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rholman

burner exhaust adapter

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I bought an Alkota 8305 that is going to be in an enclosed trailer. The dealer i bought it from is hardly computer literate and is on the verge of going out of business. Anyway, the exhaust burner adapter that supposedly costs $130 looked like some cobble job....I need to know if there is a manufacturer that makes these adapters out of stainless steel and/or custom made for an alkota 8305....I think the adapter looks like crap and almost told the guy to get lost, BUT I have been waiting 2 months to get this machine and am ready to work. i have seen some 'clean' adapters in some past threads, but can't remember where. thanks for your help.

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Looks like a register boot for a HVAC system...it will not last long exposed to high stack temps. I also do not like the fact that it is sealed to the machine...you need an air gap between the collector and the machine for make up air to promote proper drafting, or the coil will soot up. A burner fan is designed to push enough air for proper combustion...it is not there to push spent exhaust gasses up a stack. I have custom collectors made in a HVAC sheet metal shop out of heavy gauge metal. A good one will run you around the $130.00 you paid for that. Check your local Yellow Pages for HVAC supply houses and call and see if they do "in house" fabrication. They'll help you with the design and everything.

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i found this pic on some forum a little while back....is this sufficient spacing between the machine and the piping? in your opinion is my dealer trying to rip me off telling me that it costs $130 just for the adapter. What the tape covers up is the 'hack job' cutting that he did to get it to form around the coil. he taped it because he probably used regular scissors to cut the metal! No sheet metal screws either...just tape holding that in place...If there are any ALKOTA dealers on this site please pipe in. i can't believe that Alkota would not offer an adapter for their machines. I will be visiting an HVAC place on monday to get his exhaust done right. Thanks for your advice guys.....keep it coming.

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i found this pic on some forum a little while back....is this sufficient spacing between the machine and the piping? in your opinion is my dealer trying to rip me off telling me that it costs $130 just for the adapter. What the tape covers up is the 'hack job' cutting that he did to get it to form around the coil. he taped it because he probably used regular scissors to cut the metal! No sheet metal screws either...just tape holding that in place...If there are any ALKOTA dealers on this site please pipe in. i can't believe that Alkota would not offer an adapter for their machines. I will be visiting an HVAC place on monday to get his exhaust done right. Thanks for your advice guys.....keep it coming.

Yes, that is a perfect example of the spacing needed.

Seems to me, too, that part of your exhaust port is covered with sheet metal, further blocking the flow.

None of the machine manufacturers offer exhaust adapters that I know of.

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I'm thinking that it must be some kind of liability issue for them to offer that adapter. otherwise why in the world wouldn't they? I also am planning on using the existing vent hole on the roof of the trailer to route the exhaust, but the vent isn't directly above the exhuast port. Do you think that two 45 degree bends will be ok? I'm really trying to avoid cutting another hole in the roof. here is a pic of the rig. Notice where the vent is in relation to the exhaust port. thanks for your info Russ!

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I bought my Delco vertical PW about 1996, so it has not been used much, I'm only on my 5th or 6th pump, and 2nd coil. I plumbed my duct out the roof, no air gap between the duct and the burner stack. Seems to work fine.

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I didn't have much luck today finding a reasonable deal on a custom fab exhaust. I was quoted a price of $800 to do it properly. Apparently that piece of crap adapter was a $10 register boot. Good call Russ... and it would have melted within a week probably(so the metal fab guy said). I talked to Alkota today and the burner puts out 490,000 btu and the temp gets up to 600 degrees. That ain't no joke! Does anyone have specifics of what guage metal they used and maybe even pics? I don't want to cut corners, but i also don't think $800 is reasonable. I talked to 3 HVAC places also today...2 said "forget about it"....the other came and looked at it, but stayed firm on not quoting a price. He also didn't do "in-house" metal fab, so he's out of the picture. This is really turning into a headache. One thing that made me laugh when I talked to Alkota today was when i asked what they recommend using for an exhaust kit. The guy said "well every state is different and has different codes...." Huh? I didn't know that the proper venting of a pressure washer in an enclosed trailer would differ from state to state. So basically, it is definitely a liability issue and they want no part in providing guidance so they aren't on the hook...just in case of a trailer fire. I understand their side of it to a certain extent, but it's also kinda shady to me to not educate your customer with the proper way to vent your product. Considering that I probably would have burned down my trailer because of an Alkota reps dumb idea....I don't see how it keeps them clear of liability by being silent on the issue.

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that's a bummer Rick, but I've basically ran into the same problem. You may want to try a muffler shop, they have some talented welders that can fabricate just about anything...

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Apparently that piece of crap adapter was a $10 register boot. Good call Russ... and it would have melted within a week probably(so the metal fab guy said).

