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Scott Paul

One Year Old TWP Stain

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Here is a picture of TWP that I put on my deck in April 2008. I flipped back the rug that has been on the deck for the entire year to show the dfference. Besides the wood being a little dirty on the outside parts, there is no difference and zero color fading.

post-948-137772238682_thumb.jpg

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That is pretty impressive, looks like wood isnt too dried out. I presume that is 100 series, which will probably be non existant next year when voc standards go 250 nationwide next year. The 500 series is voc compliant.

SCOTT, Do you know if they are going to keep the 100 series and keep both series?

Based on similar pricing AClark will out perform twp 500 series based on what Ive seen.

Edited by acegot

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What I like best about the picture is that the knots are dark. I've stained my pressure treated deck two years in a row with timberoil, twice the first time - and the second year's coat back sometime in October. And for the second straight year - all the knots are bleaching out white again!

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Dan, I think that is petty common high w/paraffinic sealers, it just doesnt soak in & stay. You need more resin to stick to the hard areas to coat them. Thats my pinion on all the tests Ive done. All my testing is on Redwood & a little cedar both yellow & w/red. I did do 1 pt pine one once back in '96 or 7.

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This is 200 series, which I actually removed from sale since no one was buying it. The 100 series will be replaced with the 400 series I believe when the time comes. The 500 series is good too but not quite as good as this 200 series or the 100 series. I have tried the 100, 200, and 500 on my deck. All held color very well but the 100 and the 500 would wear off slightly in high traffic areas. This 200 is the best I have ever seen on my deck. No fading or wear patterns. All the TWP series never turn black either.

Here is another

post-948-137772238897_thumb.jpg

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Scott - I suggest you reinstall the 200 series. Any chance of more samples? I'd like to do a bunch of test boards with the different colors for customers - I believe that 200 series is going to be my 'goto' stain with the results I am seeing there. I'd like to abandon any curing resins for the 'softer' wood species decks, I like the properties I am seeing - yet haven't quite had the quality that I am seeing in the photos.

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Scott - I suggest you reinstall the 200 series. Any chance of more samples? I'd like to do a bunch of test boards with the different colors for customers - I believe that 200 series is going to be my 'goto' stain with the results I am seeing there. I'd like to abandon any curing resins for the 'softer' wood species decks, I like the properties I am seeing - yet haven't quite had the quality that I am seeing in the photos.
Dan, There is one problem with the 200 series that I failed to mention and noticed on my deck. The 200 series is loaded with trans oxides and parafin oil. It is designed for dried out wood such as cedar shake roofs and shingles. The cedar on my deck is actually more of a smooth cedar. It took almost 10 days for the 200 series to dry on my deck. It also goes on very dark in color and will take nearly a month to cure/lighten to it's final color. This can be an issue for customers. The drying issue could be related to the fact that I applied in April and the weather was in the 40's for the 10 days it took to dry.

As far as adding it back on the shelves, it probably would be an issue since they already picked up my inventory. It also went up in price substanially since 2008 (about 16%). If need be I could look into drop shipping for you.

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That would be great - I'd like to give it a go - judging from what you have said already. I think that's an important product in our arsenal - we should all be using it more - I guess it's time to raise awareness?

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FYI on the 200 series - we had a call from a hardwood deck owner that had 200 series on her Ipe - did NOT do well. Installed several months after deck was built so not on brand new installation - seemed to "wash" away fairly quickly as the deck is only now a yearish old. Didn't see it, only spoke to her by phone.

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FYI on the 200 series - we had a call from a hardwood deck owner that had 200 series on her Ipe - did NOT do well. Installed several months after deck was built so not on brand new installation - seemed to "wash" away fairly quickly as the deck is only now a yearish old. Didn't see it, only spoke to her by phone.

Celeste - one year old ipe is certainly not a candidate for this type of finish - I am thinking more along the lines of well aged pressure treated that stands to soak in alot of stain.

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Celeste - one year old ipe is certainly not a candidate for this type of finish - I am thinking more along the lines of well aged pressure treated that stands to soak in alot of stain.

I have to agree....besides, NOTHING lasts well on ipe...it's...IPE.

Beth

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The 200 series is to thick ( very high solid content) for Ipe. So it was a bad choice for a deck thats only a couple of months old. The wood couldn't absorb the oil so it washed away. So they should of cut the oil to reduce the solid content or use the 100 series. The 200 series is even a little to high in solids for a cedar decks. 60 to 70 percent works better. The 200 is great for old PT, cedar shakes and very very old cedar. If you have trouble with is drying out . Dip a rag in some spirits and push it with a broom over the floor boards and this will help dry it out.

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The 200 series is to thick ( very high solid content) for Ipe. So it was a bad choice for a deck thats only a couple of months old. The wood couldn't absorb the oil so it washed away. So they should of cut the oil to reduce the solid content or use the 100 series. The 200 series is even a little to high in solids for a cedar decks. 60 to 70 percent works better. The 200 is great for old PT, cedar shakes and very very old cedar. If you have trouble with is drying out . Dip a rag in some spirits and push it with a broom over the floor boards and this will help dry it out.
Correct. It is designed for older more dried out wood.

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You can get 5 gallons of Baker's for $75-$80, a product and price you can't go wrong with. It wouldn't surprise me to see Baker's last a little longer than the 200 Series TWP on just slightly aged wood since Baker's has more mineral spirits in it to increase penetration. Now on very old wood I could see the 200 series lasting longer in theory, it should last longer if it contains transparent iron oxides. Now you can see why Shane from Texas has had all those years of great jobs. The A-C is very similar and is lasting very well on test boards right beside Baker's.

Edited by YVPW

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Scott - I suggest you reinstall the 200 series. Any chance of more samples? I'd like to do a bunch of test boards with the different colors for customers - I believe that 200 series is going to be my 'goto' stain with the results I am seeing there. I'd like to abandon any curing resins for the 'softer' wood species decks, I like the properties I am seeing - yet haven't quite had the quality that I am seeing in the photos.
Dan, I added it back to my site in 5 Gallon Pails only. I need to drop ship them. If you order the Cedar 201 it will be $159.99 per pail + shipping and will ship out from the NE area. All other colors will drop directly from Amteco and they will charge me an extra $20 per pail plus shipping costs.

Sorry but this is the best scenario I could come up with.

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I am coming to the conclusion that nothing performs on newer decks - even pressure treated that's exposed to the elements for a year seems to be barely stainable, imo.

I am going to consider Scott's Creto wood for fairly new pressure treated from now on. And just let the harder woods age. Even TSP/Bleach brushed only opens the top surface and breaks up the millglaze - but it still doesn't 'open' up the top layer of wood for deep penetration.

I did this one pressure treated deck that was a year old - and had a big stainless steel grille that sat in one spot. I took the grill off - cleaned the deck with a bleach/TSP solution, along with the house, to knock off the grey wood and mildew. And pumped on a strong concentration of OX to really bleach the heck out of it - the deck accepted woodtux fairly well - but that one spot with the grille - even though got a brushed TSP/Bleach cleaner and a strong OX solution had stain sitting on top of the surface, where as the remainder of the deck the stain soaked in!

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