Cracks

[Tonyg 14]

Looking for lesson #132

Finished a deck today about 5 yrs old that had behr stain on it - alkyd I believe. It was going from a badly applied "reddish" color to the AC SC. I'm just not happy with the cracks, and its not the first time but going to the lighter tone of the SC, it was more noticeable to me.

Is there a trick to address the runs in the crack? This pic is after stripping and sanding.

Oh, and after the David Carradine stunt I prefer not to be called Grasshopper.

Edited June 27, 2009 by Tonyg

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Is the owner open to a blend between the Sierra Redwood and the Semi-Cedar? (ends up in a cinnamon tone)

Wax on, wax off!

No simple way to sand it....make...match 'da floor!

Beth

[Tonyg 14]

It's already been stained and although the HO is out of town I am sure he will be happy with it. He was also pretty set on using the SC since I did the neighbors "New" deck in it last summer. I guess I'm looking at next time. The runs were not as noticeable before stripping but after I was able to get "normal" stain in the cracks off I tried to get the slopped stain like here.

Just wasn't sure if it would be more damage to use a stronger stripperto get the cracks at the expense of furring or if there was a special Crack Sander that was reserved for the WSS (Woody Secret Society).

[plainpainter 217]

you should have definitely used a stronger stripper/cleaner solution - you didn't get the wood clean! It's as grey as 2-3 yr. old exposed untreated deck!

[plainpainter 217]

Here is my front porch - I stripped it 2 years ago and never got around to staining it - so it just 'greyed out'. I was experimenting the other day with Bob's F-18 leftover from another job brushed it on at 12 ozs/gallon - and washed it off like 20-30 seconds later. Then I tried my new floor sander I had just acquired. Haven't yet neutralized the wood - nor am I done sanding. But you get the idea of how wood is suppose to look like - you can see a few strands of silver in the middle boards - where the sander hasn't sanded down enough and the very left margin where the sander can't get close to the edge. The wood is 19 years old - btw.

[Tonyg 14]

you should have definitely used a stronger stripper/cleaner solution - you didn't get the wood clean! It's as grey as 2-3 yr. old exposed untreated deck!

I don't know if I agree Dan. I wasn't happy with the cracks but the surface was stripped, neutralized, floor sander, and hand sanded.

Edited June 27, 2009 by Tonyg

[PressurePros 249]

That third shot in the last series actually gives me the heebie jeebies.

I am fanatical about that area between the boards. The right cleaner and washing technique usually take care of it. On a product like you were stripping, you were waging an uphill battle, Tony. There is no secret sander unfortunately. When I wash a deck floor I make sure that that there is always a stream of water partially in a crack.

[plainpainter 217]

I apologize, Tony, on one computer those pics look totally grey - the Dell laptop. But now I am on my Imac - the wood looks fine. Goes to show the monitor makes all the difference!

I have noticed over time - that guys that stain boards but don't brush out between the boards, so you get those dribbles - they're always the hardest to strip. There is a technique to washing the deck that minimizes it - but even then, if they used any stain with tung oil resins/alkyds - those 'dribbies' shall remain!

[acegot 14]

if there was a special Crack Sander that was reserved for the WSS (Woody Secret Society).

Tony, first of all great job on the deck, owners should be real happy with the transformation.

I have a couple of methods to sand the cracks, I will post pics in a few days or so, havent used in a while, need to find & I have a busy weekl coming up.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Tony,

The deck looks great sealed. Don't let them bust your chops.

Beth :cup:

[acegot 14]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tonyg

if there was a special Crack Sander that was reserved for the WSS (Woody Secret Society).

Tony, first of all great job on the deck, owners should be real happy with the transformation.

I have a couple of methods to sand the cracks, I will post pics in a few days or so, havent used in a while, need to find & I have a busy weekl coming up.

Here are pics of manual & power crack sanders. The manual is a crack cleaning tool that added a hd 7" fibre back sanding disc folded over & modified to attach. (50Grit) Works on 1/4" crack or larger. The power sander works on 3/16" or larger cracks & uses 7" fibre discs back to back with a 4.5" backing pad.

[RPetry 564]

Tony,

Real nice prep job. Do not listen to Daniel, he is only contractor in this universe that has trouble with paraffinic oil stains!

Lyle,

Holy smokes, a manual plus a power sander for cracks? Please stay in Calif., I do not want my customers to see that!