Hey, I said it was 10 bucks first, what am I chopped liver? It is not going to melt, it just needs to be attached properly. I used a off the shelf cap for quite a while to keep the rain out, and keep the exhaust from heating up fire sprinkler links and it never melted. Only bad thing is i did not tighten it down often and it blew away one night.

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Rick,

Don't know if it would help but if you get over to the Mt Clemens area, I'll show you the HVAC company that made mine. Its been years but it was a around $75.00.

Also if you measure the opening, call Larry at Delco. They have some for their units and it might be the same size.

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Alkota is coming through after all....they are sending a stainless steel adapter in the mail.....designing it today and shipping tomorrow. I'll post a pic when i get it. I gotta wonder if these posts have something do with the instant response. free of charge is the best part!!!! Thanks for all your help guys.

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Doug, thanks for offering that info...it sounds like I'm getting taken care of on this trailer, but I will definitely get back with you in the future for the 2nd rig. i want to duplicate the rig i am working on now. i doubt I'll be getting any more freebies from Alkota, so i love the sound of $75!... it sure beats what i was quoted yesterday($800 included EVERYTHING....adapter ....pipe...flashing...cap)

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I received the adapter yesterday from Alkota! Thank you Alkota(I know you are watching me..lol) I don't usually "plug" manufacturers, but i feel like they went out of their way to remedy this situation. Anyway, i took the adapter to a metal fab guy and he finished the install for around $250. He finished it in a few hours and I just have to route the engine exhaust tomorrow through the burner exhaust piping. I can't wait to get to work!!

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RH, is there an air gap where the double wall meets the single wall?

...I know you have positive fuel shutoff, in the burner, but I had one bad experience...

We used an oil burner to heat a shop in winter, extended the stack up maybe 15' thru the tin roof. thing took off like a jet and would not slow down!

We barely got it under control. Ha!

...You know how there is a air gap between the top of your household water heater, and the flue pipe ?

I dunno... I guess if Alkota designed it, it's probably good. it looks good!

r

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I am pretty much trusting Alkota on this one....my understanding is that they custom made this adapter specifically for the 8305. I'm not sure if they had adapters for their lower GPM machines already or not, but I think that they will be offering this adapter to their customers in the future. The adapter does have a very small gap where it meets the coil housing cover(or whatever you call the thing), but probably not enough to help with up-air. If I would have went with the double 45 degree design then I think I would have insisted on a gap. Also, the pipe goes through the roof with NO COVER on the top so it is virtually unrestricted. Any rain that comes down through the pipe will come out the bottom drain hoses of the coil. I am "hoping" that when I route the engine exhaust through the vent also that that will cause up-air. I could be totally wrong about that though. I have always used open trailer units so this whole deal has been a learning experience for me. I will fire it up tomorrow and see what happens. thanks guys for all your input

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i found this pic on some forum a little while back....is this sufficient spacing between the machine and the piping? in your opinion is my dealer trying to rip me off telling me that it costs $130 just for the adapter. What the tape covers up is the 'hack job' cutting that he did to get it to form around the coil. he taped it because he probably used regular scissors to cut the metal! No sheet metal screws either...just tape holding that in place...If there are any ALKOTA dealers on this site please pipe in. i can't believe that Alkota would not offer an adapter for their machines. I will be visiting an HVAC place on monday to get his exhaust done right. Thanks for your advice guys.....keep it coming.

Hey, thats my pic. Actually I ended up changing out to 6 inch pipe all the way up. getting to much back flow where it was restricted. I also pushed it all the way down so the adaptor is right on the stainless. It is cut with tin snips and a little bending to get it to fit right.

I beleive the reason the manufacturers dont offer this is that the exhaust is forced out a pretty small opening already and if you add pipe with anybends to it, or too small a pipe, the back pressure can be too much and cause other problems. (Happened to me on a different machine and blew out the ignitor.)

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oops, never mind, just saw the pics of the adaptor they sent. that looks nice.

For anyone else, all the parts I used came from lowes, in the AC isle. $50 max.

The nice one from Alkota looks a lot neater though!

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My limited experience with the hvac ones are that they'll rust up pretty fast but won't melt.

Currently I am without any type a stack for neither the burner or the engine. Since I am in an all steel trailer and there is a standard trailer vent opening just offset from the burner top the heat comes out fine with no danger of melting anything. Without the metal trailer I don't think I would have been able to take things a step further in making my machine a fully portable unit that can go in and out regularly as now it is too high in there to really mount any sort of a stack at all. If I pry it I can get one little piece of cut off hvac register up in there. Found that it just not really needed in my case anyways...I made a lift up type utility door along side of trailer and I open when running so that ends issues with the engine exhaust pretty much all together.

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Seen a washer crammed into a mintruck the other day with a shell on top. They said they do hood vents with it. They also had the lift up doors on the shell mind you...is only thing I can figure that allows them to not burn up. Maybe them shells are tougher then I thought and can take some measure of heat..

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