TWP-penetrating, film forming or both?

[PressurePros 249]

I have heard many good things about TWP. I search and search through the web and get different answers as to what type of finish this is. For the most part it comes up as penetrating. But then I see authorized dealers for the product (including TWP themsleves on one site) suggest multiple thin coats for a furniture like sheen. From what I understand, a sheen that remains after curing is the sign of a film former, right? Also from what I understand this type of finish is begging for early failure but I talked to a guy out in the midwest that says he has been using up to three coats of TWP (100 series) on his projects without any problems. Whats the deal with this stuff?

[James 625]

The 1oo series to 500 series is the penitrating non filmers I think--

[Scott Paul 164]

TWP is a penetrating wood finish. The 100 series is a wet on wet application while the 500 is one coat. Never had problems with peeling or flaking in the 6 years of using TWP. We prefer it over every other product including Ready Seal. We have alot of cedar decks in our area and TWP looks great on them easily lasting 2-3 years with very light fading. We also sell products to about 60 different contractors in our area and by far the TWP out sells any of our other coatings.

[JFife 14]

Scott is correct, I believe the best for decks as well. Need better color selection in my opinion however. The film former, is the 300 series, for furniture mainly, but some use it for other things. The 100 series is great and easy to recoat, you can cut 50/50 with clear to keep from darkening.

jon

[Scott Paul 164]

They have been slowly offering additional colors. Honeytone and Rustic were added to the 100 line a few years ago and will be added to the 500 line this year. Unfortunately there is more than one manufacturer of TWP. If you get your product directly through Amteco I don't believe they offer these new colors. You will need to go through Gemini Coatings and that may not be possible. It depends on where your supplier gets it from.

[seymore 90]

The Gray Away wood seal I use is made from Amteco's oil and it's been a great stain for over 10 yrs.

[Aplus 525]

I consider TWP to be a "penetrating film" because it behaves in both ways. If you leave any puddles, the excess will congeal, and when it finally dries, will be shiny. Once the product dries, it's not a good idea to apply a second coat, because it can no longer penetrate.

Ready Seal, on the other hand, will penetrate whether applied wet on wet or dry. excess puddles eventually soak in and don't leave shiny spots.

[James 625]

Tony -if you over apply ready seal it will form a skin- Done that!

[Aplus 525]

I've never done that, but I think it would take a lot more product to overapply RS than with TWP. It's almost impossible to put two coats of TWP on without the shiny nasty spots.

[James 625]

The first year I used it- On a new cedar deck -I did two coats- Thinking the second coat would penitrate I went home- It formed a thin skin- It looked great so I left it alone- Tne next year doing maint. was a little difficult and some areas the skin peeled up.

[PressurePros 249]

I've never done that, but I think it would take a lot more product to overapply RS than with TWP. It's almost impossible to put two coats of TWP on without the shiny nasty spots.

Tony, is that a bad thing? Is the 100 series a single coat only? I just got off the phone with a guy named John from DeckMasters in Missouri. As a test three years ago he put down five coats of TWP on his own deck. He said to this day, no peeling or flaking. Walking acrossed his deck when it's wet must be a treat, but I think a furniture like appearance on the rails, spindles or fascia might make an interesting contrast against a more flat sealer for the floor. I have customers asking me to do this, that's why I ask. I have read that you use TWP often so I figure you must be the best to ask for advice on this one.

[Aplus 525]

Ken,

For one, I have not seen TWP last for three years, but I guess it could if it were covered and the conditions were ideal. Generally, I strip the old coating off after two years, and then reapply. I've done some testing on boards behind my shed, and was not satisfied with how multiple coats looked. Often it takes up to a week for the stuff to dry completely when applied to heavy, which is not a good thing. I've not seen it peel, but that's not really the issue I have, which is overall appearance.

The look you mention makes me think two tone is the way to go, where the spindles, railings, and sometimes fascias and lower skirting is stained solid, with the floor done as a semi-trans. There are variations on how this can be done, and which parts are done.

Also, two tone can be done using two different colors of semi-trans, like the railing a darker brown, and the floor a medium brown. Or certain accent points can be done with a honey gold color to give a striking contrast.

I think Reed did his own deck two tone with Ready Seal semi-trans.

The color choices offered by TWP may not make the best choices for two toning, it just depends on the situation and look you are going for.

The biggest problem I have with stains in general is that no one company offers all the colors that I am requested to apply.

That is why I offer both TWP and Ready Seal.

[PLD 14]

The [TWP] 100 series is great and easy to recoat, you can cut 50/50 with clear to keep from darkening.jon

Can you re-coat TWP 200 successfully? The manufacturer recommends against it, but I have a customer pending now that wants a percarb and re-coat instead of a strip and seal.

FWIW, the deck looks good. I guessed 2 yrs since it was done and the homeowner said 4-5yrs...

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I consider TWP to be a "penetrating film" because it behaves in both ways.

BINGO.

It is NOT the oils so much you have to worry about, as much as the resins. If a product has a a good resin system and is over aplied, it will film. How fast it does it, is in part going to depend on the dryer in the product. There may be oils that can film up on you, but since these products do have resins to help hold the pigments up to the surface ( theres the UV protection folks) it makes sense that the resins are forming the skin.

Beth :cup:

[JFife 14]

Doolittle,

I think percarb wash and re-stain should work fine. 200 is like 95% solids, and be aware that it goes on very dark (lightens in about a month). I know a guy in N.Georgia that uses it exclusively and swears by it. There used to be a guy that posted on the boards named Tim Cross, who does restoration in the Northern Midwest, Milwaukee and Chicago I believe. He's used nothing but 200 for years, puts it one decks, roofs, logs, etc. His biz is probably one of the three biggest in the country for wood restoration. I'd LOVE to use it, for the durability and cost, but I just don't know if I could sell, "wait a month and your house will be beautiful."