X jet VS .0040

[Kory 14]

Alright I want to know more about this x jet. Why is it so special I see everyone post how they use it. I want to know what it does other than shot 20-30 feet. Can you adjust the fan or do anything special? I have a .0040 tip I bought at a local shop for $15 bucks It shoots 30-40 foot 0 degrees & pulls fine downstream. I'm tring to justify spending the $$$.

[Jeff 232]

If your happy downstreaming and get great range you might want to stay with it. Xjet you can get higher concentration of chem. The M5 Xjet has an adjustable fan, which is very helpful and I can pump alot of chem & water out of it. The major draw back of Xjet is you have to carry chem with you in a 5 or on a 2 wheeler with a 15 gallon drum, you get used to it.

I love the Xjet it make me a lot of money

[mas3372 14]

I tried to downstream but spent so much time putting chem on and not to mention it drives me crazy waiting for them chem to travel 200 feet then when you stop drawing you need to wait for the clear water. I love the M5 X jet and don't mind carrying a bucket. I use a 5 gallon bucket with a snap on lid. Put a hole in the middle of the lid and put a zip tie around the hose before the lid inside and on the outside so the hose dosn't slide at all. just enough hose in the bucket to reach bottome and I just carry the bucket and put it in front of me and it takes just a minute or so to drench a building side in chem. Brush the gutters while I wait. Then rinse from below the gutters down and then rinse one more time starting with the gutters and down.

If you like downstreaming thats great. But what I look at is I have not seen one person say they were not happy with a x-jet. if only they were cheaper.

[dk34 14]

Cheaper? They are about $150. I've read on this board that the average charge on a house wash comes to about $50 to $75 per hour. How much time and chemical is wasted waiting for the cleaner to go thru the line, how much time is wasted wating for the line to clear, how much quicker does the job go when you can apply the cleaner at a stronger concentration?

I can usually have the x-jet pay for itself in a couple days. Pricing for house washing hasn't changed much in the 20 years that I have been in the business. But the methods(x-jet & turbo nozzle), chemicals, and equipment improvements have tremendously shortened the time it takes to complete a job, thus more $ per hour. If you have enough work lined up, make the investment, do 40 hours of work in 30, and spend some of the extra time with your wife or kids, or on the golf course. I prefer to work smart. After 20 years, it's not worth working hard.

[CCPC 26]

Downstreaming is faster when you've got the right tips and other equipment.

[PressurePros 248]

It's all what you like. Like I have mentioned. I have done both. X-Jet is overkill for housewashes and it does not shoot high enough. It also give killer overspray in windy weather. It has its applicatons but it has its downfalls. It can also damahe aluminum siding and can have priming issues. There are times when chemical continues to flow from X-jet when you lay down the wand. When I shut my wand off, everything stops. No priming issues. I use one 5 gallon pail of housewash mix for a decent sized house (and I saturate every square inch) I also have less issue with killing plant life because the housewash mix I am using is synergistic and overall sodium hypochlorite ratio at the house is low.

[Dan Stapleton 14]

I agree with Lance on the speed of downstreaming and with Ken on chemical strength overkill when using an x-jet on average housewashes.

Maybe that is why so many have problems with windows and plants.

Dan Stapleton

All Clean Pro Wash

Tavares Fl.

352-343-2811

[Jeff 232]

I agree with Lance on the speed of downstreaming and with Ken on chemical strength overkill when using an x-jet on average housewashes.

Maybe that is why so many have problems with windows and plants.

There is a lot of overspray I guess, but Ive only had problems with plants a couple times in a few years and windows once and that was on a 4 story building with a lot of wind. Ive done well over 1000+ homes in the past few years plus roofs, decksetc with the Xjet. You just have to know how to use it as with any other kind of tool, a quick wetting of plants & windows will save you any problems. I do tons of complexes 2, 3, &4 story condo anywhere from 2 -48 buildings and many have a lot of mold & mildew buildup. with the xjet I can get the chem I need and fly through these complexes.

Im not saying xjetting is better I just dont know, but with the amount of complexes we do, Im staying with what Im used to. Wet & rinse & your OK

JL

[Dan Stapleton 14]

That's cool Jeff, I personally use the x-jet when needed for the chem strength and downstream the rest. Much less hassle for me.

Dan Stapleton

All Clean Pro Wash

Tavares Fl.

