John.Harper 14 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 Im going to order to 4k 8gpm pumps and was wondering the best way to mount both of them one on engine .. Im probably going to go diesel and do the work myself anyone have any tips ? Thanks John Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guy B 70 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 (edited) Why not buy 2 (8) gpm units and hook them together or just run them separately? Will this be a hot water set-up? Running 16 gpm you're going to have to move up in hose diameter, 1/2" or more. Weight & cost will be a factor. You can clean concrete just as effectively with 2500-3000 psi at those gpm's, why 4k? I would have to say you'd need to run 50-60 hp may be less with a diesel. I'd go with the Udor gkc pumps Should be a pretty cool project though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited November 10, 2011 by Guy B Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Russ Johnson 141 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 Get both a left hand and right hand drive and mount them on either side of the engine, heads out for easy service. Don't forget the belt guard. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
810F250 14 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 Im going to order to 4k 8gpm pumps and was wondering the best way to mount both of them one on engine .. Im probably going to go diesel and do the work myself anyone have any tips ?Thanks John Seems like my video have turned you into a "GPM" junky ...lol. I did what Guy mentioned, two 8gpm units (gasoline) and join them for vertical rinse or concrete rinsing only. never ran all of it in a surface cleaner, if I was to do that, it would be at least a 2 swivel surface cleaner, with 6 nozzles. I based my judgment on some nozzle science and experience here is some good reading Nozzle Trivia Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Adrian 155 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 There is a contractor in my area that has this type of setup on a flatbed run with a 4 cylinder subaru engine. It's actually really cool the way he has it set up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry 24 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 Go with a Japanese diesel, and do NOT raise those pumps on a platform.. keep them ON the floor, and for the same reason.. .. Dual "feed both" of those pump ! Got reclaim ?? BTW.. the reason for going 3500 or 4000 psi.. it delivers the 3000 psi you need for concrete in smaller hoses and longer distances. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
810F250 14 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 Go with a Japanese diesel,and do NOT raise those pumps on a platform.. keep them ON the floor, and for the same reason.. .. Dual "feed both" of those pump ! Got reclaim ?? BTW.. the reason for going 3500 or 4000 psi.. it delivers the 3000 psi you need for concrete in smaller hoses and longer distances. So true!! you can dial back 4000, if you needed to. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris Tharpe 40 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 Get both a left hand and right hand drive and mount them on either side of the engine, heads out for easy service. Don't forget the belt guard. Sounds like you have worked on a silver eagle 2 pump machine. Those units were not designed to be worked on at all. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Gamble 20 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 So true!! you can dial back 4000, if you needed to. Bringing back those talks from *** in 2008/2009 when others just could not accept this kind of talk. **3/8 hose vs 1/2 inch hose for those who use higher GPM pumps and / or to prevent heat and pressure lose in a hose that needs to have a longer run then 50 or 100 ft. Also by having a larger hose, you put less stress on your pump, thus your pumps will last longer IF MAINTANED AND NOT OVER REV. For example, our pumps have lasted over 17 years without an overhaul. On the same token, recently our newer pumps that are 7 years old was over rev because of the hydraulics was set to 3600 rpms. Human error. One of the two needs to be repaired. ** 170 degrees VS 350 Degrees for removing oil and stains in concrete. (Remember when you and I looked that up Nigel, Oil break down at 250, synthetic breaks down at 300 degrees, thus the reason for us to use 300+ degrees in our everyday 5 step process) ** And of course.... what type or how large of a filtration would be needed for a large parking structure. Its funny how these subjects just go round and round again. Oh, before I forget..... Hey Nigel, Dec is the month that we are all planning to meet for the gathering of the private informational and demonstration of the advance Filtration 801. This will be held in a Parking Garage Setting for the days specified previously. It will be held at the 1st location West of Texas as planed with no charge to attend expect for your personal expenses, air, hotel, food, etc... Some of us are going to stay at the Marriot Resort. The first round is on me!!! Better get those tickets ready.... Call me to discuss. The trailers will be ready by this time. Got to go, have 5 more garages to do and not enough time to do them. I know I am going to leave money on the table... I HATE THAT. Hopefully I can push two of them into January. I hope I spelled or typed everythin g correctly.. Everyone knows my controls in that area still are not turned on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Gamble 20 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 Go with a Japanese diesel,Got reclaim ?? BTW.. the reason for going 3500 or 4000 psi.. it delivers the 3000 psi you need for concrete in smaller hoses and longer distances. Just one word... Kubota..... Threads already posted on these engines back in 2009. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Gamble 20 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 Go with a Japanese diesel. We have been using Kubota Japanese Diesel's since 1989. Our first engine was the D950. Our latest engine is computer controlled with the Kubota 3.8 liter. I believe it is Kubota's biggest engine. In 2013 is our next scheduled build. This build may require something a bit more, so we are looking at Cummins for their QSB45 series found here at http://www.cumminspowerproducts.com/PowerUnits/Diesel/T3/QSB45/QSB4.5-T3Brochure.pdf Though this build is still on the drawing boards and some aspects are being checked by computer for performance and reliability issues, it may have a, or perhaps some, vacuums on this rig... hint. This build, as with the rest of our units, will be solely designed for large cleanings such as parking Garage Cleaning, parking garage structures and or Parking Deck Cleaning...... Jim Gamble Parking Garage Cleaning Specialist for 23 years We use Specialized Equipment and Filtration for Parking Structure, Parking Garage and Parking Deck Cleaning Our equipment is NOT for sale Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry 24 Report post Posted November 10, 2011 (edited) With Kubota, you just have to be careful with the smaller versions.. they come with TINY-little charging systems.. If you have enough HP to run a nice pump, you'll want to run a nice heater. Eh? ...and ALWAYS get the full control panel with auto-shutdowns.. temp limit, low oil, etc. :{) Edited November 11, 2011 by Jerry sp. