House Washing Techniques

[bfenne 14]

Hello All,

I have been more of a lurker than a contributer. Spring is just around the corner and I wanted to piece some things together. While I have been reading here I have found many points on house washing but they come from many, many power washers. I was wondering if anyone would like to post there house washing procedure/rules of thumb that apply the majority of the time? Do you start at the top, the bottom ect,ect... I thought it would be neat to compare different complete methods to achieve the same clean reults from powerwashers across the country or abroad? If you feel like elaborting on what and how you use your chemicals during the process that would give everyone some food for thought as well. Thanks to all who have and who will contribute to this post but more importantly this forum.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Bfenne,

Of all the things you can do to a house, the most important one to remember is rinsing.

Applying your chems from the bottom up helps to avoid streaking.

Rinsing is from the top-down...several times, as in 3-4 times...and...once more just for good measure. :)

Dwell time is a factor to consider and avoiding letting the chems dry on the siding and windows is a major note.

As for technique, we do ours under low pressure. The reason for this is because of the following:

1. The weep holes on the underside of the siding is designed for allowing condensation to escape. They are too small to allow large amounts of water the may be introduced by high pressure application to drain. Therefore, the resulting problem is water cascading down the backside of the siding inside where it can soak into the insulation, particle board, etc. later. This leads to mold and mildew problems for the homeowner. Low pressure minimizes the amount of water introduced behind the siding and gives you the ability to avoid the next scenario.
   
2. Loose siding. The siding over the years of hot and cold can pop its channels and become an easy fly away when high pressure water and high air flow generated by the spray causes it to loosen and fly away causing a bent, buckle or gap in the siding. When using low pressure, you can effectively clean using the weight of the water to knock it off the surface which is easy if you are using a cleaner with a good surfactant.
   
3. Windows get cleaner in this method. Although still requiring a squeegee avoid spotting, the screens, frames and sills benefit from the process. Low pressure washing does not force anywhere near as much water under the windows and SGD (sliding glass doors)in this method and in the event the homeowner is not home during the process, they do not come home to a house with wet carpets, walls and drapes.
   
4. While gutters are an alacarte service for us, they can be cleaned the same way without forcing water up under the many types of shingles and soffits or facia.
   

Much more can be discussed on this and added to by others...so I will step aside and let others contribute here as well.

Rod~

[VanDiesel99 14]

Start in an inconspicuous spot, that way if you run into a problem you can fix it before it becomes noticeable.

[CCPC 26]

do a thourgh inspection of the exterior walls, windows, exterior outlets, etc. Keep your eye out for red flags such as: no cover on exterior porch outlet or any other exposed electrical device, open windows, cracked glass on windows (you don't want to be blamed for somthing you didn't do). When using gutter cleaners, be very carful not to get the cleaner on the siding, stucco, or any painted finish because if it dwells there for more than minute and can, and will, alter the color. There's rarely a need to use high pressure on home exteriors. I use mild pressure myself, just enough to speed up the rinse process. When cleaning around doors that have brass handles and locks always rinse them immediatley and very thourghly to prevent corrision. Of course, always use low pressure when rinsing double paned windows to avoid blowing the seals out.

[Degraffreed 21]

Hello to all.

Beth, What do you consider "Low Pressure"?.I hear of contractor on the board using low pressure.

I normally use about 1500 psi. I do vary the distance to the surface when I am cleaning or rinsing windows. Do not want to break them even with 1500psi.

DeGraffreed

[svp07 14]

I consider "low" to be at about 500 psi, leaving the pump. That is what I get from my X-jet and just it during the whole washing process of a basic house; flow rate at about 4.5 gpm. The water is probably hitting the house at a lower pressure becasue I am really never up close to it with the nozzle.

As for another tip...I apply my gutter cleaner and then apply my house wash right after. Gutter dwell time is about 2 minutes and them the application of my wash dilutes the gutter cleaner. After the house wash is applied I scrub/aggitate the gutters with a truck brush on an extention pole. By this time house wash has dwelled long enough and everything get rinsed.

