New Cedar Fence prep question

[dmclone 14]

I just recently had a 6ft cedar fence installed. I've researched all over about prepping before I apply the stain. A friend is recommending this:

Most home improvement stores will sell a deck wash/stripper. You want a sodium bicarbonate based cleaner which you can apply with bucket and brush or with a pump up sprayer.

The important part for new wood is the neutralization step. Most of the home improvement store products will say the neutralizer is to be used after using the sodium hydroxide based stripper, but it is good to use it with the cleaner too.

After cleaning you should wait 5 days to stain it may need less since fences dry faster than a deck does generally. If you have a moisture meter you can use this, the wood is ready when it is less than 20% water.

Does this sound correct? Any other tips? This wood is new and has never been stained. I want the stain to be able to soak into the wood.

[big mike 14]

Washing is unnecessary. What type of stain are you planning on using?

[dmclone 14]

Washing is unnecessary. What type of stain are you planning on using?

I was thinking of going with Olympic Maximum Semi Trans. Opinions?

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Washing is unnecessary. What type of stain are you planning on using?

TOTALLY DISAGREE.

You need to clean the fence before you seal it. Any lumber that is exposed for about 3 weeks or more, needs to be cleaned first. This includes the time you did not own it, but it was sitting in a stack in a yard, with moisture between the boards. You don't want mildew under your sealer, and you can't always see the beginnings of it.

Clean the wood with sodium percarbonate. Neutralize with a mild acid. Let dry. Then seal. Not a huge Olympic fan, but I do know folks who use it.

Beth

[big mike 14]

Clean the wood with sodium percarbonate. Neutralize with a mild acid. Let dry

Beth, do you really think that's the best route for a homeowner? The chances of ruining an expensive fence with chemicals and a pressure washer by a novice, isn't worth the risk IMO.

Use a stain with built-in mold/mildew inhibitors and keep the sprinklers off it, and the stain should be fine for several years. We use a penetrating oil stain (Ready Seal), but TWP, Armstrong-Clark, and others, have good products as well.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I notice people wincing at the mention of the word 'acid'.

Sherwin williams is the last known carrier of ABR X-180 deck and fence brightener which is an acid. The label gives plenty of information and precautionary statements to allow for a homeowner to follow and get good results.

The acid Beth is recommending is not just for neutralization but also to remove any tannin bleed stains around nails.

Just applying a product with an inhibitor in it is not going to get them the best result. The fence is brand new so it only requires a light washing to remove any superficial dirt and environmental contaminants. This is the best time to get the right results otherwise, anything that is present will be taken deeper into the wood substrate and create a stain that is difficult at best for a pro to remove without mechanical abrasion. This is a homeowner who wants to do it right, let's give this person the best info and help available for them to achieve the results they are looking for.

btw dmclone, the product mentioned in your quote is baking soda. Sodium Percarbonate (aka oxy-clean) will do.

Rod!~

Edited June 19, 2010 by Beth n Rod

[Mountain View 14]

I would clean and acid rinse the fence. I agree with others when they talk about surface contamination from milling and sitting outside in a yard somewhere before it's installed. For a home owner in this case, a store bought cleaner and brightener will work. If they don't have a pressure washer then a good quality hose nozzle with a fan pattern will do. LOW PRESSURE if they are using a pressure washing. You are only doing it to remove surface dirt.

[staudend 14]

Does anybody have a cheaper pre-carb than EFC - 38 for the volume that is fence washing? Jeesh, trying for a decent margin after buying Citralic/Oxalic, EFC- 38 or HD -80 when competing with the Yay hoo's out there is tough.

Also, I usually don't like bleach and have read all of the arguments, but for that volume on something that nobody walks on if you rinse well what could it hurt?

Bidding an 8 ft privacy fence, one side for a home-owners assocation that is 1,275 linear feet soon here in Columbia, MO. Any ideas on price would be great to wash (bleach or the good stuff) and stain with SW Deckscapes.

I usually stick to decks, so help me if you can!!

Thanks,

Nick Staudenmyer.

[mbartlett23 14]

dmclone, I disagree that washing is unnecessary. However, I would suggest not using any chemicals whatsoever if it is a fairly new fence. A good pressure washing should be sufficient with what you want to accomplish. This will remove any unsightly dirt or marks on the wood before stain is applied to the fence. Without pressure washing, that dirt will be stuck under the stain and won't look very good as time goes by. You can consider stain to be just like sealant.

Thank you,

Mike Bartlett- Houston Fence Builders

[Adrian 155]

If using a pressure washer care must be used not to get too much pressure too close to the wood as that will also chew up the wood. Bleach shouldn't lighten up already clean wood if used properly. just remember to rinse well and let it dry thoroughly before you apply the stain.

Please add your signature.

House Rule #1.

Welcome to TGS.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

ALL members....MUST have a signature. Many thanks in advance.

Beth

[jobalthough 9]

On 6/17/2010 at 8:44 PM, dmclone said:

I just recently had a 6ft cedar fence installed. I've researched all over about prepping before I apply the stain. A friend is recommending this:

Does this sound correct? Any other tips? This wood is new and has never been stained MillCreek Fence Company. I want the stain to be able to soak into the wood.

I am looking to replace my old cedar good neighbor fence after some winter ice damage. Anyone have a recommendation on a good Portland area installer? Thanks for any advice that you can provide.