bigchaz 157 Report post Posted May 16, 2007 700 sq foot all horizontal job I just sold with wood tux wet. Stripped the previous finish and brightened Any tips for the WTW? I learned on my sample tests that it should be really thin. The wood is pine. Planning on using the 18 inch pad for it Anything I should know or y'all recommend before putting it on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted June 28, 2007 One other pic... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted June 28, 2007 interesting thread :lglolly: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Scott Paul 164 Report post Posted July 7, 2007 We have 60 pails of the Wood Tux "Classic" Warm Honey Gold in stock. We applied it last Thursday to a 1200 square foot deck. After one hour we walked on the floor to touch up a spot, it was mostly dry and there was zero tackiness. Coverage was 6 gallons for 1200 feet. The homeowner was extremely happy with the final color and look. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 249 Report post Posted July 7, 2007 Thats the wood tux I know from last season. Thanks Scott. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Jarrod 22 Report post Posted July 7, 2007 Thank GOD it's back! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted July 7, 2007 We have 60 pails of the Wood Tux "Classic" Warm Honey Gold in stock. We applied it last Thursday to a 1200 square foot deck. After one hour we walked on the floor to touch up a spot, it was mostly dry and there was zero tackiness. Coverage was 6 gallons for 1200 feet. The homeowner was extremely happy with the final color and look. Kinda begs me to ask the version and date of manufacture of the western cedar fivers you sent me... They look just like Beth n Rod's pics above in both container and seperation. Are we to assume they are the corrected batch? Can't say for sure the deck I used it on is still wet/sticky but all my cardboard and tarps are after 4 days of CA heat. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 plainpainter 217 Report post Posted July 8, 2007 Thank god I didn't take advantage of those free shipping deals! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted July 9, 2007 Here's the MSDS we have for Wood Tux. Hope this helps you guys out! Beth :cup: ps this is PRIOR to VOC changes....not current product MSDS. woodtuxmsdsold001.pdf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted July 9, 2007 Beth, Thanks for posting that MSDS sheet. Talked to another contractor last week that had a truck fire and spill. Would have been fined mucho dinero without those at hand. Am now carrying all MSDS sheets in the truck. I like the "Evaporation rate: Slower than Ether". That is hilarious. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted July 9, 2007 Speaking of truck fires..might not want to spill very much on this two layered drop cloth. Not only does it shrivel up and become unusable when bunched up but it will smoke, maybe catch flame and combust, if air is introduced going down the road....fire cans especially useful in this heat we got out here . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 keepinitclean 14 Report post Posted July 10, 2007 getting ready to stain 800lin.ft of fence and about 2500sq.ft of deck in a few hours with some fresh new wtw, pre-tinted. we will be using Wm.honey,Western ceder, and Brown sugar on 3 different decks/fence I'll let you all know how everything turns out. it will be nice to see the difference in the colors. will take pics!! fences are being stained with western cedarwtw. will I still get 200sq.ft per/gal, or will I need to lay it on more like 150sq.ft, per/gal. I will be using deckster to spray everything. Can I add any water to a 5gal wtw(WC) to get more out of it on the fence, or would min. spirts be better to thin with? Anyone on the east coast??? Russell??? If I wanted to make western ceder out of a gal/HG.WTW, how much black and red do i add to a gal to make it western cedar?? Thanks...Sam Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 249 Report post Posted July 10, 2007 If you have recently made WT WHG (ie manufactured and sent over the last week-10 days), and it is the same as the formula from last year, you can add a gallon of water to the product for better penetration. Tint the product to the color you want first, then add the water. The mix wil look nasty and will scare you and when you apply you may shriek, but within five minutes the wood will look exactly the color you want it to be. Alternatively you can add mineral spirits, that just makes the product non-VOC compliant in some states. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 keepinitclean 14 Report post Posted July 10, 2007 How Much Black & Red do you put in a gal of warm honey gold to make Western Ceder, Or even the Brown sug. I thought (BS) was 3mil black, and ?mil Red. thanks for responding so fast Ken. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 249 Report post Posted July 10, 2007 Give a Russell a call for the exact formulas. I do it by eye and test since every species of wood is different as well as affected by age, wood porousity etc. Its kinda hard to mess up as long as you go in steps. 3 mils of black/gal is a good starting point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted July 10, 2007 "fences are being stained with western cedarwtw. will I still get 200sq.ft per/gal, or will I need to lay it on more like 150sq.ft, per/gal." Depends on type of wood or how dry or new it is and then method of spray.