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Beth n Rod

Strippers! Which ones are making you money?

Stripper Products  

8 members have voted

  1. 1. Which stripper do you find works best?

    • Stripper Cream
      1
    • Powersolve
      0
    • Wolman Deck stripper
      0
    • Defy Exterior Stain Stripper
      0
    • Restore-A-Deck stripper
      0
    • HD-80 Heavy Duty stripper
      5
    • StripIt!
      0
    • Smart Strip
      0
    • Jomax Stain and Finish Deck Stripper
      0
    • Peel Away Deck Stripper
      0
    • DWR Deck and Wood Stripper
      0
    • Other: please post below
      4


Question

With the fluctuation of new stain products on the market and their compositions

being that of hybrid and acrylic blends, they pose a challenge to all wood restoration

companies who have to either maintain them or remove them.

 

What's even more perturbing is the fact many manufacturers don't have anything that

can remove their own let alone anyone else's product once installed. We have customers

who change their minds after an installation because the color isn't what they thought it

would be and the representations on the can or in photos doesn't match the end result.

 

So....Whats working for you?

What's not?

 

There are many versions of strippers out there that are in liquid form, powder form or gel.

Indicate in the poll which you use or just post here what, when and why.

 

For those who are newer or like I am putting out feelers to see if anything new has hit

the market, I will post some links for reviews that you can look into as you like.

 

Rod

 

http://www.deckstainhelp.com/category/deck-product-reviews/deck-stain-stripper-reviews/

 

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I have given my vote on the ones we use but also need to add that there is a booster

needed at times to deal with acrylics.

 

HD-80 + 633ADD makes a great combination for stripping many acrylics and even

successfully used it to strip Sikkens (DEK, Cetol 2,3+, SRD, Log & Siding).

 

Rod

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Voted Stripper Cream for those nasty verticals. A bit pricey and laborious to apply, but does work well. Also voted HD-80, although we have not used that product in about

11 years. ACR Products supplies a very similar product, ACR 760, which is similar and works well. For those really snotty finish removals, some ACR ADD-633 along with a surfactant,

a bit of time keeping it moist, works well.

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I'm just curious as to why others are still buying stripper from manufacturers at a substantially higher price than making your own? I used to use F-18 and HD-80 but the past few years decided to make my own and have gotten the same results. I've stripped Behr (silicone), Sherwin williams Woodscapes, fresh TWP 100 series, Sansin Dec etc. without adding any booster. Granted I know a straight acrylic would need a water based solvent added to strip it successfully

Edited by YVPW

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I mostly cook up what I need on a job by job basis.

Depending on what I need to peel.

Light stuff -- cascade and oxyclean, yea, basic wash, more concentrated.

Up to mighty, Glycol enhanced NaOH, KOH blend, a bit of purple for wetting, heated up and thickened with corn starch.

That will peel anything.

BUT

BUT

These days, I can do 9 of 10 with wash only as I am just doing new work or my own re-dos.

The great advantage of 18 years of service.

 

However, once upon a time I really liked the Bio-wash stuff ( later Napier) now gone.

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I'm just curious as to why others are still buying stripper from manufacturers at a substantially higher price than making your own? I used to use F-18 and HD-80 but the past few years decided to make my own and have gotten the same results. I've stripped Behr (silicone), Sherwin williams Woodscapes, fresh TWP 100 series, Sansin Dec etc. without adding any booster. Granted I know a straight acrylic would need a water based solvent added to strip it successfully

 

I can't answer for others, but for us it is for 2 reasons.

In the U.S., making your own makes you the manufacturer and without proper D.O.T. licensing and HAZMAT regulations in place, it becomes a liability situation.

Other than that, it is for the convenience of being able to give that headache to someone else. I enjoy being able to pass the scales knowing I am not

in violation doing so.

The products we purchase and use also support the businesses that sell them and I believe in that.

 

Rod

 

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Thanks for sharing Rod. I understand each individual has different situations and that when sending a crew out to do the jobs you have more liability with them not knowing as much about chemicals as you. I mix my supplies at the job and don't transport mixed ingredients. By buying raw ingredients I also support my local business from whom I purchase several different chemicals.

