Stripping, Sanding, Staining a deck

[freeheel 14]

I'm using a deck stripper from Home Depot with a pressure washer to strip a deck with multiple layers of paint and stain. I'm not sure what the chemical is but is it caustic as all get out. I'm getting about 75% of the previous finish removed.

1. Do i need to use a neutralizer and when do I use it?

2. Is that enough to move to sanding?

3. What type of sander would be best, orbital, drum, or square buff? It's PT pine.

4. Is it reasonable to think I can get this clean enough to use semi-transparent stain? I'm thinking about using cabot or sikkens.

I tore down the railing and will install a new one. Just working on the deck. Thanks in advance!

[Celeste 341]

Neutralize after you have finished with the stripping. You're going to need to let it dry before taking a sander to it - and to make sure you're happy with the amount of stuff you got off. What do you know about sanding? We use random orbitals but not with sand paper. And no one can determine what is reasonable without pictures :)

[freeheel 14]

Neutralize after you have finished with the stripping. You're going to need to let it dry before taking a sander to it - and to make sure you're happy with the amount of stuff you got off. What do you know about sanding? We use random orbitals but not with sand paper. And no one can determine what is reasonable without pictures :)

Got it. I wasn't sure if I should sand and then neutralize. I haven't done a project like this before but I'm pretty handy. I used lots of grinders and hand tools in a boat yard but not floor sanders. I've heard there are new random orbital sanders that don't use paper, they use some kind of mesh that is supposed to clog less? Once I've sanded I'll post pictures, shooting for Tuesday.

It stopped raining so here are a couple of current pics. The area in the second photo stills needs a second coat of stripper.

Edited June 23, 2011 by freeheel
Added pictures

[bigchaz 157]

Good idea tearing down the railings. I don't know what it looked like before but I'm surprised you were able to get that much paint off which just regular home depot stripper. Or are you using the actual gel type strippers that you paint on?

Can you tell what the base color is? Is it the red on first and then the white or was the white the original color? Reason I ask is you can sand it down (I would prefer to have more stripped if it were me) but you may not be able to get the white out of the knot holes and cracks between the boards. Will make it difficult to use a semi transparent if it doesn't all come out.

[RPetry 564]

Michael,

IMO, you have one tough sanding project ahead if you wish to stain with a semi-trans. oil. I'd suggest stripping again with a heavy duty stripper such as Eaco Chem's Stripper Cream or Back to Nature's BFS II.

[freeheel 14]

I'm having a hard time finding chemicals locally and don't want to wait to have them shipped. Going to give the whole deck one more coat with stuff from Home Depot. With respect to the layers I'm dealing with, 3 layers of grey paint on top of 2 or 3 layers of red stain (the last one being a solid stain I think).

Right now my biggest question is what type of sander to use? The local tool rental store recommends a drum sander. I'm a little concerned that will be too aggressive on pine. I'll see how this turns out before picking a stain. I'd really like to go semi transparent to avoid this kind of prep before re-application. Based on past experience I'll have peeling issues with solid stain.

Edited June 26, 2011 by freeheel

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

You will never get enough pigment out of that wood to make a semi-transparent to look good. That is an expert job for a professional, and a nightmare for a novice.

Beth

[plainpainter 217]

I love it when homeowners think they can do the job, LOL. That deck is one instance where I would buy ReadySeal stain and flush all the bare wood spots.

Then I would let it sit for a year and strip it again - and again flush all the wood with ReadySeal. It will take 10 years, but eventually it will look pretty good.

[TNRoofCleaner 16]

Don't listen to the naysayers. But you do need to change the approach. The strippers at the box stores are not near caustic enough. Most of them are sodium hypochlorite based and that does not strip the stain your pressure washer does. That deck is one that most professionals would run from because of the amount of time it will take to do the job. You will have to have the stripper shipped if you want the good stuff. Where ever you get the stripper, also get the neutralizer and this needs to be done while the wood is still wet from stripping.