(how much loss).Order of spray equipment efficiency would go something like such; true air atomized HVLP (90 something % efficient), then shurflow low flow type hvlp(bucketster), then shurflow high flow/pressure hvlp(dual pumping), then airless sprayer (80 something %), then paint padding/rolling. Over all the last project I used it on I averaged 160 with the dual pumping and no thinning. Is extremely fast method of applying stain and but tips have to be in good shape and you have to be quik and efficient with the hands. I like both true hvlp and the shurflow/bucketster method.. You should for sure get 200 or better with newer wood and efficient application methods though...just my humble opinion.. :) One coat western cedar on cedar picket with dual pump flojets at about 180 sq. ft. gal. coverage: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted July 11, 2007 The MSDS FAQ: Compliance Helpful link... Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted July 14, 2007 After a nearly two month delay, we will be using straight WTW for the first time, by customer request, on a 10 month old ipe' deck. Late May we prepped the ipe' and stained the balustrade, stair stringers, and fascia. In other words, all the vertical wood. It was then that we ran into the now infamous curing problem. At that time, the stain was applied lightly by hand rubbing with lambswool pads. No going back in 15 - 20 minutes to wipe out any excess, as the quantity of stain is very easy to control with lambswool. This past Thursday, stripped off that work and will begin restaining in about a week. The finish looked fine on the vertical wood using the lambswool method and aging 2 months. Have heard that the best method of application is to "flood" a small section of horizontal deck boards with WTW, allow to "penetrate" for ~ 15 minutes, and wipe up any excess. Can understand this when staining softwoods, but does this make any sense on a wood as hard and inpenetrable as fresh ipe'? Seems to be a very long process. If you can only do a 4 or 5 board course at one time, due to length of reach to wipe up any excess, staining a large deck floor would appear to take near forever. Or do you walk on the wet stain, and back brush or pad out the footmarks? What is the best method of application on the horizontal ipe' for both stain longetivity and production? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted July 14, 2007 We spray, and back pad and wipe. If the wind is too high, we would pad and wipe the whole thing. Beth :cup: mischief managed! :groovy3: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 249 Report post Posted July 14, 2007 You should wipe it Rick. This formula is going to react differently than your first application. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted July 14, 2007 Beth and Ken, Ok. Apply fairly heavy, let sit for what 10 or 15 minutes and wipe up any excess? How do you do this without walking all over the stain application? Or do you walk on it and wipe out the inevitable footprints? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bigchaz 157 Report post Posted July 14, 2007 I walk on it. Not sure if thats the proper method but i just use the pad on a pole to wipe it out when im heading towards the stairs Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 249 Report post Posted July 14, 2007 Rick, paint out three to four boards the entire length of the deck. By the time you get to the end, you can wipe it. You don't have to apply all that heavy. If you do choose to walk on it, you can usually wipe out footsteps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted July 14, 2007 It's an alkyd emulsion, it's sticky pretty quik after. Might want to wipe excess sooner then 10 min. The 'after the fix' stuff I used doesn't cure where applied excessive. Soaking doesn't seem to deepen the look of a thirsty board much to me. All that will dry is what is IN the wood is my feeling whether your out east with high humidity or blistering dry heat of the West. Not into fiddling around putting on a little then wiping..that's a bunch of bs.. Spray the whole deck a good coat in like 5 min then back brush with shurline on an extension pole. I am hoping for good things from the Stain and Seal...Shows no separation in the container after a night sitting. How hard it is to create a top film remains to be seen. Hoping it is real hard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bigchaz 157 Report post Posted July 14, 2007 How long till you got your stain and seal? Ordered woodrich almost 10 days ago and my credit card hasnt even been charged yet? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted July 14, 2007 How long till you got your stain and seal? Ordered woodrich almost 10 days ago and my credit card hasnt even been charged yet? Check with Scott Paul at The Sealer Store. Rick, There are a few different ways to apply and recently we have found favorable results using an airless paint sprayer. It applies in a finer spray and gives better absorption rates for the product being applied. Our crew has been reporting that application is easier and less guess work to achieve a more even finish with much less shiny areas to eliminate. The matte finish as you know is the best but the wood can change on you as the day progresses and the temperature of the wood increases. You absorption rates will go up slightly and in some cases you could also see the wood exude product creating puddles. This I associate with moisture expansion inside the substrate causing the effect. Another good reason to apply with a sprayer as we do is that it gets the sides better and eliminates the need to use a brush to attend these areas of the deck many are likely to find undesirable if left exposed. Rod!~ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
700 sq foot all horizontal job I just sold with wood tux wet. Stripped the previous finish and brightened
Any tips for the WTW? I learned on my sample tests that it should be really thin. The wood is pine. Planning on using the 18 inch pad for it
Anything I should know or y'all recommend before putting it on?
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