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RCBill

A couple questions from a newbie

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Hello Folks,

I'm just getting my feet wet with my new PW and I have a couple questions.

1. My machine generates 3500#/4gpm. Can I reduce the pressure, while maintaining gpm with another nozzle? I want to reduce pressure for wood and to limit the dispersion of the cleaner and the dirt.

2. I am struggling to clean my roof, which is pretty black. I am using 10% diluted about 20%, plus barlux, x-jetted without a proportioner. After several applications the roof needs more. Could this be expected with a very dirty roof?

3. How long of a chemical supply hose can I use on my x-jet?

4. Application of chems was pretty messy due to some wind. The roof is too steep to walk. What can I do to use an extension with low pressure. I am familar with the sureflo (at least I've read about it). But I don't recall reading of someone using an extension with the pump. At any rate, what can I do to apply chems on an unwalkable roof on a windy day?

TIA

Bill

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RC, your standard nozzle should be a 4.5. To reduce pressure but maintain your GPM, a 5.5 will cut you down to 2000 PSI, an 8.0 will take you down to 1000 PSI and a 12.0 will take you down to 500 PSI.

Bleach on a roof will shorten to life of the roof significantly. Try to keep the final mix less than 3% concentration. I lean towards keeping it below 2%. You might consider using a less aggressive product than bleach. There are mild caustic cleaners on the market that should work for you. Sounds like this roof is quite a challenge.

Your X-Jet can suck through as much as 100 of hose, according to the manufacturer. I have my doubts about any length like that. However, you should have no trouble pulling 50'.

There is a tool called a Pitch Witch designed for exactly what you are trying to do - wash the roof without standing on it. I bought one, used it twice, and didn't like the results I got. Sold it for half of what I paid. Others have had good luck, so maybe perserverance and more experience with the tool is what is needed.

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RCBill, your bleach will be just fine for roof cleaning, but you need to to apply a stronger concentration. For an asphalt shingle roof with the kind of build up you are describing you will require at least 4% if not 5-6% do get excellent results. I usually apply my chlorine at around 5% for tough roofs. If you plan to do a lot of roof cleaning, you really need to consider setting up a shurflo roof cleaning system, as the x-jet isn't capable of applying the chem at a sufficent strength for most roofs.

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If you plan to do a lot of roof cleaning, you really need to consider setting up a shurflo roof cleaning system, as the x-jet isn't capable of applying the chem at a sufficent strength for most roofs.

I agree completely. if you will check recently, you will find a thread where I posed this same problem. Even at 12.5% after running through an xjet the solution is just too weak for a roof job. After the dicussion I switched to a 1:1 mix (6.25% on the roof) and it works great.

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Pete, thanks.

I found a good supplier here in Wilmington for tools, equipment, and chems. Bought the 8.0 nozzles today. The roof wouldn't be much for a guy with a few under his belt. All-in-all it isn't really that hard for me. I'm just trying to wring out as much learning out of it as I can. I like to reduce questions to a fundemental that I'll use later.

CCPC, thanks for responding.

I bought the chlorine from a hardware store. Could it have lost some potency? Today I found an industrial supply outfit that serves the trade. They have 15% that I will use in the future.

I do plan to do roofs. And I will put together a sureflo system. In fact, I'll order the pump from Northern tonight. This roof is a little steep for me. Do you use an extension wand? I am familiar with them including the coress from Glenn. I did a little mountaineering in the army a few years ago. I will put together some rigging that will let me climb to new heights. May have to put a stop to the seconds on pasta though.

pldoolittle, thank you too.

I'll look for your thread. I have a acquaintence in Fayetteville named Jake. Runs a painting business. He's told me Fayetteville is a pretty small town. Do you know of him?

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RCBill, make sure you buy chlorine from someone who sells a lot within a short period of time. This will ensure that you're getting your chems at a higher % rate.

Chlorine looses apprx. 2% for every two weeks that it sits.

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RCBill, make sure you buy chlorine from someone who sells a lot within a short period of time. This will ensure that you're getting your chems at a higher % rate.

Chlorine looses apprx. 2% for every two weeks that it sits.

Wow, is that right? I bought a 5 gall container two weeks ago from a pool supply house and it was weak. I opened the container and knew right away it had been sitting but I had no idea it could spoil that fast. Are you sure about those numbers for a sealed, UV blocking container?

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I've always been told 1% per month. I've also left chlorine in a tank for well over a month, diluted at 1:1 with water and it's worked fine when needed. There's the ol' warm finger test too.......:)

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I got some new 15%, but it worked about as well as the 10%. I did dilute by about 20% with water. This roof was really black. I think things are just a bit tougher here in NC.

A flock of mosquitos tried to carry off the neighbor's dog a few days ago. Never heard a dog make noise like that.

Bill

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I do not know where you all are coming up with your statistics. I have seen in tests where there is no significant difference, on mold and mildew, in performance between 5% and 2.5%-3%. The stronger the chemical the more damage can be done to the substrate and of course you are spending more money. I also have never heard of the losses in percentage that are mentioned at these rates. Conditions also play an important part in this equation as to where they are stored and the temperature in that storage, in regards to its degradation. I would agree with Pete's recommendation.

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Wow, is that right? I bought a 5 gall container two weeks ago from a pool supply house and it was weak. I opened the container and knew right away it had been sitting but I had no idea it could spoil that fast. Are you sure about those numbers for a sealed, UV blocking container?

Ken that's what I hear...as to weather it's true or not I don't know. I ask my supplier again today, and I remembered correctly. It is 2% for every two weeks.........or 1% per week.......or .5% per 3.5 days...........however you want to look at it.

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I do not know where you all are coming up with your statistics. I have seen in tests where there is no significant difference, on mold and mildew, in performance between 5% and 2.5%-3%. The stronger the chemical the more damage can be done to the substrate and of course you are spending more money. I also have never heard of the losses in percentage that are mentioned at these rates. Conditions also play an important part in this equation as to where they are stored and the temperature in that storage, in regards to its degradation. I would agree with Pete's recommendation.

I disagree. if there was no significant difference than I would be using 2.5% when I clean roofs, but I don't because it doesn't work.

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Bleach on a roof will shorten to life of the roof significantly. Try to keep the final mix less than 3% concentration. I lean towards keeping it below 2%. You might consider using a less aggressive product than bleach.

Ever heard of ARMA?

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Let me guess a product like sodium hydroxide?Then rinse with pressure.This is a never ending debate.I have done many many roofs and I'll tell ya anything below 5% just doesn't do the job.If the roof has a lot of mold mildew I have used straight 12.5% but I always rinse.I am sure Pete sells a product other than Chlorine to clean roofs but I have tried them all and nothing works like chlorine at least here in Florida.We probably have different mold mildew than you guys up north thats why we have to use chlorine.lol

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The ARMA even suggest using CHLORINE BLEACH to clean shingles they even say put tsp in the mix.Thats something that I don't do maybe I should but my way has been working for years its the most economical and efficent way that I have found to clean roofs (in my opinion).

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