352-343-2811

[ken wiggins 14]

If I only had 3 extras for my machine, it would be a surface cleaner, a turbo nozzle and a X-Jet. LOL

[Barry M 73]

I agree with Lance on the speed of downstreaming and with Ken on chemical strength overkill when using an x-jet on average housewashes.

Maybe that is why so many have problems with windows and plants.

I don't understand the chem strength overkill thing, you could just mix up a weaker batch before xjetting or use a proportioner. I really need to see one of you guys downstream in person so I could understand. I fan out my xjet to wet down plants and then adjust it again to wet windows, open valve on the chem line, apply chems to the big side of a two story home in less than a minute, turn valve on chem line off, fan out xjet to wet plants again while chems are dwelling, then adjust nozzle and start rinsing....DONE. How could downstreaming be any faster than that?

[PressurePros 248]

four gallons of 12%, one gallon of house wash, have employee turn on downstreamer, spray two sides, have employee turn off downstreamer and then scrub gutters, rinse, repeat for other two sides. Roll up hoses.

No mixing extra chemical..the amount I applied with X-Jet always required proportioners because I put 5 gallons of cleaner on per side so that was four buckets.

No dragging buckets which are heavy when full, cumbersome and can spill. Customer sees no buckets of chemicals nor does he get burned grass where chem spilled.

The most important thing for me is not speed. Its not chemical amounts. It's height and the M5 does not hold a candle to a proper nozzle.

Like I mentioned, whatever works for you is cool. Same results (I'm assuming)

[CCPC 26]

I think the problem could partly be due to geographic locations. From some of the pictures I've seen of the average kind of houses up North, The style, in general, is quite different than what we have around here.

From what I've seen, the houses up north tend to be much taller than the average houses around here, as well as much more simple in shape. Meaning like a tall box with a roof on it. Houses like that would allow almost total access from ground level.

The houses around here can be quite intricate, most have screen enclosures, and parts of the house that can't be cleaned or reached without climbing on the roof, or over a balcony and that just can't be done with an X-jet. This was one of the main reasons I went back to down-streaming as my 1st choice for cleaning exteriors. I still use the x-jet, for some applications, but, when it comes to house washing, it's just not as convenient in most situations for the kind of houses I'm cleaning.

[Dan Stapleton 14]

Barry,

If you weaken your mix you would have to have several batches placed around the house. If you downstreamed, you would have one batch at your vehicle, you would only be trailing one hose, rinsing one line etc.

I posted to help the newcomers or those unsure of different techniques . The x-jet is a useful tool but not neccessary all of the time. I think a lot of the more experienced pro's feel the same. The key is a good downstream injector, and a good housewash mix used at the proper ratio.

Dan Stapleton

All Clean Pro Wash

352-343-2811

[Barry M 73]

Like I said half my problem is a lack of understanding. I that I like to stir the pot. Anyway I've never downstreamed so I'm not knocking it. And actually Lance there are a lot of intricate parts of houses around here that I have trouble reaching without getting on the roof especially when it's windy. Ive had a few walkout basements in back of houses that makes them 3 story that have given me fits. I'm not saying the xjet is the number one do all tool, it's all I know. I am interested in learning about downstreaming if it's going to help me out. A downstreamer came with my unit but I never touched it. Would it work or do I need to buy a special one? What nozzle would I use with a 4gpm 3500psi? Do you use a dual wand or something else? If you kindly tell me what I need, I'll get the stuff and play around with it, I'm sick of not knowing, I want to try it myself.

[Dan Stapleton 14]

Barry,

Feel free to call me. In spite of my just joining this board I've had my business for 11 yrs. I could give you some useful info and have you set up with a five minute call. You could call me between 12-12:30 eastern time or tommorrow.

Dan Stapleton

All Clean Pro Wash

Tavares Fl

352-343-2811

[Dan Stapleton 14]

For those interested in downstreaming but unfamiliar, you can do it without turning the downstreamer on/off. Ken mentioned that and my guess is that he likes to rinse with real low pressure(soap tip or similiar orifice size). In that case you would need to shut the injector off. But you can rinse with a relatively low pressure tip without having to turn on/off. Find out what psi you stop drawing soap and go from there. That way your only trip back to your equipment is when you are done!

Ken's second paragraph is true and listed are some of the same reason's why I prefer downstreaming most of the time. Hope this helps.

Dan Stapleton

All Clean Pro Wash

Tavares, Fl.

352-343-2811

[Dan Stapleton 14]

Barry from Midwest,

Or don't. Your welcome.