When the stripper is applied, it does not work immediately and needs some dwell time. You may even have to mist the wood to keep it wet so the stripper continues to work and you get enough dwell time.

The vertical surfaces are going to be your tough ones. You may want to consider going with a 2 tone look. A darker semi transparent will work great with a white handrail.

[Rick2 42]

Most of them are sodium hypochlorite based

Do you mean sodium hydroxide?

[TNRoofCleaner 16]

No, on the labels the main ingredient in the box stores is sodium hypochlorite in their so called strippers and cleaners. Oh and it brightens too all in one step.

[freeheel 14]

No discouragement here. I'm not doing this job because I want to make money. I read the fine print for a couple of minutes on the stripper and did not see what the active ingredient is. I'm sure it is not as strong as some of the recommendations that have been made here but it is a pretty caustic gel. If I hadn't already started I would have order something better.

I've got about 85% bare wood now. The previous pics may be a little misleading because the deck was still wet from a rain shower that passed by and may have made the wood look darker than it really is. My plan is to hit it with a drum sander on Thursday unless I get better advice on the type of equipment to use. I'll start with something rough and then finish with 60 or 80 grit. I'll post pics after sanding.

Vertical surfaces have been tough. I'll probably go with the recommendation to paint them white and match with white railing.

Edited June 28, 2011 by freeheel

[freeheel 14]

Got most of the sanding done yesterday, I just need to trim around the house and a few other spots with a hand sander. Got it about 99.5% clean, used a drum sander with 36 grit then finished with 60. Took about 4 hours, wasn't fun but it certainly wasn't difficult. Here are a few pics

I'm starting to think about stain or paint and would appreciate any recommendations. Semi-clear, opaque, or paint? I was thinking a light brown/tan with white rails.

Edited July 1, 2011 by freeheel

[Celeste 341]

Well I certainly admire your persistence - you are definitely going to get this :) We would probably be inclined to (after ALL of that paint is sanded off) re-wash the deck and brighten to try and even up the wood a bit.

NO PAINT. You're going to want to use an oil based product - so you never have to go through what you are right now again! Are you planning to order a product or go to a paint or box store?

[freeheel 14]

Well I certainly admire your persistence - you are definitely going to get this :) We would probably be inclined to (after ALL of that paint is sanded off) re-wash the deck and brighten to try and even up the wood a bit.

NO PAINT. You're going to want to use an oil based product - so you never have to go through what you are right now again! Are you planning to order a product or go to a paint or box store?

I apprecite the advice! I will definatly re-wash. I assume the re-wash should be with a hose or really low pressure on a washer to prevent fuzz.

Don't want to do this again any time soon. My preference, I think, is a semi-clear oil stain. I'm open to recommendations on product. I'll order online or find a speciality paint store if necessary.

[Rick2 42]

Wow! Looking nice.

[bigchaz 157]

Great work on the sanding. Have you managed to get it sealed or stained yet? Be sure to post pictures when you have it finished and the rails up!

[freeheel 14]

Great work on the sanding. Have you managed to get it sealed or stained yet? Be sure to post pictures when you have it finished and the rails up!

Rails are up, see below. I've got 5 gal of ReadySeal, medium brown. I should have had enough dry days to do the application on the deck next week. I've got a big question... Obviously I'll be going for a two tone look with the white blasters, powder coated aluminium. I'm going to paint the vertical part of the steps (kickplate) white. I was thinking about painting the vertical portion of the rails white too but stain the handrail with ReadySeal. Do you think I'm asking for trouble putting paint on the new pressure treat? Would I be better off doing all of the rails with ReadySeal in the same medium brown? I've still got to order post caps. I'd greatly appreciate any advice/thoughts. I've come too far to hose this up now.

[James 624]

Do everything with RS first. If you want wait a month after using RS and its dry then paint over it. You will have A GOOD MOISTURE BARRIER to protect the paint from peeling.