u.s forestry coatings ??

[steven 37]

thisis for wood restoration , can someone please help with some info. I can not remember where it was or who said it ( trust me I been looking for an hour ) but someone mentioned reading everything from the us. forestry service about coatings I THINK that's what it was. can someone help me out and tell me exactly what it is I should be reading.

[steven 37]

for some reason I cant quote,

 

John, If the stain I apply, whether it is one coat or six coats, if it all goes into the wood then all is good correct?

[John T 744]

for some reason I cant quote,

 

John, If the stain I apply, whether it is one coat or six coats, if it all goes into the wood then all is good correct?

Theoretically if all coats absorb into the wood you should be good....but.....after around 2 coats, the next coat will most likely lay on the previous coat and not penetrate the wood.. That coat will most likely peel down the road.

[James 625]

John did u use spell check to spell theoretically ?

[steven 37]

I understand the penetration part and I understand the flashing / sitting on top part.

 

Put it on till  " it cant take any more " is what I have been doing, But as we know If the wood is really dry it can suck it up quick. Is there any set rule as to how much stain wood can take? I would think that all wood is different and some may take only one coat of stain ( new wood ) and some could take three or four ( old dried up wood ).

[John T 744]

John did u use spell check to spell theoretically ?

Of course. I'm so bad at spelling that I can't even tell if the spell check is close to being right Gym.

[John T 744]

I understand the penetration part and I understand the flashing / sitting on top part.

 

Put it on till  " it cant take any more " is what I have been doing, But as we know If the wood is really dry it can suck it up quick. Is there any set rule as to how much stain wood can take? I would think that all wood is different and some may take only one coat of stain ( new wood ) and some could take three or four ( old dried up wood ).

Sounds about right to me. We need some of these wood experts here to chime in on this. BETH,JIM,SHANE.. you guys out there??

[seymore 90]

What stain are you using Steven? 

 

What does the manufacture say to use minimum?

[steven 37]

A/C Amber. Minimum? well I guess one coat would be minimum. They don't say there is a maximum either, all they say is "do not over apply".

 

 is there any benefit to doing more than two coats?

Edited September 21, 2014 by steven

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

A/C Amber. Minimum? well I guess one coat would be minimum. They don't say there is a maximum either, all they say is "do not over apply".

 

 is there any benefit to doing more than two coats?

 How much you apply of any product should be based upon the product and the manufacturers specifications. Over or under application can create issues.

 

Beth

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Applying to the manufacturers specifications is always our first task.

There are times when one must take unique conditions of the wood and the environment it is installed in to account.

 

That means, choosing a proper coating and not just any product.

 

Certain products can lend to more mildew and algae growth while other can lead to excessive peeling.

 

I could go on a huge post about this but it would be hard to discuss due to the nature of coatings themselves and the little known track record of hybrids.

Oils, Acrylics, latex and hybrids all have their specifics for application and it is up to us to learn about the way they have performed first in the environment of the

structure they are applied to.

 

Environments include heavy moisture and humidity such as are found around pools, hot tubs and water features people install in their yards.

These will also include low to the ground or otherwise ground level structures with little to no air flow underthem in this category.

Dry ones are sun laden and southern exposed with little to no shade at all.

Desiduous environments are those where there is a tremendous amount of trees and lots of plants which dump a great variety of things on the structure.

Other environments include those with coniferous trees (pine, spruce, cedar etc) which give off a lot of pollen and create a mold haven in the combination of

humid environments and heavily shaded or northern exposed.

 

Asking questions of your customer can lead to a great deal of information to help understand what they have done, what has been installed, what performed well/not well.

Evaluating the products you apply over the years gives you a better understanding of how they will work in these environments and what to suggest.

 

Then, you get to the cost. Customers don't always care about all these extraneous factors and just want the cheapest thing to get it sold. But remember, if you do the job, your reputation

rides on it.

The neighbors will check it out and while they don't know the covnersation of the decision, they will ultimately form an opinion based upon how it holds up compared to theirs.

 

Lots to learn eh?!?!?

 

Rod

[steven 37]

Thanks Rod,

 

Yes sir there is a ton and a half to learn.

 

I understand your post about having to take into account every situation, location, and product when starting a project. That is something that I will be incorporating into every site inspection for now on. Before I would just look at the wood and what was on it. 

 

I just want to learn as much as I can when it comes to coatings whether they are latex,oil, acrylics, or whatever. 

 

I also want to know as much as I can about the wood, cedar, pine, hardwood, softwood etc.

 

Again thanks for the post.
 

I have been reading a lot of the FPL website. they have a lot of information.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

You are on the right track trying to learn about both the surface being applied and what is being applied to the surface.

 

In each species, the extractive content specific to the genome will determine many things.

Hardwoods like Ipe for example, have such a high content of extractives that make it mostly impermeable to stains and finishes.

So, you have to take that into consideration when choosing a finish among the environmental aspects too.

 

Redwood is another example. It's composition makes it unsuitable for certain stains due to the composition of the stain which causes the wood to turn

dark or black. This aesthetic can be highly undesirable to the customer who is looking for something to show off the wood.

A draw back that can cost you if it occurs.

 

Rod

[steven 37]

Question about A/C and SIKKENS.

 

I have been using the Armstrong Clark stains pretty much exclusively. I know that they have both drying and non drying oils in them. the non drying oils are supposed to lock in the non drying. They seem to dry IN the wood not on the wood. Now the Sikkens seems to be a film former that sits on top of the wood. Is that the way SIKKENS is designed? I was using the cetol one coat system and there seemed to be a lot of film forming going on. It seems that all the Sikkens I see has that shiny look.

[steven 37]

well after reading some about the SIKKENS I find that they have a film forming and a non film forming. the srd re is a one coat non film former.  while the cetol log and siding is a two coat film forming finish. Sikkens does seem to have quite a few different application processes.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Correct.

Their RE line is a hybrid.

 

Rod

[steven 37]

It seems that all the  " painters " in my area think that Sikkens has to be applied to all log homes.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Well put.

 

Unfortunately, Sikkens is like a woman scrorned.

If you don't keep up on the maintenance and skip an interval, the costs shoot up in order to deal with the product as it degrades.

 

So much to cover with Sikkens and when it comes to customers who have it, they have all learned an expensive lesson.

I have had 1 customer who insisted on keeping with the line but acknowledges it did cost him to not keep up with it.

 

Rod