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organic inhibitors

Question

I tried a search on this topic, couldn't find what I was looking for, so here goes...

Client loves the look of a newly stained deck with A/C cedar-two coats, however

the following year mold and mildew appear on his heavily shaded deck. When we clean it; we fade it and have to recoat. Currently we're stripping and resealing it every two years.

The Question: Which products have higher organic inhibitors that may be ideal for this project moving forward?

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If you getting 2 yrs i'm not sure what else you could ask for? Some decks that stay wet and don't dry out will see some mildew I think no matter what you do.

You could try adding some extra mildewcide to the stain this time and see how it works?

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Park an old, unused car in a partially shaded spot for a year. Or a snowmobile, inflatable doll, table, spoon, Home Depot 2 x 4, rubber duck.

In many climates in the United States, they will show some mildew, maybe even the "dreaded" mold. Or black spots, even some moss if you're in Maine.

It is not the stain. Unless purchased from Home Depot, Lowe's, or a clueless paint retailer.

BDA is the way.

Edited by RPetry

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I tried a search on this topic, couldn't find what I was looking for, so here goes...

Client loves the look of a newly stained deck with A/C cedar-two coats, however

the following year mold and mildew appear on his heavily shaded deck. When we clean it; we fade it and have to recoat. Currently we're stripping and resealing it every two years.

The Question: Which products have higher organic inhibitors that may be ideal for this project moving forward?

For an AC deck as you described, that is the correct maintenance, and what you can expect to see. ANY product with linseed oil in it, will yield those results. Mildewcides are not permanent, you add them in before you paddle the can, but they are meant to help during the curing of the newly applied stain and don't work for the life of the product.

At the risk of starting a heated debate among woodies, I'll say this. There is a sound reason to apply acrylics in certain cases. One of those reasons, is acrylic finishes contain zero linseed oil. On some decks, they make better sense than an oil does.

Beth

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... Rick I would like to call you sometime over the weekend.

No problem. Any time between 6:00 AM to 9:00 PM is fine, Monday through Saturday is best. Sunday is a day of rest unless we are backed up on staining due to wet weather.

... ANY product with linseed oil in it, will yield those results. Mildewcides are not permanent, you add them in before you paddle the can, but they are meant to help during the curing of the newly applied stain and don't work for the life of the product.

Beth,

Good for you and Rod. You are slowing sliding into the dark side of straight paraffin oil for exterior wood staining. Halfway there. Organic oils including linseed are a terrific "food" for mold and mildew.

At the risk of starting a heated debate among woodies, I'll say this. There is a sound reason to apply acrylics in certain cases. One of those reasons, is acrylic finishes contain zero linseed oil. On some decks, they make better sense than an oil does.

Heresy! You're birthday is over so shame on you! A 100% paraffin oil stain has no "organic" ie: linseed being the most common, or "food source" oils. It's a by product of petroleum! Unless you are an unknown organism living thousands of feet below the land or seabed, there is nothing on our earth surface environment that eats paraffin oil.

Acrylics are barely OK for vertical exterior wood. Unless it is cedar or mahogany. Over time these woods will rot to the point where a sponge has more constitution.

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I would recommend NOT applying two coats. The deck is heavily shaded and you shouldn't need the extra coating on top.

In my personal opinion, I believe that the problem with the heavy mold/mildew growth is coming from over-application. I now try to get as much to soak in as quick as possible BUT I do not go back and apply a second full coat. To me the time it takes to coat the floor is too much time, and then going back and spray a light coat on again causes too much product (linseed oil) to stay on top. I now will apply, brush in, apply next section and spray light coat on top of the previous, and then brush in the next. Essentially a 3' swath at a time.

I believe the 'problems' and complaints about the excessive black mold can be avoided/minimized by not trying to load up the wood or overapplying.

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No problem. Any time between 6:00 AM to 9:00 PM is fine, Monday through Saturday is best. Sunday is a day of rest unless we are backed up on staining due to wet weather.

Beth,

Good for you and Rod. You are slowing sliding into the dark side of straight paraffin oil for exterior wood staining. Halfway there. Organic oils including linseed are a terrific "food" for mold and mildew.

Heresy! You're birthday is over so shame on you! A 100% paraffin oil stain has no "organic" ie: linseed being the most common, or "food source" oils. It's a by product of petroleum! Unless you are an unknown organism living thousands of feet below the land or seabed, there is nothing on our earth surface environment that eats paraffin oil.

Acrylics are barely OK for vertical exterior wood. Unless it is cedar or mahogany. Over time these woods will rot to the point where a sponge has more constitution.

Rick,

You know I love ya more than a 5'er of Sikkens, but man you gotta get into the groove. The right tool for the right job. Some jobs, you need an acrylic. Some jobs, you need an oil (of one kind or another). I don't get this singular line of thinking. When a person goes to t a doctor, all the symptoms have to be considered before the patient is treated. Wood is no different. Rod and I met with a home owner in fact today who asked us if we prefer method A over method B. The answer was simple. Let us inspect the house, and we will tell you which, and why.

Tony, in my opinion exposure, climate, environmental factors have alot to do with it. Certain types of conditions seem to always be present.....

Beth

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Beth, would you mind sharing when you would use an acrylic, paraffinic or linseed/paraffinic mix stain? What factors lead you to use one over the other?

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Appreciate all the feedback ya'll....the customer is not happy with the single coat, going back to apply a second. Will provide information both ways acrylics vs. oil and let him make the decision. Good info all around.

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Beth, would you mind sharing when you would use an acrylic, paraffinic or linseed/paraffinic mix stain? What factors lead you to use one over the other?

(Rod responding)

While the conditions and situations do not always apply equally, there are times when an oil based product in a highly humid or wet condition would only attract the mildew to regrow.

Decks with little or no air circulation below them, ponds, pools, hot-tubs etc are all condusive to moisture retention and become mildew laden in a very short time.

Despite which product is used, this is the type of thing to inform the homeowner of what to expect regardless of oil or acrylic.

Acrylic's may seem to be the logical answer but you have to consider extended dry periods and how that will affect the performance of a coating when the wood shrinks from extended drying periods.

Maintainability of the coating should always be the goal because as most of us know, they don't all perform the same.

Rod!~

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Thank you Rod. I've recently switched from locally available middle of the line products to offering A/C, TWP 100 series and Defy. So far I've done two decks with A/C and one older cedar siding job with Defy. All came out beautiful. The homeowner that chose Defy did so because the samples of oils all came out very dark probably due to how much product absorbed into the old cedar. Sorry to derail this thread but would you consider this a good offering of different types of stains to choose from? And sorry I don't know what else to add to my signature...there are no "prompts" that I can see. Thanks. Dan

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