Help - Halfway through stripping latex with problems

[M Pearlstein 14]

I feel like such a whiner since all my posts are request for help. I realize that is a big part of what this board is for but I'll make a point to add some value back when I can. In the meantime....

Started stripping this deck yesterday that I thought had only 2 coats of latex on it. I was way wrong since it has 4 + a primer from what I can tell. I know I should have ton a test patch before bidding but I put together a nice package for these people so in the overall job I have room to make this work. The question is what do I do now?

Should I sand the rest with a belt sander? Or apply HD-80 onthe unstripped areas and try again? I have a feeling I will need to doa bunch of defurring anyway but I would like to minimize the sanding to a quick pass if I could.

I also still have the rails to strip but those are being done in white again so I am not as concerned about getting it all off.

Thanks (again) :)

[Dale 16]

Hey!!..looks like fun.

I assume you're recoating with a solid? If thats the case you don't have to get it all off. If the ashesion is sound on the remaining stain you could just feather the edges apply a good oil deck primer like Cabots Problem Solver Deck primer and then 2 top-coats. If you're thinking of cleaning this to the point of being able to use a semi ....good luck.

[PressurePros 248]

I agree with Dale on this one. At the very least you are going to need to boost the alkalinity of the HD-80 to eyebrow singeing strength and sand a bunch.

[RPetry 564]

Mark,

As far as I know, sodium hydroxide strippers are not all that great in stripping latex or acrylics. They seem to partially work in failed areas where the stripper can get to the wood or lower layers to help break the bond but I think it may be hard to totally remove many layers of latex with only sodium hydroxide.

Theres a stripper made by Biowash called Stripex-L. I see you are also in NJ and I know that Sipersteins use to carry it. Or you could try some local paint stores. Beware, the stuff is expensive and will only remove one layer of latex at a time. Have not used it in a long time but remember that it worked pretty well on latex. Be careful if buying as there's another Biowash product called Stripex which is not formulated for latex.

[PressurePros 248]

Mark, if you want to try the Stripex-L gimme a call. The place where I buy some of my chemicals and equipment made me an offer of 50% of their inventory. They are discontinuing it. Let me know via pm or call so I can make sure it was the Stripex-L version.

[M Pearlstein 14]

Thanks everyone and Ken I may take you up on that. I am going to try and spot apply HD-80 a little hotter and longer dwell tommorow and see if I can get it come off. I know it eats through it somewhat since it got a layer in most spots except the boards that get total shade against the house. I still may want to think about that stripper since I see lots of latex unfortunately.

That actually isnt such a bad thing since a good part of my sales approach is educating the customer and that is usually all it takes to move them to oil (semi-transparent). I guess I am learning the downside to stripping so I need to figure it out or change my sales strategy 8)

I am actually repainting the rails a solid white which is a little easier.

One more question if I may...

Does 60 grit s-paper the right choice for removing the remaining paint?

[Dale 16]

So Mark what are you going to use for the floor? I don't want to be a wet blanket but if you're going semi either bid it at what you think is high and then add 40%....the small splits , knots, edges and porus end grain will create a huge labor variable to make it look good especialy with a high contrast change. If you start out doing a really great job on the first 10 feet...you're comitted to the whole floor. If you've factored this in and the client is o.k. with the price..ingore me and go for it!!

[Beth n Rod 1,279]

Mark,

This is a situation where you might try the Boost with the HD-80. The boost allows for acrylic and laytex removal. You are looking at different chems other than just a sodium hydroxide base product to break the bond of what is installed. You could also try an MEK based product.

Beth

[Aplus 525]

One more question if I may...

Does 60 grit s-paper the right choice for removing the remaining paint?

If you want to spend all day. Best bet is to go with 30-40 grit to get most off, then sand again with about 100 to lessen the scratches.

[sturgisjr 14]

We are in the exact same situation with removing 4+ layers of white latex stain/paint. We ended up needing to sand smooth with 60 grit sand paper which seems to work well. We aren't able to remove ALL of it but good enough so that when a new stain is applied, it will be smooth and you wouldnt be able to tell that there were other stains previously applied.

We have plans to start staining the end of this week and I would appreciate any feedback as to which stain to use. I use Cabot's regularly, but only the Oil decking stains (semi-solid, intermixed to semi-transparent, and solid color).

The Customer is asking for White, even on the floors (thank goodness!) and because not ALL the latex will come off, I wondered what my options and solutions would be. I am aware that an oil can not be applied over latex, even if there is 40% of it left? Or can I still use an oil? I know they have an Acrylic-based solid decking stain, but I read somewhere you should apply an oil base first? If there is something else I can use that will be durable and can be applied over 40% leftover latex, please do let us know.

We will appreciate it very much and I am sure others would too.

Thanks!

[Celeste 341]

Hey Ken,

Give me a call about that Stripex if you would - we may want to grab some up for back up.

Thanks

Celeste

[James 624]

Porter cable paint remover- Its a diisc tungston carbide- Faster than stripping.