IPE (hey beth or rod)

[jnoden 15]

I tried doing a search for IPE and I think that the word is too small and yields no results. This has happended on several ocassions with other searches in the past with short words. Is there a way to make short words searchable?

I also wanted to ask your opinion or anyone who has sealed IPE. I know that it is very hard and does not absorb stain well and in return may need to be sealed more often than other woods. I am going to recommend either Aussie Timber Oil or WTW. I have used wtw several times but not the timber oil and this would be my first time wrking with IPE. Is it ok to recommend either of these sealers? Thanks Again!

[Celeste 341]

We've not had good longevity with Aussie Oil. I believe Paul Dinos (ProClean) is putting WTW on all of his hardwoods now. We are as well but it's just gone down this year.

Celeste

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

ATO has gone downhill since the VOC changes that took place a bit over a year ago ( Jan 05). At this point I would try the WTW on it.

Beth

[Proclean 14]

I will say WTW is what I use on all my hardwoods - for what that is worth :). Every stain has advantages & disadvantages. I believe WTW is the best stain on the market for hardwoods and maintenance.

I will also say the ATO is second best, but not close.

Call Russell @ ESI and order some WTW and ask for instructions on application and performance.

[jnoden 15]

Thats very good to know. Thanks to both of you for quick responses. I estimate this place on Fri and the woman said over the phone that she wants Aussie Oil on it. I will give her this info but let her decide. I think two coats of WTW will look good based on some pics on this site of IPE with WTW.

[RyanH 14]

I tried doing a search for IPE and I think that the word is too small and yields no results. This has happended on several ocassions with other searches in the past with short words. Is there a way to make short words searchable?

Search for terms like:

ipe deck

ipe stain

ipe strip

ipe care

ipe wood

ipe new

Or similar variations. Similarly, for various TLAs (three letter acronyms) you can stack your searches with other relevant words, such like

WTW wood

WTW deck

WTW weather

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Also try, Brazilian hardwoods, Pau Lope' distributors for search terms.

The jury is still out on A.T.O. since the VOC reformulations. So far, we have not been impressed and have used WTW instead on some jobs to get a comparison. Stay Tuned...

Rod!~

[PressurePros 249]

You might have better success with Wood Rich. If you have never used WT on hard woods you may end up with a ton of shiny spots. In either case brush it out by hand (and charge accordingly) We get $4 per s/f (floor) to prep and apply sealer to ipe.

[Russell Cissell 65]

Wood-Tux will last longer on Ipe than Woodrich. Woodrich is certainly easier to use.

The Wood-Tux application is rather slow on Ipe. Ipe is slow to allow penetration plan to spend more time than you would on a cedar or Pressure treated deck. For best results, first apply Wood-Tux heavy and allow to dwell a few minutes on the surface. Next use a dry lambs wool or rag to remove all of the excess stain. The wood should look thoroughly damp, but not wet or shiny.

When applied this way Wood-Tux will last very well on Ipe and other exotic hardwoods.

To speed the application process up, some contractors will cut Wood-Tux 3:2 with water and apply it in two consecutive coats. First a light coat followed by another good coat that gets back brushed/wiped.

[James 625]

4 dollars a sqft to prep IPE is absurd ( unless stripping maybe). I've been taking care of hardwoods longer than anyone on the boards. And have maintained everyone I've done. Some of the statements I read here are ridiculous.

[PressurePros 249]

Absurd compared to what you are used to getting but perfectly in scale for the price of the decking and the amount of labor that goes into applying a finish that will last longer than six months. The economy of scale comes into play. If someone pays $35 per s/f to have a deck constructed and we have to take double the labor time to hand apply a product the number is right on the money. I haven't had one complaint yet. Try to keep an open mind, james. Would you be opposed to getting that rate for decks because you find it absurd? What I find a little off kilter is someone basing their pricing on what they would be willing to pay versus what is considered a FMV.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

What I find a little off kilter is someone basing their pricing on what they would be willing to pay versus what is considered a FMV.

And this, may just be why some people do not charge enough....mindset.

Beth

[James 625]

I simply do not believe you get 4 dollars or 4000 dollars to do a 1000 sqft Ipe deck. You make 400 hundred an hour ? The top stripping price is 3 dollars an hour in the industry. Preping Ipe is not difficult .

