Trim Carpentry Question....deck/siding transition

[bigchaz 157]

This is on a new construction home that sat for a few years. Guess they never finished this portion. We stained the deck and I said I would do something about this gap between the siding and floor.

I've done some decks where there is a 2x2 up against the house but even in those cases the siding usually still goes to the bottom.

The gap here varies from 2" to 2 3/8". I thought I could just run a 2x2 but obviously that won't work (only 1.5"). How should this normally be finished? I feel like every deck I've done the siding goes down to the joist so I've never seen this before. I could rip down a 1x4 but with the space not being even that still leaves a pretty large gap on either the top or bottom. Any suggestions?

[bigchaz 157]

Its got the rubber flashing by the way, newer home so probably ACQ lumber

[Doug Black 18]

Paint trimmed wood to match, install as best as possible, fill spaces with backer rod, then caulk and paint again? That's all I've got for you atm. Haven't ever seen this before...

OR maybe( paint first) put asphalt concrete joint sticks around, tack them in with construction adhesive behind, caulk, repaint as needed?

AND post this on a renovation repair forum.... :D

Edited November 30, 2011 by Doug Black

[John.Harper 14]

i would take that last course of siding and the closest deck board to the house and put some real flashing in there for one and run the flashing down the joist thats up against that wall .. then rip some boards for that bottom course and put the other coarse up you originally took off .. or put that original coarse up and tuck the coarse your going to rip under it and face nail the original coarse with a trim nailer and lastly squeeze that deck board back in

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Install Custom made trim 1X_ to fit gap and paint the same color as house trim.

I suggest using pt lumber for it since it is at the base. Apply caulk to all exterior borders including those meeting the decking.

my .02

Rod!~

[bigchaz 157]

Thanks for the ideas guys. The flashing there should be sufficient since the metal stuff is not recommend anymore for the new PT lumber. With the way they gapped out the bottom course of siding I don't know if the 1x_ will sit even or be recessed in there but sounds like thats my best option. Cutting to follow the waviness of hat crazy gap will be fun.

Since the deck has already been stained, what kind of caulk do you use on an oil surface? Does clear silicone work? I normally re caulk before we stain so didn't know if it mattered.

Edited November 30, 2011 by bigchaz

[John.Harper 14]

nice to see someone my age going at it .. how long have u been in business

[RPetry 564]

Charlie,

That is very shoddy construction. Is the builder still in business? The owner should demand a decent finish to the work.

[Doug Black 18]

Charlie,

That is very shoddy construction. Is the builder still in business? The owner should demand a decent finish to the work.

Not at all uncommon in our area. You'll see all kinds of things from distressed builders.

[Doug Black 18]

Since the deck has already been stained, what kind of caulk do you use on an oil surface? Does clear silicone work? I normally re caulk before we stain so didn't know if it mattered.

I think it would; probably most any caulk really on a stained deck, but I haven't personally tried it. (as long as the stain has dived in good)

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Since the deck has already been stained, what kind of caulk do you use on an oil surface? Does clear silicone work? I normally re caulk before we stain so didn't know if it mattered.

You will need to sand the contact areas. There is no caulk that will adhere well to another product without an effect on the life expectancy.

Rod!~

[bigchaz 157]

Yea Rick I don't know the full story but I believe the house sat for a few years after construction before my customer bought it so good chance the builder bailed or ran out of money on it. Ironically the front porch is done right where floorboards lap to the siding so who knows.

John, I love this business (wood resto) and have been in it 5 years now. Started part time first year in college and graduated May 2010. Been full time since then.

Sent from my BlackBerry 8530 using Tapatalk

[bigchaz 157]

I did some of it today to see how it looks. Its flush with the siding but looks pretty clean so just need to paint it.

I guess either I go white and paint the caulk too or sand the floor and run clear on the raw wood. Thank you very much for the tips so far, I may need to try both ways and see what looks best

Edited December 1, 2011 by bigchaz
Second paragraph was confusing to read

[bigchaz 157]

All done. Glad I don't do this for a living haha. Looks real nice though, thanks again everyone. Sorry for the low light and camera phone pictures

[RPetry 564]

Well done Charlie. Maybe you should start a carpentry contracting company!

[James 625]

Well done.

[mattleo1 14]

All done. Glad I don't do this for a living haha. Looks real nice though, thanks again everyone. Sorry for the low light and camera phone pictures

Beautifully done. It looks like the work of a professional. Well you certainly know how to make the wrong, right

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Wonderful job!!!

Beth

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

One thing occurred to me, make sure the caulk is paintable.

If not, you may want to avoid applying to it as it will not cover.

Rod!~

btw-nice work.