[Degraffreed 21]

Thanks, SPV

Degraffreed

[RyanH 14]

Also, check to see that the overlap direction of vinyl siding is all the same (i.e, no piece of vinyl has both ends covered by adjacent pieces). Not only will paying attention to this prevent you from blowing water behind the siding, but pointing it out to the customer will give them a higher perception of your attentiveness to their property and experience as a contractor. That has a significant impact on reducing the "sticker shock" when you quote your price if you charge high. Be sure to point out as many problems and potentials for cleaning as possible if they are present when you do your walk through...the more things you see that they never noticed will definitely help you in your quote.

[Aplus 525]

I usually wash houses at about 800-900 psi.

I have reasoned that in order to wash at a lower psi, I would have to increase the strength of my house wash mix. The stronger the soap, the more opportunities for bad things to happen.....kill plants, streak windows, etc. It's give and take somewhat on the amount of pressure. And also, the water hardness, and type of soil on a house plays a role in how you approach it.

So I will typically vary nozzles between #8 & #11 depending on the particular condition.

[Rfitz 14]

We almost always 90% of the time X-jet, you will always get much better results, soaping from bottom up rinsing top down, we average approx. 1 hour for an average 2500 sq ft house, usually more like 45 minutes, I use a 6 GPM machine to apply soap and my 8 GPM for rinsing with a 0070 tip, it cuts rinsing time by 50-70%, one guy is soaping 2 sides then the other comes behind him and rinses with the monster 8 GPM, on average 6-8 houses a day is pretty easyily done if they arent too far away from each other, now if we add gutter scrubbing in with the house wash which in molst cases is the same price as the house wash, you can add another 40-50 minutes to the whole process, but on average a 2500 sq ft home along with gutter scrubbing/washing averages around $450 to $650 for approx 1.5 to 2 hours of work...

Hope this helps...

[bfenne 14]

Thanks for the replys everyone. Some great info there. I notice some constants among contractors such as do a pre wash inspection for potential problems, use low pressure below 1000psi, soap up rinse down and rerinse,

Are there any other constants?

One area of difference I notice is the nozzel choice, some use x-jet and others use various nozzles. Are ther signs during the pre wash inspection that would lead you to use one nozzle or the another?

Also, Curious about the dwell time, is that product specific or is there a rule of thumb used that is good for most chems?

I see there is a problem with window etching. Is that from regular house wash or the gutter wash? What in the chems is cuasing this to happen? Are there chems that don't do this?

If you are washing the gutters how should you incorporate that into the rest of the house wash? What technique do you use?

Thanks again to everyone.

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

degraffeed,

SPV basically answered the question you posed for me...

I use a flex wand to get even lower though...it throws a bead of water up about 40' and does quite well for pumping 8gpm onto a siding for rinsing...at around 300-500psi

Rod~

[CCPC 26]

If you are washing the gutters how should you incorporate that into the rest of the house wash? What technique do you use?

I always include the exterior of the gutters as part of the house wash and price accordingly. As far as the process of applying the chem, I always use my M-5 to apply chem to houses. I apply my house wash to a given area (usually a side at a time) then I brush on my gutter cleaner (I've found that brushing it on is easier and more cost effective) then rinse the gutters, then rinse the rest of that side of the house, and lastly, I rinse the windows on that side. Oh yeah, I'm also rinsing the plants during this process.

[Degraffreed 21]

Thanks CCP and others that post.

DeGraffreed

[tropical wave 22]

For the folks using the M-5, if your washing vinyl, wood or brick houses, do you also rinse with the M-5 or do you change out to a 25 or 40 nozzle? Or do you just use the x-jet for the really high stuff and gutters then switch out to a nozzle for the lower areas...???

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

I use the M-5 for virtually everything in house washing. Brick, vinyl, aluminum...etc.

Rod~

[CCPC 26]

For the folks using the M-5, if your washing vinyl, wood or brick houses, do you also rinse with the M-5 or do you change out to a 25 or 40 nozzle? Or do you just use the x-jet for the really high stuff and gutters then switch out to a nozzle for the lower areas...???

I always use it to apply the chems to houses, but usually don't use it for rinsing. I usually use a 9510 tip to rinse.

[Lou Beach 14]

I always include the exterior of the gutters as part of the house wash and price accordingly. As far as the process of applying the chem, I always use my M-5 to apply chem to houses. I apply my house wash to a given area (usually a side at a time) then I brush on my gutter cleaner

Question on this aspect concerning the gutters. First, you clean only the exterior of the gutter is that correct, the side that the foot traffic see's?

