Jump to content
  • 0
Sign in to follow this  
stoppie101

help! stain on vynal siding

Question

22 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

If it's vinyl siding, use a diluted amount of stripper. If it's alluminum siding, try using some type of degreaser on a test spot where no one will see it. You want to make sure whatever you use to remove the stain won't also damage the alluminum siding.

Henry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Chad,

For vinyl siding try the following, depending on what you have in your arsenal and how long the stain has been on ther and what type it is.

1. Goof Off

2. Easy Off oven cleaner (same premis as using a stripper)

3. HD-80 if you have it, then neutralize it

If it was still wet, I would use a degreaser. Keep a bucket of degreaser solution and a few rags with you on all sealing jobs.

For aluminum, if it's wet, use a degreaser. If it's been there a day or more and is hardened and cured - forget it. Degreaser will not remove it. Dried stain or sealer on aluminum siding is tricky simply because you have to use the same items described above but with a slight variation...lots of water and a fast hand after a short dwell time. We have used HD-80 on aluminum siding to remove stain and sealant, but not at full strength, and not for long, and keep it wet as you work.

We make it a habit to remove the prior companies mess when we get a job. One time we were able to help a couple who had a choice, either replace the siding, or remove the stain, and they had to go to settlement. We removed the stain and saved them tons of money. They were thrilled!

Beth :groovy3:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Right after I get done spraying when the deck is dry enough (with oil-based stain), I walk on the deck with just socks on and take down the ton of plastic I put up to prevent splatters. I carry a paper towel with me with some paint thinner on it, and give the house a good look over- and dab up any spots that get through the masking tape and plastic. I've never had any problems with that with as much plastic I put up, and I use it as a selling point to illustrate my thoroughness compared to other deckers in the area who get crap all over the place.

Hey stoppie, tell me how to do a stoppie!! I just bought a 1999 Honda CBR 600 F4, my first sportbike, and laid it down three days later- not scared though, just cosmetic damage on both of us. I'll be back and running soon though, and trying new tricks (maybe).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I've used MEK and Xylene before worked great cept for taking the paint off.I'll try using stripper next time tho.

Beth did the stripper you use take some paint off the siding?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

thanks for all the great advice. i'll sop by in the morning and see what works. i'll let you know.hey staudend. go to stunlife.com. you'll find everything you need and more there! and if you look closley at my avatar, i'm using my left hand on the break lever. dont try that one at home boys and girls, i'm a professional.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Did you just miss a few spots when you were done? After a mistake I made, on my second job ever, I check the siding at least 3 times over when I'm done. Mineral spirits for al oil based and soap and water soaked rag for most acrylics. I sealed this guys deck and there was over spray on the oxidized aluminum siding behind a bush. Well, he called me to come remove it. I was a rookie so I thought hmmm stripper will take it off. After the paint came off I was crappin' bricks. It was grey siding so I used some gray primer spray paint and you could'nt even tell. I was lucky, but you live and you learn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

A sodium hydroxide based stripper (HD-80 is one) will remove the paint on aluminum siding if you are not careful, yes. Use it gently, quickly, and rinse very thoroughly and neutralize so you stop the reaction on the paint.

Best of luck to you!

Beth :groovy:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I carry Simple Green in my arsenal. It works well for many applications and circumstances. It is great on the aluminum siding if it is fairly recent. Once it is set a bit I go to the other previous recommendations.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
Chad,

For vinyl siding try the following, depending on what you have in your arsenal and how long the stain has been on ther and what type it is.

1. Goof Off

2. Easy Off oven cleaner (same premis as using a stripper)

3. HD-80 if you have it, then neutralize it

If it was still wet, I would use a degreaser. Keep a bucket of degreaser solution and a few rags with you on all sealing jobs.

For aluminum, if it's wet, use a degreaser. If it's been there a day or more and is hardened and cured - forget it. Degreaser will not remove it. Dried stain or sealer on aluminum siding is tricky simply because you have to use the same items described above but with a slight variation...lots of water and a fast hand after a short dwell time. We have used HD-80 on aluminum siding to remove stain and sealant, but not at full strength, and not for long, and keep it wet as you work.

We make it a habit to remove the prior companies mess when we get a job. One time we were able to help a couple who had a choice, either replace the siding, or remove the stain, and they had to go to settlement. We removed the stain and saved them tons of money. They were thrilled!

