

and yes, these will increase your "luck".

..and ditto Russ on the filter..

most people find out too late that green-cap thing is a filter..

it's made from zinc and corrodes crazy-fast !

There's also a Blue-cap version, made from aluminum..

Bean-counters make stuff that fails too fast..

they think you are dumb enough to buy for price only.

Like Russ said..

stick with brass.

[rsrs 14]

Jerry or anyone smarter than I, which is probably most if not all reading this. I have finally got around to working on this little project and have a question about the buffer tank. Jerry and others has said since this is a direct drive pump I need a good supply for it. Here is what I hope will work ( just a mock up of what i have in mind). Take a sprayer tank(15 gallon , the one in photo is a 26 gallon) and set it up on a rack higher than the pump itself and use a short 1" supply hose(red in picture) to the pump. Bypass back to the tank. Under the rack would be storage for chemical tanks and jugs. I would have a float valve to keep the tank full when on site but would not have to drive around with it full.

1- Will this supply enough head pressure for a 3500 psi 3.5gal min pump to keep it from starving?

2- Will 15 gallons be enough bypass capacity to keep the pump from over heating if not spraying for several minutes?

3-Jerry had mentioned dual feeding the pump, I assume this means feeding from both inlet ports, so would I remove the thermal relief valve. And where would I put that?

4- If all of the above is ok, where is a good source for bulkhead fittings?

Thanks, Robin

Edited September 15, 2011 by rsrs

[Jerry 24]

Robin,

you have a text-book-perfect example so far,

of how to make seals last.

Call me for more. :)

[Russ Johnson 141]

Regardless whether you dual feed or not, lose the thermal valve. You won't need it bypassing back to your tank, and all it's going to do later is leak and suck air.