bigchaz 157 Report post Posted May 16, 2007 700 sq foot all horizontal job I just sold with wood tux wet. Stripped the previous finish and brightened Any tips for the WTW? I learned on my sample tests that it should be really thin. The wood is pine. Planning on using the 18 inch pad for it Anything I should know or y'all recommend before putting it on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 Russell have you ever considered going from a 'boiled' linseed oil that uses dryers, to a fully polymerised 'bodied' linseed oil? If I understand this correctly the old oil based primers use to be a mixture of Raw linseed oil and bodied linseed oil - since there are no dryers present in the 'Bodied' linseed oil - the Raw linseed oil was free and unperturbed to dive deep into the wood without being corrupted by dryers present in the 'boiled' linseed oil. So once the spirits where evaporated - you already had a cross-linked surface layer. Daniel, There is some confusion..I'll try to help... Boiled refers to mix of raw oil, solvents which can be of varying speed, and driers...drys faster.. Bodied refers to raw oil heated without oxygen present to thicken and polymerize hence the implied term that it has more body. It will not help another consistancy oil dive deeper. In case of bodied linseed oil... they dry slower then boiled and they are called 'stand oil'. It's use is to thicken oil mixes and give durability properties. This heating act/polymerization is known as crosslinking which makes a finish durable and solvent resistant and but far as I know doesn't make for neither a faster 'surface' cure or a faster 'through' cure. The term cure means and comes by way of evaporation of the solvent initially and then mainly oxygen uptake (oxydation) creating a reaction (causes heat btw)that turns the oil into a solid composed of a totally different chemical makeup. This fully completed process relates to the general or full curing time. The term 'stand' has two fold meaning in that such oil stands up (has body) or that such oil stands up (has durability). :) . In a sense perhaps you can now see that the resultant thicker/polymerized/crosslinked particles are suspended in a medium and are not really more so on their way to being cured persay... (such is also done in acrylic water based finish). Another way to thicken an oil is to blow it which is act of passing warm to hot air through it....Forgive if this is not totally accurate as it is late and I am not a chemist. You can gleam all this from readily available websites like wikipedia or sites dedicated to oil paintings if you really study hard. This one not bad: Tung & Linseed Oils (note how tung will be faster if bodied in general) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 plainpainter 217 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 I just don't understand why a product that uses a linseed modified alkyd is having such problems curing. Most of the linseed oil primers I use aren't even modified alkyds - they are just the raw ingredients and they don't seem to have any problems curing. I thought that a bodied linseed oil is already polymerised in the can, would only have to wait for the spirits to leach out and then it is automatically cured. Heck I have splashed Raw linseed oil into wood prior to priming - and looked back two weeks later, and certain dribbles were totally cured, rubbery yes, but cured. I have made mixtures of boiled linseed oil and acetone and dunked into my paint brush handles after the wood has been swollen with water while cleaning {to prevent the wood from shrinking away from the ferrule} and it cured in about 3 days. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 The alkyd (resin,binder) is a product in and of itself made by reactive processes. As I understand it, it is supplied to the paint/stain manufactures and they then perform their formulations/mixes which include it. It's properties as stand alone product don't dictate it as fast drying. The overall speed of the mix curing out is probably some average between the recipe items or what they allow of each other. In viewing the recipe items as individuals stuck in their specific chemical state a manufacture or tweaker can hopefully arrive at a product with all the qualities they and we are after. "I thought that a bodied linseed oil is already polymerised in the can, would only have to wait for the spirits to leach out and then it is automatically cured." Stand oil is product in and of itself and is polymerized yes but not cured which is by means of chemical oxidation. It is a recipe item. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 Ok Daniel, I have found a most important website link for you to review. Maybe it will help to define the recipe items more discretly: Boiled (a term for mixing raw oil, solvents, driers) = fast dry Bodied (actually boiled oil) = not so fast :) Seatons :: Natural oils for industry - Stand & blown oils Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 I like pretty colors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 The stuff you guys post, you should go partners in a stain manufacturing business. I'm with Ken. I like pretty colors too ... and a stain that cures on ipe'! Hah!, think I'm near a very thin edge. This has been a real fun week. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bigchaz 157 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 someone go on a tangent here I wanna beat shanes thread:lgsideway Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 No one can beat the unedited Great Bleach Debate. Ever. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 RPetry 564 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 It cannot be done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 plainpainter 217 Report post Posted June 6, 2007 I just mixed my first gallon of the year of my famous wood pre-tratment that uses raw linseed oil as its main ingredient. And the stirring rod I used mix it with is totally dry! And no mildew will grow on this stuff! