Celeste 341 Report post Posted May 3, 2005 Here's a deck we prepped for stain last week and finished up today. This is Wood Defender Leatherwood Deck Stain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 STAN 14 Report post Posted May 3, 2005 How did it go on compared to RS? What was the sqft coverage? Thanks. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Celeste 341 Report post Posted May 3, 2005 Easy as Ready Seal to apply since they have similar qualities - 200 sq ft of coverage per gallon (and this deck was thirsty). We are very pleased with this product. Celeste Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted May 3, 2005 Looks good Celeste :cool: My sample didn't look too bad but i have it in the sun weathering against my Gray Away.So we'll see how it last over time :D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Celeste 341 Report post Posted May 3, 2005 I spoke to a guy that has Xenon tested this stuff in extreme conditions - lasts really well according to his reports. We're feeling rather positive about the 23% transoxides in this product. Celeste Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 What is positive about the transoxides ? the darker the color the more transoxides they have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Celeste 341 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 Compared to the 7% that our previous stain has, the color will last much longer I've been told. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 Looks real sharp. You can see the light refracting off of the horizontals. Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Everett Abrams 501 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 More pigmentation, more product closer to the surface, harder to maintain. Eye candy is one thing, what is good for the wood may be another. The debate rages on! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 Products with transoxides that have tung , linseed ,and other hardeners last longer at the surface. They do not preserve the wood better over time. The maint. coats don't penitrate the wood. More of a cosmedic fix. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Celeste 341 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 I was under the impression that the penetrating oils were what was good for the wood. This is also a parafinic product, not tung or linseed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Chappy 138 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 who makes this product, is it flood? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Celeste 341 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 No, this is a Standard Paint product....www.wooddefender.com Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PowerPlay 14 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 Looks great in the picture. You say it is comparable to Ready Seal eh? So if i'm understanding this conversation correctly? The Wood Defender has more color pigment in it so it will not fail (color wise) as fast however, you may not be able to clean and add maintenace coat as many times?Did the guys at Standard Paints say anything about how many maintenace coats could be applied? Thanks for sharing! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Celeste 341 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 Yes the color will last longer - the maintenance time frame is supposed to be longer than Ready Seal - I don't see that as a bad thing. I'm sure a homeowner would love to only see us every two years instead of every year. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted May 4, 2005 Does it have silicone in it ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted May 5, 2005 I always thought the trans oxides were tiny metallic like particles that reflect UV light. My understanding of Ready Seal is that the pigments are ground so fine, and dispersed so thoroughly, that there is virtually no waste of pigments settled on the bottom of the pail. That's why RS is sold in 5gal pails with only a pour spout...they don't need to be stirred. I'm curious about the silly-cone in Wood Defender, and how it may be to remove. I know that I've been asked to remove the marks on concrete that the tire shine products leave behind on the drive, and I have not been able to remove the marks, since they are formed from the silicone. I just don't get over excited about new products now days, at least until I see how they hold up after at least a full season. Also, I need to know that the product can be easily removed with the chemicals I have on hand. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted May 5, 2005 Silicone - yes it is in wood defender from what I have heard. Transoxide pigment - yes very finely ground metalic pigment, it's the best pigment on the market, much better than clay pigment. It is the pigment that keeps the decks from greying. It is the pigment that refracts the lights UV rays. This is why you can look at a deck from one angle and it doesn't look well coated, but from another angle, it does. Light. Light makes a difference. If the product is working, you should expect that phenomenon. Products may contain a number of: oils, resins, pigments, dryers, mildewcides, antifungals, biocides, and other carriers. There is tung oil, linseed, oil, parafinic oil, alkyd oil, polymer resins, acrylics, latex, silicone etc... One thing not many realize is that parafinic oil is thrice boiled linseed oil. (think about it like olive oil, you have your regular and your extra virgin - in other words, different kinds.) Ingredients matter. Beth :groovy: :groovy2: :groovy3: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Brent Turner 14 Report post Posted May 5, 2005 Thank you for your interest in our products. As always your questions and concerns are welcome. To answer a few of them without giving away any trade secrets... This is a penetrating non-blocking stain. The total solids by weight is 25-30 percent. This is the resin and pigment solids only. When advertising or comparing the solids of any product it is advised to omit the parafin oil from your calculations. Parafin oil will dissipate from the wood over a period of time. Parafin oil is not a V.O.C, however it is not a true solid. When conducting a solids test in a laboratory using an ASTM test method parafin oil will evaporate with the solvent in the formula and leave you with the true solids. Using the senario that parafin oil is a solid I could sell a bucket that included nothing but parafin oil and advertise it as 100% solids. Parafin oil is a very important ingredient in our formulation. It helps to pull the resin, pigment, additives, wood preservatives, mildewcides... deep into the wood where the protection is needed. The 25-30 percent solids (pigment and resin) in this product will cause you no problems with maintenence coats. Stripping the product prior to re-coats is not neccessary. A light cleaning and re-coat is all that is required. The solids in the product do penetrate and are not film forming. We are in total agreement that this is better for the wood. There is no debate from me on this issue. Trans-oxide pigments are utilized in this formulation. Trans-oxide pigments are a very good U.V inhibitor. All of the Wood Defender Transparent Deck Stains use only Trans-oxide for pigmentation. A silicone additive is used in a small amount to aid with water repellancy. In a small amount silicone additives can be used without the adverse effects some of you seem to have experienced. The silicone in this product will have no effect on re-coats. I hope this answers a few of the questions that were brought up. I am somewhat hesitant to reply to these threads. I am not interested in a debate on any topic. I know that the contractors using this forum have had great success with our competitions products. The success you have had speaks for the products you have used. We are only hear to offer you are products and service, to help in any way we can. Please call or visit our website if you have any questions. WWW.WOODDEFENDER.COM 1-800-658-5683 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Celeste 341 Report post Posted May 5, 2005 One thing not many realize is that parafinic oil is thrice boiled linseed oil. (think about it like olive oil, you have your regular and your extra virgin - in other words, different kinds.) Ingredients matter. Beth :groovy: :groovy2: :groovy3: I thought paraffinic oils were non organic - they're the same as petroleum distillates, which is a crude oil thing as opposed to something from a seed. Celeste Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Pete Marentay 14 Report post Posted May 5, 2005 I believe parafinic oil is a hydrocarbon, derived from crude oil. It is most similar to #6 fuel oil. Boiled linseed oil is a vegetable oil, derived from flax seeds. Most linseed oil used in sealers today is boiled linseed oil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Russell Cissell 65 Report post Posted May 5, 2005 Paraffinic is a term used more to describe a type of molecule. A paraffinic oil is one where hydrogen and carbon atoms are bonded in a long, linear fashion. A paraffinic molecule resembles a stretched out chain. If you buy a straight paraffinic oil it is most likely going to be a petroleum derivative because this is by far the simplest and least expensive method of producing the molecule. Without giving away the farm I will just say, it is not the only way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Everett Abrams 501 Report post Posted May 5, 2005 Very technical thread going here, good stuff. This link should help as well: http://www.intox.org/databank/documents/chemical/petdis/cie803.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted May 5, 2005 If I click this link....will my head spin? :lgbugeyes Let's find out.... Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted May 6, 2005 Brent, Thanks for your info. However, it did not state how many light washes with recoats can be performed before a strip is necessary. And what does it take to remove the Defender products? Thanks.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted May 6, 2005 Good Question Tony ! Any product that has a film is a problem down the road. Thats when the home owner give 's up and the deck is neglected. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Here's a deck we prepped for stain last week and finished up today. This is Wood Defender Leatherwood Deck Stain.
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