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1st airless experience

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I stripped a cedar deck 3 weeks ago and the owner wanted a solid stain. Luckily the deck looked like crap, even after the brightener, just very inconsistant. I went out with a helper and stated to brush on Sherwin Williams Deckscapes waterborne solid in some nasty light brown color. 2 hrs into it the prissy wife comes out and was totally disgusted by the color, I said no problem you pay for my time and the new color and I'll come back...........no problem. I went and bought an airless and the 8hr brush and roll job took 2.5hrs. I hate my own guts for not buying one of these earlier. If I could have the countless hours and frustration back from all the bullcrap brushing and rolling I've done I would be a better man. There was very minimal overspray that my helper cleaned up with no problem and the finish was way better than ugly brushstrokes.

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what brand airless did you go with ?? I dont have one, but have been thinking about getting one....

we pretty much just use Ready Seal with a shurflo setup, so the airless may be a waste, but "boys and their toys".......

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I won't divulge in the brand because 98% of the people on here will laugh at me, but I bid the job@ 5 gal and it took 2 1/2 so there was no waste. If it were a spray/ semi job it would have taken 5 gal+.

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I won't divulge in the brand because 98% of the people on here will laugh at me, but I bid the job@ 5 gal and it took 2 1/2 so there was no waste. If it were a spray/ semi job it would have taken 5 gal+.

well, I guess I'd be in the 2% since I dont even own one....... when I do get one, I'm sure not going to spend $1,000 on one that I may or may not use much.....I'd just like one to paint my own darn stuff.

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I thought i would help ya out and add your pic to your post.

Hope ya didn't mind :cool:

I had to make it smaller in Photoshop for it to post.

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We use a Magnum sprayer for our overheads that we do. Home Depot carries them.

Carlos, Do you mean if your sealing the underside of an elevated deck over a patio or something? If so, what do you do for the rest of it, roll and brush?

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The Wagner Power Stainer works fine. I used one for awhile until I got the hang of spraying. The only disadvantage to using it is you have to keep filling the little reserve. Most guys can easily overcome that. These things are like $50 at Walmart or Home Cheapo. It is a good way to see if you like the results before invest in an HVLP or airless.

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Just remember there are different kinds of sprayers. Jamie, if you don't post what you got, how can we help you to understand what you can and possibly can't use the tool for?

We have both HVLP sprayers ( Decker 5er) that we use for oils, and we have a paint sprayers we use for solids ( don't remember the brand, but it is a monster and a whole lot more PSI). Point is, there are some things you can use in one but not the other.

Come on...share...you might learn even more. :groovy:

Beth

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Tropical,

This is the type of overheads that we do. This is done more in the new construction vs. older homes. We build it from the ground up. Prior to setting it on the concrete we stain each piece with the Magnum. Takes us about 30-45 minutes to stain.

attachment.php?attachmentid=1510&stc=1&thumb=1

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It's actually the Wagner paint crew, it's about $200 at Lowe's, holds 2 gal in the hopper and has a professional aluminum spray gun. I didn't want to spend big bucks on my first airless and not like it, but I love this thing. It claims to spray all oil base so I'm going to try it on a semi job tomorrow.

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Did it tell you what PSI it is rated at? Reason I bring it up, is that the higher PSI you get more atomization, and your oils don't like a super high PSI. That's why most use an HVLP sprayer for oils... Are you under 300 PSI on that unit? If you are, you are good to go! :)

Beth

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Tropical,

This is the type of overheads that we do. This is done more in the new construction vs. older homes. We build it from the ground up. Prior to setting it on the concrete we stain each piece with the Magnum. Takes us about 30-45 minutes to stain.

attachment.php?attachmentid=1510&stc=1&thumb=1

carlos, outstanding !!! the reason I asked was I despise sealing the underside of anything...even spraying with a shurflo with the pressure reduced and a cone tip cranked all the way in (to produce more of a mist)........after reading about and seeing how others are using an airless in certain situations may allow me to not hate doing the undersides anymore.....

p.s. that pic is great.....did you guys do that sweet patio too ?

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Very cool Newlook, do you sub all of those trades, or are you a jack of all trades?? Is there money in the concrete stamping?? I've heard that is serious $.