[PressurePros 249]

Lyle, I hope you charge at least $5 per s/f of deck footprint. That's too far over the top for me but I do stand corrected, there ARE magic sanders.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Lyle,

Holy smokes, a manual plus a power sander for cracks? Please stay in Calif., I do not want my customers to see that!

Now that's funny I don't care where you come from!

I can see points in all the above posts regarding stain removal between the boards.

My input is this: apply with a more direct intention of getting in between the boards and keep it wet. These drips are going to take longer than what is on the surface areas so dwell time is key here.

Using the various ideas offered here is going to help get rid of the remainder. Keep in mind the next time a customer wants to go from a contrasting stain to something lighter or less pigmented and price it accordingly...possibly as a line item so that the customer can have a better appreciation of the labor required to alleviate this condition which surely happens when applied by roller.

Rod!~

[RPetry 564]

... Using the various ideas offered here is going to help get rid of the remainder. Keep in mind the next time a customer wants to go from a contrasting stain to something lighter or less pigmented and price it accordingly...possibly as a line item so that the customer can have a better appreciation of the labor required to alleviate this condition which surely happens when applied by roller.

Rod!~

Rod,

People in Calif. are odd, and must be some real sticklers. Customers in my area are near overwhelmed if you stain between the deck boards!

[Tonyg 14]

Now that's funny I don't care where you come from!

I can see points in all the above posts regarding stain removal between the boards.

My input is this: apply with a more direct intention of getting in between the boards and keep it wet. These drips are going to take longer than what is on the surface areas so dwell time is key here.

Using the various ideas offered here is going to help get rid of the remainder. Keep in mind the next time a customer wants to go from a contrasting stain to something lighter or less pigmented and price it accordingly...possibly as a line item so that the customer can have a better appreciation of the labor required to alleviate this condition which surely happens when applied by roller.

Rod!~

Lyle,

You're either border line genius or neurotic one the two. I LOVE IT! I will be thinking of ways to create something similar in the future.

As Rod said, I think application of several suggestions would help me. Relaying the correct expectations to HO of what to expect and give options, maybe a bit stronger/longer dwell stripping, more direct water stream, taking care to work on the angles, and then the new WSS Crack Sander!

I don't think I will be selling restorations that include sanding cracks but right now I am going for perfection until I get enough under my belt. I am also really trying to do more than expected as well and I think this would put that over the top.

Thanks everyone for great advice

Edited June 30, 2009 by Tonyg

[acegot 14]

I dont use them very often, when those situations arise I just give them an option on the proposal. Most people dont worry about the cracks, but people like the fact that I even offer. It lets them know I am willing to do whatever it takes & what ever they would want to make their outdoor living space beautifull.

Redwood is so soft & can be so vulnerable to chems & furring that i dont try to strip deep between the boards because of furring oon certain cuts of boards. Thats why I came up with the "WSS CRACK SANDERS", good job Tony

[bigchaz 157]

I dont think Lyle even needs a pressure washer or chems. He simply has a massive array of power tools that do everything imaginable to restore a deck.

I hear his latest invention is a circular sander with a small hose through the spindle that supplies stain to some lambswool connected on a rubber backer pad. The buffing action of the lambswool drives stain into the wood and polishes it to a shine all in one step

[acegot 14]

Good one Charlie. You forget to mention its fed by my Deckster. LOL

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Rod,

People in Calif. are odd, and must be some real sticklers. Customers in my area are near overwhelmed if you stain between the deck boards!

Rick,

This is the DC area. We once had a customer who had a cedar deck that had the boards way too close together. The little propeller things from the trees got caught between the boards, and you could not get them out. It was a nightmare. We were there to strip and seal the deck, and all the owner could focus on was how the little propeller things did not come 100% out from between the boards.....

Had another customer with one of those awful Behr redwood fiasco type stains. Stripped the deck. Looked tons better. a couple boards had drip marks. All he could look at was that. Never mind the fantastic strip and seal job.....

It takes all kinds.

Beth :cup:

[acegot 14]

Beth, Its a shame when people loose site of the big picture & dont acknowledge your efforts when youre there. And by the way, Ive got a tool for that! LOL :D

[fireandrain 39]

Rod,

People in Calif. are odd,

DDO? Odd we not are not we are in calofornea!

[RPetry 564]

DDO? Odd we not are not we are in calofornea!

Matt,

You have proved my point! BTW, what the frick does "DDO" mean? Must be some kid slang us old salts have trouble with...

Brain has been on hold for the past 8 yrs. I guess DDO is ODD spelled backwards...

Edited June 30, 2009 by RPetry