I think I'll come to Pa and follow you around and charge 2 dollars a Sqft for Ipe and make 200 and hour

[PressurePros 249]

The top stripping price is 3 dollars an hour in the industry.

I'm not trying to be a smartass, but now its 4 dollars. James you can follow me around, Id love to have you come down and share your experience. Perhaps you could see why getting $4 not only happens, why it is neccessary. Trust me, I don't make $400 an hour on anything. Those rates are reserved for my attorney.

[hugo_sandberg 14]

James,

Please contact me at hsandberg@flood.com and we can discuss your needs.

In other posts we have discussed the new FloodPro Supreme Performance product for ipe.

Hugo Sandberg

[plainpainter 217]

Rather than dinker around with my customers - I think I'll go work for Ken, how much you payin' Ken? Although the one thing that is true in this industry - is that even though on the surface someone may appear to be making $400/hr based on their pricing - by the time everyone is payed, materials are payed, bills are paid, the machinist is paid for overhauling your blown truck motor, etc - you never quite get anything close that hourly figure.

[plainpainter 217]

Oh yeah - I'm all for raising rates - anyone who can afford to have an ipe deck constructed has a little too much money imo. If you don't charge them good money - especially for putting yourself at risk working with dangerous chemicals - who can you charge good money for? Not to mention with house pricing - I am sure nobody is getting filthy rich even with $4/sq.ft.

[James 625]

Ken you said 4 dollars for preping and sealing Ipe ? I can see for a very difficult strip. I do very high end and get top dollar. 4 dollars is very rear for a strip ( nightmare jobs). I just got back from RI for a cedar shake job which I was highest but did it different.

New decks I figure 10 to 15 % of sqftage and other factors not how much it cost to build. Hardwoods are more labor intensive to build which does not effect our cost. Ipe I find the easiest to prep.

[PressurePros 249]

Maybe our not seeing eye to eye is the way of measurement? In my original post I have 'floor' in parentheses. If I had a 1000 sq ft deck with spindles and rails and some steps, that would be about 2000 sq/ft give or take. So that $4000 is actually $2 per square feet and that includes a sodium percarbonate based cleaner, followed by a pH balancing acidic cleaner, followed by dry time, sanding where neccessary and hand applying high quality oil finish. My ipe finishes last at least twice as long as anything else out there so the value is an outstanding one.

Trust me, Jim, you are missing the boat. High end jobs dictate high end dollars.

[Matt 14]

Ken,

why is the "followed by a pH balancing acidic cleaner" necessary when using sodium percarb?

I've been told and believed that the sodium percarb was nearly pH neutral...

[Celeste 341]

Matt, some consider the acid's purpose to neutralize with a side effect of brightening, others say it's a brightener with a side effect of neutralization. We also neutralize after cleaning for the brightening effect.

Celeste

PS - Could you fix your signature please :)

[James 625]

Ken I don't have to trust you. I know what I'm doing . I think you make good points for newbe's on the boards as marketing goes. I call attention to information that maybe slightly exaggerated as far as woodcare goes.

[PressurePros 249]

Jim don't be offended. We have different agendas. After ten years I don't plan on a) being in the field doing deck work b) still being a one man show. Self proclaimed as a guru or not, facts are facts.

[James 625]

I am a guru facts are facts. I'm not offended . I'm asking the questions. . I don't have an agenda on the boards. If i do have an agenda it's to question those who give questionable information or half truths. OR I balance the BS (PH)>....

Fact- percarbs darken wood and hardwoods much more than bleach. The acid is used more to get rid of the tannins and thus brighting the wood.

[jnoden 15]

I got the IPE job and they want to go with WTW. This is a new house and the builders recently put down Wolmans EHT. It looks like crap. It was never powerwashed and you can see brush strokes and uneven appearence all over the place. I will be using F18 MAX. Has anyone stripped this stuff before? I have a feeling that it is going to be tough to strip.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

How long ago was it applied?

My suggestion, let it age....

1. easier to strip

2. products have a shorter life on ipe anyway

3. ipe will respond better to being sealed if allowed to age a little first, unlike other species

Beth