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John.Harper 14 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 yea 810f250 i am officially a junky i want two separate large volume rigs with heat on the same trailer i have about 600 feet of hose right now and i think 200 of it is 1/2 inch so that should be enough to get me started but i may not be able to get a diesel now i thought my dad had a few laying around at his shop but he gave one away and the rest are 6 cylinder and up but he does have a few 3 cylinder kubota water cooled gas engines that have been sitting and are mine to use if i can clean them up i hopefully one of those can handle two pumps thanks jim for your post on temperatures that different oils break down at i didn't know that i have another setup running about 10gpm now after i joined them is there any kind of industrial burner or hot water heater that you can retrofit and make work to heat close to 25 gpm i don't want to have to run like 3 burners im not going to have enough trailer space because im going to have my roofwash polytank and pump on their too Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John.Harper 14 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 you don't think its necessary to go up to 5 thousand? i don't but if im going to drop some money its only an extra 200 to get the same put at 5k with 7gpm and i've bought a lot of stuff before and realized that it was obsolete after the fact just don't want to do that again .. i know it would be a fortune to get enough 1/2 house that would handle 5k Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jerry 24 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 beefier version pump is good, but.. make sure it still has 3/4" inlets, so you aren't down with rat-bites in yer seals from cavitation. O.K. I am a broken record, but newbie needs to know. Right ? ..EVERYthing wears out faster at that pressure too.. I have some VERY reliable systems out there on 5kpsi, but I still have to say, plan on an extra $500. in repair costs per year, or.. USE the extra pressure to do "more amazing" stuff that makes more amazing money. ..and leverage the difference into your marketing. so.. I guess.. Pick a perspentive that works for you, and don't blame the equipment for failure. oh.. and instant-capture is your best friend. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
810F250 14 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 Jerry/John it looks like those 5000psi pumps are better pressure feed. Look at AR's competitor General pump equivailent, same half inch inlet , but notice the inlet requirements,...... minimum inlet pressure 30psi (these pump may not produce enough vacuum to be suction feed properly for "long term low cost" http://generalpump.com/pdfs/TSP1619-pump.pdf John to heat 25gpm to 200F,.... you talking major BTU's form one boiler, even more than Jim Gamble's combined 2.2 Million Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John.Harper 14 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 i would love to buy some of your stuff jerry but this past season was my first and i did very well but im doing this project on a very low budget the only things that are going to be bought new are the pumps the rest is going to be pieced together .. i would love to have insta-capture but thats probably going to be a next year thing unless i can find a way to retro-fit my existing surface cleaners with one your systems ..but i know that you guys put out quality stuff and i know where to go and i am looking for a good heater send me an email to show me what you have with some pricing service@delawareroofwash.com Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
810F250 14 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 That would be the most expensive part of the setup, if you are going for heating 25gpm to a 140F rise, you would need at least 2 heaters 3/4" coil. BTU's I will have to calculate Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John.Harper 14 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 yea probably gonna end up going with the 4K then Nigel I need to talk with my dad and see if i can find some type of industrial burner i guess i really only need to heat 14gpm my other rig is kind of heated already i can tell this is going to be a major hang up thanks for the interest and help Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John.Harper 14 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 i really don't know a whole lot about these heaters i've seen some and they're rated a certain gpm is that the maximum gpm you can run through it and still achieve the desired temperature rise that they are rated for or is that literally all your gonna get through it and you'll hurt it if you go any higher or both? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
810F250 14 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 i really don't know a whole lot about these heaters i've seen some and they're rated a certain gpm is that the maximum gpm you can run through it and still achieve the desired temperature rise that they are rated for or is that literally all your gonna get through it and you'll hurt it if you go any higher or both? Kind of both, but more so on the heat rise, but it is important not to over pressurize, was running the numbers at 25gpm and 140 rise look like you are right at 2.2 million Btu's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John.Harper 14 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 thats quite a large number .. its gonna suck when i end up with a big ass rig and no hot water haha just like tomorrow have to be on the road by 6:30 $%#%#^!! time flies when ur having fun Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
810F250 14 Report post Posted November 11, 2011 thats quite a large number .. its gonna suck when i end up with a big ass rig and no hot water haha just like tomorrow have to be on the road by 6:30 $%#%#^!! time flies when ur having fun I know we both would have preferred that number in cash, lol Coil design plays an important part of that btu # Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
John.Harper 14 Report post Posted November 12, 2011 got my motor just now had an old lincoln welder laying around with a bad generator on it it has a 3 cylinder Perkins diesel on it thats rated for 48 horsepower at 2500 rpm should hopefully do the trick those kubota motors i was looking at only had about 25 horsepower yea im gonna have to sink my head deep into some books to figure out how to get this thing HOT if i plan on doing it without taking out a mortgage Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
810F250 14 Report post Posted November 12, 2011 engine exhaust preheater, and two good boilers. Hope you were able to get up on time this morning. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
