WTW tips

[bigchaz 157]

700 sq foot all horizontal job I just sold with wood tux wet. Stripped the previous finish and brightened

Any tips for the WTW? I learned on my sample tests that it should be really thin. The wood is pine. Planning on using the 18 inch pad for it

Anything I should know or y'all recommend before putting it on?

[RPetry 564]

Diamond Jim,

Please send some of those staining sheep down here to Jersey. Afraid I'm gonna' have a big need for a flock in the next day or so. Do they come with a cute little Bo Peep? Now there is a fantasy only a sicko could dream up.

Well, I have a customer that demanded WTW be used on his new ipe' deck. I offered alternatives, but complied to his wishes, wanting to try the product again. Looks like his big deck party on the 3rd may have to be inside the house. From what I have read here, discussed on the phone with other contractors, and observed so far, the stain will not cure out in time.

I'm dreading going back this morning and finding that the Japan Drier did not help in curing. Now what, have held off on doing the floor. Jim, I'll call later this AM ie: lamb, mutton, high grade mineral spirits, cute little sheep herders and drier sheets. Something has just got to work for the floor.

Just want to get this done right, get paid, and move on to the next job, a clear cedar monster.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

We have been getting normal drying times using the airless. For the sake of comparison, we have been in the 80's-90's with 35-70% humidity recently.

Rod!~

[RPetry 564]

Rod,

We are using lambswool by hand, rubbing on a minimum amount of WTW into the ipe'. Could not put down a thinner coat or less product on the wood. Again, this is ipe'.

Yesterday was in the low 80's, today is going up to ~86 F., and the forecast for tomorrow is suppose to be near 90 F., all with low relative humidity.

If the stain does not cure in these conditions, what would you suggest?

[PressurePros 249]

If the stain does not cure in these conditions, what would you suggest?

Standing Russell in front of a firing squad? :juggle:

[bigchaz 157]

Are the problems primarily with ipe? Anyone having issues with pressure treated?

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

If the drier doesn't get you the cure time you want, you can wipe it down with mineral spirits.

All the rewashing we have done was pre-japan drier. Since then we have not had to do that. If you have an airless, give it a go.

Beth

[Doug T 19]

Beth,

Thanks for the info, I'll try scrubbing with the mineral spirits first then if needed I'll percarb wash it.

This is my own deck, and I'm sure glad its not a customers.

[RPetry 564]

This stuff is the saving grace. Pulled my butt out of the proverbial fire.

Went back to the job site this morning and voila!, the 4 oz. of Japan Drier / gal. of WTW was still very tacky, but not oily to the touch. Encouraging, as the raw WTW 5 days after a test application was still very oily to the touch in many areas and tacky overall.

By this afternoon, 30 hours after application on a section of balustrade, most areas were still tacky but the top of the handrail, wood that gets the most sun, was downright cured correctly and dried! Eureka! Knocked off the rest of the balustrade, finished an ipe' front porch, and started on the floor. This might even be dried and cured for the customer's party on June 3rd. Naturally, did not promise anything but very encouraging. Will knock out the remainder of the floor and some stair risers/treads tomorrow morning.

What is very weird is the pressure treated 6 x 6 posts. They were still wet, oily to the touch, and had not even reached the tacky curing stage yet. Also, the warm honey gold on the wood looked terrible.

But I have no worries. Maybe it will color out better with curing and who cares, its friggin' PT posts. The ipe' itself looks great, I like the color and am sure the customer will.

So anyone working with this year's spring batch of WTW on hardwoods, I would strongly suggest 4 oz. of Japan Drier per gallon of WTW to get it to dry and cure in a reasonable amount of time.

[PressurePros 249]

Good, Rick, it sounds like it worked out okay for you.

Now from what I understand the latest batch of Summer Tux has been adjusted with the right amount of drier. So adding the Japan to this would be overkill, I'm assuming. I sure hope so, I'm sick of playing chemist.

[bigchaz 157]

According to Scotts email from OPW it sounds like you're right Ken.

[RPetry 564]

Ken,

I agree. Spent an inordinate amount of time testing and tweaking to get the stain to cure. Don't mind on the one hand, as today's WTW is a different animal than 2 years ago and wanted to try it out on ipe'. This customer gave us the perfect opportunity.

On the other hand, time, especially this time of the year, is money in lost productivity. But thats ok, I'm just a glutton for taking a bath on trying something new.

What will be really interesting is 6 months to a year from now. Have RS on ipe' done earlier in the month on my own ipe' deck. Now have WTW on customer's ipe'. Should be enlightening on longetivity issues, and even more important, ease of maintenance.