Dan Stapleton

All Clean Pro Wash

Tavares Fl.

352-343-2811

[PressurePros 248]

For those interested in downstreaming but unfamiliar, you can do it without turning the downstreamer on/off. Ken mentioned that and my guess is that he likes to rinse with real low pressure(soap tip or similiar orifice size). In that case you would need to shut the injector off. But you can rinse with a relatively low pressure tip without having to turn on/off. Find out what psi you stop drawing soap and go from there. That way your only trip back to your equipment is when you are done!

Ken's second paragraph is true and listed are some of the same reason's why I prefer downstreaming most of the time. Hope this helps.

Dan Stapleton

All Clean Pro Wash

Tavares, Fl.

352-343-2811

Definitely a valid sugestion. You could probably go with a number 18 or maybe a 20 orifice on a 5.5 gpm machine and have the DS'er disengage (so to speak)

I use the same tip to apply chem and rinse the heights but next time I am at the parts supply house I am going to pick up a larger 0 degree. Dan what size do you use?

[CCPC 26]

I'm a big proponent to turning the ball valve in my downstream line so I can rinse certain areas with lower pressure i.e. landscape, windows, delicate surfaces, etc., but, yes, if one doesn't want to have to turn off the downstreamer you can shut off the pull with a smaller orifice tip.

I use a 5.5 gpm machine, and my downstreamer stops pulling with around a #15-20 orifice. I usually apply my chems with either a regular soap tip, 0540, 0030 - 0050, or a 1540. I most commonly rinse with 9510, 8010, 8020, 6515, 0515, 0012, 0015, 0020, or 0030.

[Dan Stapleton 14]

Hey Ken,

4.5 gpm, For rinsing up high I usually use a 0 degree size 10 orifice which at the tip with 200 ft. of hose is about 1100-1200 psi. It is streamlined but as it reaches the surface has enough width to cover some area, Is soft enough to prevent damage but strong enough to release webs and debri that soap hasn't completely loosened. I prefer the spraying systems quick connect's for their shape (round) plus they make an I-meg that is more impact resistant. Check out Dultmeier. Good Prices and selection.

Dan Stapleton

All Clean Pro Wash

Tavares, Fl.

352-343-2811

[Dan Stapleton 14]

Ken,

I re-read your post and think you meant smaller orifice. Right? I soap up high with a 0 or 15 degree size 30 or 40 (usually) and rinse as stated. As for windows, plants etc. I just take a few steps back with a 2510 or 4010.

Dan Stapleton

All Clean Pro Wash

Tavares Fl

352-343-2811

[PressurePros 248]

Yes, Dan, I did mean smaller orifice. Thanks for the good info.

[Dan Stapleton 14]

No problemo Ken, hope it's helpful.

Check my latest rant on lowballers in the clubhouse. Sure would like to see some of your presentation material etc.

Dan Stapleton

All Clean Pro Wash

Tavares Fl

352-343-2811

[MMI Enterprises 289]

Older thread but seems to have some invaluable info if I can make sense of it...

My machine is 3k@5gpm (think it a General 4.8 gpm pump really though) with my regular hand wand I have the single tube with dual tips in a valve gizmo at the tip end that I do a little shake/flip to pick between the low and high 1/4 meg threaded tips (not quik connect). Never tried nozzles in it for high soaping or high rinsing but it allows me to leave downstreamer on if I want to. This been getting used mainly for flat work only.

Then for single story and eaves I have a 8' wand but dislike it plenty. Is a bear to use due to both the angled 1' extension towards the end and I think it has too much pressure maybe. The tip in it now is a Spray Sytems Wash Jet cs55 (?that sound right?) and it will get up maybe 15' or so before atomizing spray. I consinder it almost useless and can do almost same with hand wand. Another tip (forget what it was) gave only straight pencil jet out to maybe 30' and feared using it. Didn't want to etch pencil marks allover someones wall or eaves.

What two nozzle specs would likely work in my hand wand to get me 25+ feet up with one being for downstreaming and the other for rinse?. And should I be looking for a few inch wide round pattern at the point I hit the wall?...

Guess I really want to know if the xjet will create whatever fan or cone size I am after at various distances and yet still draw chemical..

Any ideas or caculations would be greatly appeciated .. :)

ps. Do quik connect tips have smoother/more accurate flow then the threaded type tips? seems other folks tips or wand combo put out a way sharper or smoother flow to me.