Regarding airless, don't let your desire to look cool and buy fun toys force you to spend 1,2 or 3K on an airless setup you don't need. Me?? I have $300 Wagner, 7/8hp, .6gpm machines, work fine, and you need nothing else. You'll probably only use it 10hrs a week throughout the year, so there is no need to buy a big hog. Keep them clean, and they'll last forever (almost). I NEVER use a shurflo to stain with, and I cannot see how you guys can either, but hey, whatever works. For me, they are a clean-up nightmare. I've used them for RS with success, but cannot imagine using one for a heavier stain, like SRD or something. I use an airless for everything, unless I am brushing. What Beth says regarding atomization, i've had no issues with. Use at a lower psi, and I've noticed no difference in durability of a brushed vs. sprayed deck. I've found that if staining with say, SRD, a wet-on-wet of doing 5 boards, back-brushing, and misting again keeps from the knot areas appearing lighter, and creates an even finish. SRD is still a pain in my opinion though. Think about this--I bought a used airless from Sunbrite once......Cambell Hausfeld, probably a $300 sprayer. Just don't think it pays to buy a Rolls Royce sprayer for as little as we use them, compared to a painter. Spend the extra money on tips (the right tip makes all the difference) and different extension poles (also a life-saver). Anyone has tip Q's let me know, the one thing I feel i've got down to a science.

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Jon,

He said he can't lower his PSI on his airless. At 2800 PSI, I don't think he will have success spraying an oil, do you?

Jamie, can you get a larger tip for it? You can reduce the PSI at the orafice. Otherwise the concern is that spraying at that PSI the product heats up too much and can begin to cure, which means it won't penetrate as well, etc...

If it were us, we would rather put the SRD thru a pump up, than a non-adjustable 2800 PSI machine. Given our druthers, the Decker 5'er, HVLP rocks, and sprays SRD really well at about 150 PSI.

Beth

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How do you avoid over-application Beth?? That is my issue with the low pressure--too much product coming out. Regarding 2800psi.....personally, i'd do that as opposed to low pressure, just my preference. As you said, might have so issues with it drying too fast if hot and sunny....ever use much waterbase product?? Talk about drying fast when spraying!! High psi with that, and it'll be dry before it hits the wood. I spray SRD all the time with a 209 tip, pressure about half-way around (don't know how much that is), works fine for me. Problem I'd have w/ your protocol, is the stain getting on the floor when spraying the rails, and SRD dries beyond re-coatability within minutes, so I assume you guys cover up the floor when spraying rails??

When you say HVLP, are you referring to a shurflo system, or a true HVLP power setup, like you'd use for automotive painting?? I can see how that would be superior to airless, but I'd think time consuming. What about it??

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Ah... :)

Well, when I say HVLP I mean a 112 series. Goes up to 300 PSI. Rod is pretty fast withthe wand. If you spray too slow, yeah you're gonna get alot of product. Also it will depend on the age of the wood. On a dry PT deck, you can hit it two or three times before you have to pad off. If I am out working with Rod, he will spray, I'll pad behind him. If any hits the floor, you fan out and when you do your floor, apply lighter as you move in tothat area near the rails to avoid a lap mark. Also we are using a spray shield, which helps to keep it off the floor. Angle is important too.

We are not wild about water based products. Prefer oils any day. Just our preference.

And you are right, SRD sets up real fast.

Beth :groovy3:

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Jon,

All the work in the pic falls under our company ~ no subcontracting on our concrete or landscaping work. The only time we would consider subcontracting would be for finishers only and only if the job went beyond a 25 yard pour for one day.

Is there money in stamped concrete....yes there is. If you do good work you can make alot of money. If the work is not so great...well...you phone will not be ringing off the hook :)

We have 9 guys working with the company. 6 of them are totally dedicated to concrete/landscaping. The remaining 3 focus in on the power washing and painting (yes we paint homes)

I do not personally do the concrete/landscaping design ~ that is for the expertise of my partner (16 years under his belt and counting). I personally do the power washing and supervise the painting.

Are we busy...yes. Concrete/Landscaping is booked through September. We do power wash maintenance monthly for a variety of restraunts, strip malls and fleet wash. We average about 2-3 new residential power washes per week and that does not include our existing data base of past customer that we service every year. Ontop of that we also work with Real Estate agents to promote curb appeal for houses that are going on the market for sale.

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