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We have employees & every cleaning solutions we use we have SDS sheets for because of safety & liability reasons.

At the PWRA convention in DC we took that class Jeremy Keifer taught about why you need SDS(Formerly known as MSDS)sheets & the fines that were levied towards his company because he didn't have SDS sheets on everything.

Safety must come first especially when it comes to employees.

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Not sure about the thread question..........my Wife won't let me have a Stripper.....and I'm too afraid to ask......Lol!

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On 2/18/2016 at 7:22 AM, Beth n Rod said:

I have given my vote on the ones we use but also need to add that there is a booster

needed at times to deal with acrylics.

 

HD-80 + 633ADD makes a great combination for stripping many acrylics and even

successfully used it to strip Sikkens (DEK, Cetol 2,3+, SRD, Log & Siding).

 

Rod

Hey Rod,

Would you say this is still your go to stripper?

What booster are you adding for acrylics? Where do you source the 633ADD? 

Thanks,

Collin 

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Hello Collin,

Yes, we still use R.A.D. and 633ADD for stripping acrylics and other tough oils like Sikkens suite of products (now called Proluxe by PPG Paints) .
Our source for 633ADD is ACR Products. Tell them Rod & Beth from See Dirt Run! sent you.
R.A.D. (Restore A Deck) is available from (click the link). The main page this lands you on is the consumer page. You need to create an account to get to the contractor section. Click the Log In link at the top and set up your account.
I get sent samples from so many other providers but we always seem to gravitate back to R.A.D. as a tailorable strength product that can clean at lower concentrations and more as you increase the strength of it and dwell time. It goes a long way and we use as little as an ounce per gallon up to 4-6 oz/gal for stripping various coatings.

Hope this helps

Rod & Beth
 

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16 hours ago, Beth n Rod said:

Hello Collin,

Yes, we still use R.A.D. and 633ADD for stripping acrylics and other tough oils like Sikkens suite of products (now called Proluxe by PPG Paints) .
Our source for 633ADD is ACR Products. Tell them Rod & Beth from See Dirt Run! sent you.
R.A.D. (Restore A Deck) is available from (click the link). The main page this lands you on is the consumer page. You need to create an account to get to the contractor section. Click the Log In link at the top and set up your account.
I get sent samples from so many other providers but we always seem to gravitate back to R.A.D. as a tailorable strength product that can clean at lower concentrations and more as you increase the strength of it and dwell time. It goes a long way and we use as little as an ounce per gallon up to 4-6 oz/gal for stripping various coatings.

Hope this helps

Rod & Beth
 

Rod & Beth,

Thanks for the quick response! Still pretty new at this stuff.  So you are recommending the R.A.D. product over the WD-80?  Are there any tricks to cut down on wood furring?  Especially on log sided homes? 

Thanks,

Collin 

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19 hours ago, Collin said:

Rod & Beth,

Thanks for the quick response! Still pretty new at this stuff.  So you are recommending the R.A.D. product over the WD-80?  Are there any tricks to cut down on wood furring?  Especially on log sided homes? 

Thanks,

Collin 

We used to use HD-80 but found that the formula was weakened and no longer as strong as it used to be.

Avoiding fuzzing is like trying to avoid UV degradation. It is going to be a thing. Best option is to offer the buffing option to your clients as an aesthetic option.
The fuzzing doesn't affect the performance of the product applied over it, but will turn out less even and in some cases, splotchy.

Rod & Beth

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On 2/21/2016 at 10:41 AM, blizzy said:

I mostly cook up what I need on a job by job basis.

Depending on what I need to peel.

Light stuff -- cascade and oxyclean, yea, basic wash, more concentrated.

Up to mighty, Glycol enhanced NaOH, KOH blend, a bit of purple for wetting, heated up and thickened with corn starch.

That will peel anything.

BUT

BUT

These days, I can do 9 of 10 with wash only as I am just doing new work or my own re-dos.

The great advantage of 18 years of service.

 

However, once upon a time I really liked the Bio-wash stuff Alight Motion Shake Effects ( later Napier) now gone.

Great

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