Second, do you use a different chem for the gutter then what you are using for the house?

Third, if you are doing a two story house, how do you "brush" on the chem's for the gutters?

(I've found that brushing it on is easier and more cost effective) then rinse the gutters, then rinse the rest of that side of the house, and lastly, I rinse the windows on that side. Oh yeah, I'm also rinsing the plants during this process.

[CCPC 26]

Question on this aspect concerning the gutters. First, you clean only the exterior of the gutter is that correct, the side that the foot traffic see's?

Precisely. Interior is extra.

Second, do you use a different chem for the gutter then what you are using for the house?

Yes. They make many chems that are specific for cleaning gutters. Usually the regular house wash mix will not be sufficient.

Third, if you are doing a two story house, how do you "brush" on the chem's for the gutters?

Extension poles and ladders.

[Aplus 525]

I use an xjet to apply the detergent, and usually a #9 (4009) for rinsing. A brush on an extension pole works well for scrubbing gutters.

The only time I use a ladder is when there is an attached garage, and I ca't get the right angle from the ground to get that side of the house. I'll go up on the garage to make it easier to do that side. Other wise, the ladder stays in the trailer.

I always carry a ladder when doing house washes, because you never know if a piece of siding will blow off, and when it does, it seems to always be at the top.

[Celeste 341]

If we run into really nasty gutters that are going to require brushing, we put the gutter cleaner into a spray bottle, spray the brush itself and apply as we brush. Our brush is waterfed so we can continue brushing as we rinse as well. This also seems to control how much gutter cleaner goes where it's supposed to :)

Celeste

[Aplus 525]

I prefer to not use mega-long extension poles. My favorites are a 9' & a 12' Extendawand, with an Xjet. I have a 24' but almost never use it. Eventually I will get an 18' and do away with the longer one.

This house was pretty high, and the 12' with an xjet did just fine. We wash this one twice a year, because it is off a gravel road that creates a ton of dust which really clings to the white vinyl.

[bfenne 14]

Thank you all for the replys. Very informative. Couple of questions though.

What is the deal with gutter cleaning chems., everyone seems very concerned with them? What techniques should be used when applying these chems.?

Is the many advatages between a 9' and 12' extendawand? They seem so close in size do you really need both?

If you are using low pressure 500-800 psi how common is it to blow siding off?

[Lou Beach 14]

another question about the gutter cleaning

What product (chem) is used or preferred when cleaning gutters?

Thanks

[Jack Kramer 15]

Bfenne,

I wash houses with an 18’ or 24’ extend-a-wand. First I wet the house from the bottom up using an xjet. After wetting the house I apply the soap using the xjet again. At this point another cleaner is applied by brush on an extended poll to clean the gutters. The cleaner for the gutters is much stronger and can do damage if left on to long. As soon as the gutters are brushed there are cleaned with a #12 (4012 approx 700psi) nozzle. This same nozzle is then used to clean and rinse the house. With 2 people we usually repeat this for each side of the house.

Just like Tony C. I only use ladders for the garage side if needed.

I live in Morris county NJ, which is not that far from Easton. If you would like to see a house wash is done or need to talk to somebody feel free to call me.

Jack Kramer

A Brilliant Solution LLC

973 927 4449

[RyanH 14]

another question about the gutter cleaning

What product (chem) is used or preferred when cleaning gutters?

Thanks

I've done some observing over the past year or so with gutters. Around here, gutters are severely undersized for houses...they put 4" gutters on with the downspouts spaced 20 - 50' apart and on a roof with >45 degree pitch. The water runs off the roof so fast that it does not have time to leave the gutter through the downspout and spills over the edge. On a new roof, it carries the oils from the roof with it and stains the gutters. Others have said it in the past, and my own experience has shown it to be true: you need a degreaser to clean the gutter streaks. There is more than dirt and algae on the outside. I like to use a purple degreaser cleaner from a local auto store and it works very well. I spray in 10 - 15' increments, let it dwell for about 30 seconds and spray off. 90% of the time no scrubbing is required for me. I apply it with my pump rather than Xjetting it on...I need full concentration for it to work in a good amount of time without ruining the paint.