PressurePros 248 Report post Posted May 20, 2005 Finally finished this whopper project. Customer had applied former finish so heavy it formed a thick coating which was not easy to strip. This customer opted for a hand rubbed finish so this entire deck was stained by rag! Some closeups first: The original color is Mahogany Flame Stripped and dried Australian Oil - Honey Teak Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted May 20, 2005 This is what happen when homeowners over apply a penetrating oil Stripped This is the part that wraps around the wall. The people moved their chairs back onto this part of the deck before it was fully cured and scratched the surface. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted May 20, 2005 Full view Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted May 20, 2005 The side that wraps around the house Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 JFife 14 Report post Posted May 20, 2005 That is gorgeous!! You gotta love this biz, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Celeste 341 Report post Posted May 20, 2005 What a beautiful job! That's one of those portfolio pics that sells for years :) Celeste Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted May 20, 2005 Ken, B-E-A-U-T-I-F-U-L! Keep 'em coming! Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted May 21, 2005 Thanks! I have about five more that size waiting to be sealed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 tropical wave 22 Report post Posted May 21, 2005 thats looks gorgeous......the owner must have been in awe !!!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 newlook 265 Report post Posted May 22, 2005 Great Job....nice house! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 M Pearlstein 14 Report post Posted May 22, 2005 sweet looking job Ken and I agree with Celeste that is cover of brochure material. How much longer do you figure it took to hand/rag stain versus your normal method? Not sure is you use a pump up, roller or airless regularly. Also, if you factor in material - and I am assuming hand staining has less waste - what was the over all delta on the project to do it this way? Just trying to learn and I think for my first few deck I am hand rubbing the floors or using a shur-line stain pad and using a spray gun (hand held) and a brish for the rails. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted May 22, 2005 sweet looking job Ken and I agree with Celeste that is cover of brochure material. How much longer do you figure it took to hand/rag stain versus your normal method? Not sure is you use a pump up, roller or airless regularly. Also, if you factor in material - and I am assuming hand staining has less waste - what was the over all delta on the project to do it this way? Just trying to learn and I think for my first few deck I am hand rubbing the floors or using a shur-line stain pad and using a spray gun (hand held) and a brish for the rails. The whole thing ran a little over projected time at almost 40 hours. If you are going to hand rub anything it should be the rails IMO. Cut's your prep time way down and avoids you having to approach spindles from ten different spray angles. On the floor, you have to worry about hitting between the boards. With a rag this is very difficult. I have found some thick nap lambswool pads at Ace that have worked well with floors. It gets down between the boards nicely. On a standard job, I use an HVLP spray gun attached to my compressor. It's slower than an airless but you use less material and you get less overspray. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 M Pearlstein 14 Report post Posted May 22, 2005 Ken- Thanks since I was wondering why you only hear about airless and not air-paint guns? i have a compressor already - albeit a small one - but may try that route in the future if I dont go with a deckster. I like the latter's versatility especiially with the hurricane brush. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Brian Keating 14 Report post Posted May 22, 2005 Beautiful job! What kind of time was put into this project. I'm sure it was a nice payday. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted May 24, 2005 Beautiful job! What kind of time was put into this project. I'm sure it was a nice payday. Thanks, Brian. 40 hours went into this one. I made my rate. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted May 24, 2005 Nice work ken- how did you set-up future Maint ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted May 24, 2005 Thanks James...Fall, very mild percarb cleaning $500. Spring- more aggressive percarb cleaning with a recoat on the horizontals $1200. I have them in my schedule for October 17th and April 3rd, 2006. I always try to schedule mainetence right when I get the check. Hardwoods definitely require more upkeep and recoat so in Spring 2007 I'll recoat the whole thing then it should be good for awhile. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted May 25, 2005 Ken try bleach it's easier on the Timber crap and very fast- I cleaned a ^600 sqft deck in 30 min the other day Mahog w/Aussy Sap fluid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 reed 500 Report post Posted May 25, 2005 Great result Ken. The Aussie oil definitely has a place for wood like that. reed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted May 25, 2005 With the assuy stuff if you do a mild pre-carb and don't get the mildew off it becomes part of the finish . Then you have to strip again. This is why bleach is more affective for maint. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Beth n Rod 1,279 Report post Posted May 25, 2005 You could say the same thing with any cleaner. If you don't mix it right and get all the mildew, this is the case with any cleaner. But if done correctly, it's not an issue at all, and is gentler on the wood's lignin. A percarbonate will do the job just as well used properly. Beth Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 PressurePros 248 Report post Posted May 25, 2005 Ken try bleach it's easier on the Timber crap and very fast- I cleaned a ^600 sqft deck in 30 min the other day Mahog w/Aussy Sap fluid. So let me guess, you're not a big fan of Aussie Oil? LOL. I am not a fan of using bleach, but that's just because of the rhetoric forced down everyone's throat about bleach being bad for wood. I would not use it on untreated wood, but if a deck is sealed, I think using it in proper dilution would not be a bad thing. James, how much 12% per gal for a deck clean do you use and what type of surfactant? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 James 624 Report post Posted May 26, 2005 I've just seen to many mis -applications of product and the public has been mis-lead about exoctic woods. bleach- 1 gallon , water 2 gallons, squirt of dawn or any shampoo. Or sometimes I'll X-jet a deck 2 gallons of bleach 2 gallons of water. dampen wood first. Let it dwell start with 3 minutes and work your way up to fifteen always misting. watch deck turn brand new.......... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
0 Aplus 525 Report post Posted May 26, 2005 Very nice indeed! Those upper levels always add a degree of complications. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Finally finished this whopper project. Customer had applied former finish so heavy it formed a thick coating which was not easy to strip.
This customer opted for a hand rubbed finish so this entire deck was stained by rag!
Some closeups first:
The original color is Mahogany Flame
Stripped and dried
Australian Oil - Honey Teak
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