replacing boards

[jnoden 15]

Ive been getting more requests lately to replace boards. I usually only flip them or let them know if any are replaced that they will stick out like a soar thumb for a couple years. I want to buy some boards and let them season (cant find any seasoned boards or kiln dried lumber at lumber places around here). I heard though that during the drying process the boards will warp until the point that they are unusuble. Does anyone know about this?

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

It can happen (warping/cupping) if the boards are cuts that are prone to this kind of dynamic change. I had kept a few from a reskinning job we did for just that reason. Problem was, not many really want used lumber or aged lumber. They want new and so we oblige.

Even though the boards look obvious when new comparatively to the old, it is a better thing to replace bad ones than try to age new ones. It takes up what is called cash flow and becomes unnecessary inventory IMBO.

Rod!~

[Chappy 138]

Im the worst dang carpenter in history, and I tell people that. I really cant cut a board straight. I will replace when absolutely necessary though and make sure I buy extra to compensate for my bad cuts.

Just do the replacement before the cleaning.

[Deck Guy 14]

I have replaced a few here and there and don't seem to have trouble with them matching. I charge $25 per board, and usually it ends up being just a handrail or two.

[bigchaz 157]

Matching hasn't been a huge problem but getting the boards to fit seems to be more difficult for me. Replaced 6 decking boards the other day after tearing out the old and they were too wide to fit as replacements. The older boards were probably a 1/4 inch less wide than the new ones. Since hte boards were in the middle of the deck I ended up having to sand the edges of the new ones and hammer them down. Cant stick a piece of floss between the cracks its so tight.

[Tmrrptr 164]

Chaz, rather than sand all the boards for a fill, it works well to rip 3/4 off a couple of them and round over the cut edge w a coarse file.

I use my 8ft level, clamped to the board for a fence, to run my skilsaw against, to make a clean looong cut, but you can also use a fence attachment for a 77.

I like a fence better, though, because you can make diagonal cuts, if needed, for those fine, out-of-square projects.

r

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I have had to rip a little off the sides to make new ones fit as well. Then I use a router with a 1/2" round bit to round over the ripped edge to make it match.

Rod!~

[A C F 14]

You can always sticker the boards so they won't warp or cup. 3/4 X 3/4 inch lumber maybe 2 foot long. Put these on the floor every 2 - 3 feet. Lay down your lumber single height on the stickers. another set of stickers where the lower ones are. Another layer of boards.

If you can, top off with a layer of stickers, and lay something heavy on the top stickers. This will allow them to dry while they cannot move. This is the method they use when kiln drying lumber.

Let me know if this does not make sense, or if you want more information.T

Todd