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Chadclement1

Sanding after Stripper

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Hi, first post. I have 1400sqft twp stained cypress siding. I stained the 4"t&g siding new after occylic acid with twp dark oak. I wanted color on the new house.I figured if it failed I'll just restain it . 18 months later it looks ok but definitely absorbs water, has mold. It looks good under the eves where it has less exposure, but to my surprise has gotten darker as it gets lower. I used flood stain strip, brushed with stiff brush and pressure washed clean, it really ate the wood up and left it hairy. Was it the brush or pressure washer That ate it up? The real question.

What's the point of stripping if you're gonna have to sand any way?

Thank you!

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You could of just done a bleaching to get rid of the mold and re- stained. The Flood stripper was to strong for the wood and furred it up . Cypress doesn't take too much oil when new and gets better with

age for oiling

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I tested straight bleach, it did remove some mold but stain pigment was still there and when I stained over that it was too dark. Almost black, dark oak on dark oak.

Edited by Chadclement1

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... I used flood stain strip, brushed with stiff brush and pressure washed clean, it really ate the wood up and left it hairy. Was it the brush or pressure washer That ate it up? The real question. ...

Chad,

Interesting house. As Diamond Jim stated, it could be the strength of the stripper. But, hand in glove, using a coarse brush to scrub as well as too much water pressure is the perfect storm for degrading the surface of the cypress.

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Hi, first post. I have 1400sqft twp stained cypress siding. I stained the 4"t&g siding new after occylic acid with twp dark oak. I wanted color on the new house.I figured if it failed I'll just restain it . 18 months later it looks ok but definitely absorbs water, has mold. It looks good under the eves where it has less exposure, but to my surprise has gotten darker as it gets lower. I used flood stain strip, brushed with stiff brush and pressure washed clean, it really ate the wood up and left it hairy. Was it the brush or pressure washer That ate it up? The real question.

What's the point of stripping if you're gonna have to sand any way?

Thank you!

The chemicals caused the furring. The brushing/pressure washing played into it but I blame the chems.

TWP is not that tough to remove.

Now, the next question is: did you neutralize after you stripped the old stain off with oxalic acid?

If you didn't, the wood will still be alkaline and your color will not be true.

You may have to repeat the process, and then sand the wood or use a buffer with an osborn brush to remove the fuzzies.

Rod!~

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Thanks for the replies! The pic is from the first stain, I will neutralize before re stain.

I will try the stripper again cut with water and less dwell time. Will try hd 80 when i use up my current stripper. So if I get my stripp right ( the stain removed with the leat amount of damage) I can just buff? All I have is an RO 4" sander, looks like I need a buffing sander? Those brushes are expensive but worth it if I do this every 3 years. What about the 3m pads?

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Nice house not the style i remembered in La. but you have to love Cypress! I also agree a combo of stripper/brushing will make you fuzzy like a peach!

So you are wanting to use TWP again same color? If using TWP again I would never strip it like James said bleached and rinse or add some stripper to the bleach mixture to remove a little more color.It's not as harsh as stripper alone then brightened after rinsed real good.

Also if you not wanting the color so dark try re-staining with a lighter color over that Dark Oak .

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I can just buff? All I have is an RO 4" sander, looks like I need a buffing sander? Those brushes are expensive but worth it if I do this every 3 years. What about the 3m pads?

The 3m pads work well too but they deplete faster than an osborn brush. Plus, you must wear eye and respiratory protection when using either.

These tools generate a lot of dust and the 3m pads shed particles of itself as it wears out.

Rod!~

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