I will say this. These linseed oil stains are a pain. We just finished a solid Cabot's 7600 series alkylid/oil job, and now WTW. My helper is complaining. Having to mineral spirits and comb brushes, lambswood, clean out the airless, soak the stuff and brush, rinsing and now laundering rags and towels, is a chore. And time consuming. My new truck smells terrible.

WTW is not my stain of choice on softwoods, RS clearly put that debate to bed two years ago. But again, that was the "old" WTW. Who knows, WTW may be on exotic hardwoods if it proves itself. That will take a year.

There is no question that paraffinics, or at least RS, are by far the best and superior product for softwoods at this time. Though I have never used it, I would assume ESI's WoodRich could be included in this catagory. And those woods are the bread and of most wood contractors business.

[CB works 14]

Beth,

I haven't added any mineral spirits. I was in thinking that if I thin it, that I would be sacrificing some of the durability of the stain. I'm sure there is an acceptable amount you can add and still have a long lasting finish? Is there a benefit of using an airless rather than a sure flow type set up?

Thanks for your help,

Christian

Have you added any mineral spirits to it before applying it?

Beth

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

You guys are freakin me out! I ordered my first 5er of WTW Brown Sugar a week ago. I have not received it yet, but how will I tell if it is a spring batch or not? I am still a novice at wood and have no interest in playing chemist. Luckily it is in the high 80s low 90s here.

[PressurePros 249]

Scott what you get should be okay.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Yea being you aint got it yet and the Sealer Store says they expect new batch at end of week that must mean you'll have to wait til least sometime next week if you went through them.

[Integrity Curb Appeal 64]

Yea being you aint got it yet and the Sealer Store says they expect new batch at end of week that must mean you'll have to wait til least sometime next week if you went through them.

I ordered straight from ESIs website. St Louis isnt far from here so shipping was reasonable.

[Jarrod 22]

(Five)

[Tmrrptr 164]

That balustrade looked great to me!

Is that WTW stuff available for us out here on the left coast?

Oh, I DID look at the nailing of the deck today, on our jobsite...

ALL the nails are lifted ! Most only an 1/8th or so...

Maybe I can get a deck recon out of 'em, but I'm still not gonna dry fire my Hitachi !

r

[RPetry 564]

Scott,

Sounds like your order timing might be on the cusp of the WTW formula changeover.

If you do not need to use the stain right away, prep and apply some to a sample board. If it does not cure in a "reasonable" amount of time, adding Japan Drier will do the trick.

I'm not sure what is "reasonable" or normal curing time for "the old" WTW is as we do not use the stain. Ken, Beth & Rod, Jarrod, Celeste or other contractors who use the stain a lot might chime in here and let us know.

[MMI Enterprises 289]

How come I don't hear any suggestions other then Japan Drier?

Trot on down to SW to get some faster reducer into the product to flash the oil better. Needs more heat and more oxygen forced into the oil. Maybe some naptha, toluene, or odorless turpentine....personally I like laquuer thinner :).. The solvent in WTW is likely already a slow spirit and I see recommendation of using more of such on top as just a spreading around and wait game of the apparent slow drying oil. Product simply needs a faster oil and a faster solvent to begin with..... sorry if it offends but my feeling is somebody really screwed up.

Here is a handy reference on solvent/dryer speeds :

ICS on Thinner

[PressurePros 249]

The problem with adding spirits in any appreciable quantity is that it will also water down the pigmentation. Last year's "formula" featured too much pigmentation at the surface (for my taste) and thinning was feasible. This year I notice pigmentation is diving deeper and resulting in a faded look. The cure for other stains/sealers like RS and Baker's is to apply a second coat. Since it has been said again and again that over application is a problem this won't work for WT. Not only that, A second coat for something that costs half the price of WT is understandable. I expect a premium priced product to give premium results.. out of the can.

In retrospect, the other formula was preferable. At least I knew how to solve its inherent issues.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Do you really think a couple of cups of spirits to a fiver will make that much difference in terms of dilution?

Now applying it to a wet deck or cutting it substantially with water, I would agree with you.

Beth

[PressurePros 249]

Honestly Beth, and I don't want to bite your head off because this is not directed at you. Truth be told, I don't want to do a GD thing to it except open a pail and apply it.

[Doug T 19]

Beth,

Scrubbing with mineral spirits did NOT help. I have ordered some percarb and will try that.

Ken, I'm with you on that, open the container and apply is all one should have to do.

I'm glad I don't normally do decks and have to put up with this. But then if I did do decks, I might know what the heck I'm doing. Its a learning experience ( I don't need ).

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Honestly Beth, and I don't want to bite your head off because this is not directed at you. Truth be told, I don't want to do a GD thing to it except open a pail and apply it.

Same here. BTW...well put.

Beth