Garage Door Issue

[ScottsDecks 14]

Hey guys,

This is a T1-11 garage door with cedar trim. The previous finish was probably a varnish with a urethane coating. Needless to say, the hot sun put a beating on the urethane and it was peeling badly. I was able to strip the urethane with a gel stripper, and then sodium hydroxide to remove whatever varnish or "stain" was underneath it. The wood was neutralized with oxalic acid and de-felted with 3M buffing pads on a variable speed polisher.

After the tough strip the wood looked pretty good, as you can see in the pics, however once the preservative was applied (a mix of Bakers and TWP1500) it was obvious on a couple spots the glue would not allow the preservative to penetrate leaving the spots.

I'm not sure what to do at this point. I've tried sanding the spots, applying a darker preservative etc... My customer is not excited about removing the plywood, as it's glued to the back of a piece of sheet metal. Do any of you vets have any suggestions?

Thanks for the help,

Scott

[James 625]

Label the photos and scritical going on in each before I get critical.

[ScottsDecks 14]

Sure, the first and last three pics are after photos. The second is a restored, or after stripping and neutralizing photo.

Thanks,

Scott

[RPetry 564]

Scott,

Those garage doors are poorly constructed. T-111 is fine for sheds/barns, but I'd never consider its use on a large focal point of a house exterior. From a glance, the cedar also does not look to be of prime quality. What is unknown is why the cedar trim has not stained well.

From your stripped/unfinished #2 picture both the cedar and T-111 appear to be ready for staining. Looks good, with no old pigment left. However, with all the shiny, white, and mottled areas on the cedar after staining, I suspect that not all the urethane was removed and that some of it may be "in" the wood.

You mention that glue is also present on the surface. This may be near impossible to sand out, and trying by applying pressure may warm up and spread and drive the glue even deeper into the wood.

If these were my doors, I'd strip off the Bakers/TWP and get back to the #2 picture look. Clean, apply acid, and buff every few years to freshen to that new wood look.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Scott -

Strip the Bakers off, re-prep the door.

Apply a conditioner (see Minwax line or look at other acrylic lines)

Apply color coat.

Apply top coat.

The reason I say this, is that the "conditioner" is going to act as your CLEAR primer coat before the color. This gives you a chance to hide the flaws from the poly and get an even color application. It is also the reason I would stay away from the oils in this instance.

Beth

Edited December 19, 2012 by Beth n Rod

[James 625]

Scott I do a considerable amount of garage doors and they are probably the biggest pain in the sphincter . Small area many trips back in forth.. Once you get them down which takes a few times they are a nice reoccurring income source.

Looks like old sealer remains. T-11 wasn't buffed enough but was not a smart selection of a highend door. Oil is easier to maintain and protects the wood better over time.

Looks like the the way the weather hits the doors can be an issue . Sun and water kill garage doors mainly the bottom 1/3.

[seymore 90]

Scott -

Strip the Bakers off, re-prep the door.

Apply a conditioner (see Minwax line or look at other acrylic lines)

Apply color coat.

Apply top coat.

The reason I say this, is that the "conditioner" is going to act as your CLEAR primer coat before the color. This gives you a chance to hide the flaws from the poly and get an even color application. It is also the reason I would stay away from the oils in this instance.

Beth

That may be the only hope for that T1-11 to hide the flaws cause the oil will never stick in that area.That's gonna bite trying to strip fresh stain but that may be the only answer. I've seen some nice Minwax stains very nice colors.

Scott these are the doors I was thinking it was T1-11 but it's some knotty pine and all new.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

That may be the only hope for that T1-11 to hide the flaws cause the oil will never stick in that area.That's gonna bite trying to strip fresh stain but that may be the only answer. I've seen some nice Minwax stains very nice colors.

Scott these are the doors I was thinking it was T1-11 but it's some knotty pine and all new.

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Yep. Have seen it many times. If he's gotten splotches after all he did before, he's got to use an acrylic. And I would be fairly liberal with the "conditioner" (clear primer) too....

Beth

[ScottsDecks 14]

Beth, and everyone else, thanks for the responses. At this point I think we're going to run with Beth's minwax option. Not looking forward to stripping the garage doors again.....

I've never worked with Minwax on outdoor wood. Will the top coat peel like the urethane did? Also, has anyone used naptha in conjunction with wood restoration?

Thanks again,

Scott

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Scott - call me tomorrow. We'll talk more about the correct product.

Beth

[ScottsDecks 14]

Got your message. Will give you a buzz on the 26th.

Thanks.

[josephbunny 1]

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