Beth :groovy3:

I had the same problem today using Warm Honey Gold. Normally I just use a rag with paint thinner and the sealer wipes off very easily when we are finished.

The home is in a new subdivision and less than 5 years old. The siding is not oxidized at all. I have not tried Easy Off oven cleaner yet, but have tried HD80 and Goof Off with no luck at all.

Maybe some HD80 booster? My laborers also got sealer on the concrete in a small area. I hope something works because the customer has turned out to be very anal and is also complaining about sealer in the grass. I will never use an airless again, from now on everything will be rolled and brushed.

Just had to get this off my chest. I will be up all night worrying about it. The money is insignificant, I am more worried about what a Woman with this type of personality will say about my company. I DO NOT want to be one of those Contractors from HELL that we have all heard about.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Jesse

When i get oil base stain on concrete i use Xylene or MEK scrub it real well.It might take a few tries to get it out but it worked for me.Simple green for the vynal cause the strong chems will take the paint off

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Wood Tux is not easy to remove once it dries. It has a really wonderful resin system, which makes the product very durable.

Make it a habit to clean as you apply and get it off when wet.

The HD-80 should work. How strong did you mix it? Also some vinyl siding it will absorb a bit. You need to RUB RUB RUB to get it out. Mix it at 8 oz to the gallon.

Rod wants to know what color the siding is also. He said some colors such as white are a real pistol to clean since everything will show up. Be aware that you may see a shadow on the siding from the oils.

On the concrete, you can strip that too.

Post a pic if you have one.

Hang in there. Tomorrow is friday!

Beth

p.s. Seymore, what do you mean strong chems will take the paint off vinyl siding? Vinyl is plastic - it's molded into the siding. Do you mean aluminum?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Beth,

The siding is white and the shadow of the Wood Tux is what’s left. It was on the siding about one hour before we started cleaning it. Full strength HD80 was used, I like to mix my HD 80 full strength in a 50 gallon barrel when I first get it.

The last time sealer got on the siding it was Wolman F&P. The color came right off the siding and less than a year later the color came right off the deck also! That is why we now use Wood Tux.

Shane,

I will try the Xylene and MEK this morning on the concrete. After the deck has cured I will hit the spot with hot water also instead just the hose, HD80 and scrub brush.

Thank you both for your help,

Sincerely,

Jesse R. Kirchhoff

Kirchhoff Handyman Solutions LLC

Advanced Power Washing and Restoration Services LLC

114 Forest Hill Ave. Jefferson City, Mo 65109

Local 573-635-2708 Toll Free 1-866-635-2708 Fax 573-634-8882

E-Mail jessekirchhoff@mchsi.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

The MEK worked great! You can only do one extremely small area at a time (about 4 square inches) then hit the area wit a wet rag. If it dwells to long it dries quickly if you hit it again it melts the siding.

This is only my first experience using this method but it worked well for me. I am keeping a list in the truck for all of the methods recommended. Every job has its own special challenges so who knows what will work next time?.

Thanks for your help

Sincerely,

Jesse R. Kirchhoff

Kirchhoff Handyman Solutions LLC

Advanced Power Washing and Restoration Services LLC

114 Forest Hill Ave. Jefferson City, Mo 65109

Local 573-635-2708 Toll Free 1-866-635-2708 Fax 573-634-8882

E-Mail jessekirchhoff@mchsi.com

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Cool Jesse i'm glad that worked for you :cool:

I've also learned to not make that mistake again or atleast try to be more aware of the drips b4 they dry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

When it comes to application, we dont skimp on the protective plastic.

We use 8' high pre taped plastic and tape it at the bottom with a continuous tape to hold it all on the siding.

We also will clamp 4mil plastic under the deck to protect the siding there too.

This minimizes the amount of clean up time we spend and the customers appreciate it too.

On average, the cost is about anywhere from 4.00-25.00 per job depending on if we are reusing the 4mil which may have only minimal sealer on it and is still viable for use to cover other areas.

Rod~

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I hear ya Rod $20 roll of plastic is a lot better then spending your time cleaning up stains. When i stain my arbors enclosed in plastic 1.5 mil works great.When in case i have a stone patios under it we're talking layers and even water at times.I've had the pin hole or 2 in the plastic so I've learned my lesson to put layers.My last job that was 1200 sqft i used 1-12'x200' roll and a 8' x 200'

I work mostly around hardy plank and brick not much vynal here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×