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sealwizeofatlanta

Removing Silicone Based Sealants

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Looking for ideas on best way to remove products whose base is silicone. Stripping and sanding doesn't remove the material from the pores completely. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and I want everyone to know I think this is a great forum for those in this profession! All ideas shared save us money! Thanks again.

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Sealwize.....

You aren't one of those snake oil salesmen who dupe unsuspecting homeowners with that "miracle 30yr, never seal your deck again" stuff are you?? If you fill out your user CP you'll probably get some legitimate answers to your questions.

As for the sillycone stains (like Behr), they can be removed with the proper mix of stripper and boosters, proper dwell time, along with osborne buffing. We do these often, and with good results.

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Strip the finish off and then strip it again ( burn the wood). Another method is stripping the deck and letting it weather for 6 months to a year. It also depends on what sealer your going to use.

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No, I don't consider myself a snake oil salesman. I do believe in the product I am selling however and based on customer reaction there is a strong attraction to a sealant that is environmentally friendly, that never breaks down and provides visible and long lasting water protection. I have read previous posts voicing skepticism, but note I have not once offered rebuttle or argument.

I thought there were rules about not attacking members who seek and share answers?

Sealwize.....

You aren't one of those snake oil salesmen who dupe unsuspecting homeowners with that "miracle 30yr, never seal your deck again" stuff are you?? If you fill out your user CP you'll probably get some legitimate answers to your questions.

As for the sillycone stains (like Behr), they can be removed with the proper mix of stripper and boosters, proper dwell time, along with osborne buffing. We do these often, and with good results.

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Sealwize,

I'm not knocking the product so much as the sales technique involved, and I'm certainly not knocking you personally. I've dealt with numerous customers who've been down that road, and many we're lead to believe that their beautiful deck would remain beautiful for decades, only to realize that a year later their deck looked old and weathered (beaded water still, but looked horrible). As for the sealing properties of your product, I imagine its as great as you say. Most deck customers want a stained look that will last forever. We all know that thats a pipe dream, and maintenance is the only way to keep the fresh appearance. I understand that your product may be great for concrete and waterproofing, but i would never put something on a wooden structure to petrify it. Keep on doing what you doing. It makes me money:winking:

As for seeking and sharing answers, I think I've contributed plenty, how about you?? I also gave an answer to your question. Still don't know who I'm talking to though.......

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I never tell any of my customers that the color I apply will last. I tell them mine nor anyone elses will last forever. Customers know when they choose a color, maintenance at some point will be required. What I tell them is that they will never seal their wood again, which provides lifetime protection against water damage. Protecting their investment is foremost, looks come second.

I know you have doubts and that is fine. You have been educated about this approach and I have no intentions of trying to teach or sell anyone about the technlogy via this forum. I merely want to participate in the learning!

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Looking for ideas on best way to remove products whose base is silicone. Stripping and sanding doesn't remove the material from the pores completely. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and I want everyone to know I think this is a great forum for those in this profession! All ideas shared save us money! Thanks again.

If you have already stripped and sanded and you still have evidence of silicone, replace or flip the boards.

The wood in ATL is usu. PT pine or Cedar which is pretty soft wood which will "drink" the silicone base meaning it penetrates deep.

.... flip 'em and go with an oil based stain. It's more managable IMO.

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