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Doug T 19 Report post Posted June 7, 2007 Well I do not know about all the others that had problems with WTW, but mine have finally been solved. Received some of the latest formulated WTW from the Sealer Store courtesy of Russell. I had stripped the old WTW off on Tuesday. Applied the new today around noon and by 4PM it was completely dry. So thanks to Beth for her help and to Russell for making it right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted June 7, 2007 I just mixed my first gallon of the year of my famous wood pre-tratment that uses raw linseed oil as its main ingredient. And the stirring rod I used mix it with is totally dry! And no mildew will grow on this stuff! Am interested in where your getting it as well as brand, etc... Raw flax seed oil drying that quik don't sound raw to me. Is supposed to take days if not weeks.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted June 8, 2007 Well I do not know about all the others that had problems with WTW, but mine have finally been solved.Received some of the latest formulated WTW from the Sealer Store courtesy of Russell. I had stripped the old WTW off on Tuesday. Applied the new today around noon and by 4PM it was completely dry. So thanks to Beth for her help and to Russell for making it right. Now that sounds like the WT we love! Woohoo! Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bigchaz 157 Report post Posted June 8, 2007 Finished a surface yesterday in the sun and the tux was drying almost before I could backbrush. Deck looks great Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 plainpainter 217 Report post Posted June 8, 2007 Kevin - it's what I mix the Raw linseed oil with - and I have tried my recipe with 4 or so different brands of Raw linseed oil. It's not a deck stain - but more of penetrant that's meant to soak into the wood. But it sure does look like a beautiful stain at first. Maybe I will try putting some trans oxide tints into - to see what happens. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bigchaz 157 Report post Posted June 8, 2007 Well looks like we are tied with the bleach thread...and no edits way to go guys Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 seymore 90 Report post Posted June 8, 2007 Alright this thread is closed from now on! :cool: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted June 13, 2007 Past or currently unfolding issues with some stains sure are concerning. Almost got to wonder if your case Beth is one of manufacture satisfying all the small orders first. I like confirmation and tracking #'s the day things are posted...Did you call them? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted June 13, 2007 Breath.....deep breaths..... I had two orders in with the manufacturer, one for 10 pails, one for 8. We try to order as we book jobs in order to stay on top of the schedule. I need those pails, and more at this point. Breath.....deep breaths.... Rod spoke to Russell a while back about the non drying issue. Since then we have corresponded frequently and I have emailed and IM'ed them many times. I have been given a number of shipping dates, none of them solid. The online store is supposed to generate a tracking number when things ship but I have asked and asked and asked and have gotten nothing, until this afternoon when I canceled my order and all of a sudden I get an email saying they shipped on the 12th - still no tracking number though. Now I am a patient person, and we are willing to work through issues, but enough is enough. Kevin, I think you hit the nail smack dab on the head. In fact, I would bet money on it and I'm not a betting person. I'll stop here or I might not be a nice person.... :mad::taz::angryfire:banghead: Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted June 15, 2007 Good thing too, it gets worse! Rod!~ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bigchaz 157 Report post Posted June 15, 2007 Mine finally shipped!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted June 15, 2007 So did ours thanks to Deck Stains and Brick Paver/Cement Sealers - Exterior Wood Deck and Paver Restoration Services and Sales !!! Thank you Scott! Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 bigchaz 157 Report post Posted June 15, 2007 Scotts the man! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted June 20, 2007 We got our pails and they were PERFECT with a capital P. Packed to pail perfection with no punctures. Pails were placed in plastic pouches (bags) with tight closures and packing paper filled in around them, then placed in boxes and packaged up tight. (did I get enough words that begin with "P" in there?) Way to go Scott Paul! Beth p.s. will report tomorrow on what I brushed on two boards. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 MMI Enterprises 289 Report post Posted June 20, 2007 Kevin - it's what I mix the Raw linseed oil with - and I have tried my recipe with 4 or so different brands of Raw linseed oil. It's not a deck stain - but more of penetrant that's meant to soak into the wood. But it sure does look like a beautiful stain at first. Maybe I will try putting some trans oxide tints into - to see what happens. pssst..can't say for horizontals but many old painters swear by 50/50 boiled flax and TWS :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
700 sq foot all horizontal job I just sold with wood tux wet. Stripped the previous finish and brightened
Any tips for the WTW? I learned on my sample tests that it should be really thin. The wood is pine. Planning on using the 18 inch pad for it
Anything I should know or y'all recommend before putting it on?
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